COVET: Interview with Tara St. James

Canadians are really cool, and not just from the temperature up there. Using soybean rayon, organic cotton, bamboo, as well as natural dyes and processes, Tara St. James – the mastermind behind Covet, has created quite a buzz around herself – and it’s no surprise, Covet really is sailing into uncharted territory by making sustainable clothes that are actually really cool. I can count on my hands how many other designers are doing what I call SSA; Sustainability, Social Justice, and Animal Advocacy. RealizingTara St. James this crucial interconnection is a rare feat that only a few industry visionaries seem to be able to proffer.

Tara St . James has been a vegetarian and environmentalist for over a decade, and is an industry leader in what she refers to as “hand crafted redemption”. The spring 2008 collection from Covet is almost totally vegan, as compared to the Fall lines, which tend to be very heavily wool and cashmere based – and while we disagree on the use of wool and silk, Tara is a beacon of light in the dark, jagged landscape of the fashion industry.

Covet s2008

Covet has been featured in Elle, Lucky, MR, WWD, IOU, and Sportswear International, and showcased at events such as Toronto’s sold-out Sustainable Style World Wildlife Fund fund-raiser. Ms. James’ endeavor is gaining momentum, and I got a chance to interview her recently to find out about her vision, and what’s going on out in the trenches of sustainable fashion’s uprising. Here is the interview:

DB: How did you get into fashion, and what led up to the creation of Covet?
TSJ: I’ve been working in the industry for about 10 years, mainly designing for denim brands.

DB: What were your inspirations for the spring 2008 menswear collection?
TSJ: I wanted to reference the casual yet classy clothing of the 1950s, before baggy jeans and tees were a staple.

Covet s2008

DB: When did you become an environmentalist, and describe the process of actualizing that in your work – including difficulties. Did you meet resistance? Do you have plans to use organics?
TSJ: I don’t know if there was a specific turning point which made me ‘an environmentalist’. Once I left school and started my career in fashion, and as I grew older and more responsible for my actions and my lifestyle, I also became aware of the circumstances these entailed. Information about the destruction of the earth was abundant, so all I did was put it into practice.

Covet s2008

DB: You seem to be at the forefront of a shake-up in the fashion industry where people are actually demanding accountability for the ways in which their products are made – from labor to raw materials. What’s happening out there?
TSJ: Firstly, thank you for the compliment. ‘Going green’ has become very trendy over the past two years or so and to be honest I don’t mind one bit. Whether consumers are buying eco-friendly products because it’s trendy or because they feel a sense of accountability towards the environment, the same end result ensues… eco products are slowly becoming the norm in every day use and people are educating themselves about the repercussions our choices have on our future.
As for labor and raw materials, it’s becoming increasingly easier to find resources both overseas and domestically. Factories in India and China are performing complete overhauls in their methods and products in order to offer labour and eco-friendly products.

Covet s2008

DB: The fabrics you use are not common in mainstream fashion – from soybean rayon to bamboo cotton. How are these products made, why are they so great, and how come everyone isn’t using them? What other exciting processes and materials are on your radar for the future?
TSJ: So many beautiful fabrics, so little time! I currently use organic cotton for all my knits, bamboo, modal, soybean blends, tencel and silk.
As for the future, I’m working with an organic merino wool quality that is beautiful. I’m also looking into ingeo (a corn-based yarn), seacell (a version of tencel mixed with seaweed), recycled polyester (made with old plastic bottles), and a milk-based yarn. All very interesting.

DB: Many of my readers are animal advocates. Thank you for not using any fur or leather! Where do you stand concerning the fur and skins trades, and animal advocacy in general?
TSJ: I’ve been a vegetarian since I was 14 years old. I refuse to buy or wear fur, but haven’t quite kicked the leather habit (a girl needs her shoes after all!). Luckily companies like Stella McCartney and Natalie Portman for Te Casan are starting to offer beautiful vegetarian shoes that may help me kick that nasty habit. I also buy vintage leather shoes instead of new whenever possible.

Covet s2008

DB: Is ‘cool’ being redefined in our culture? How is iconography changing, or is it not?
TSJ: The world has become a very fast-paced place in which to live. Trends no longer last 2 to 3 seasons. They don’t even last one season, for that matter. The industry is in such a rush to catch up to itself that I think the consumer is looking for a way to stand out, not only in a fashionable way but by wearing their personal philosophies as brands, the way we used to wear band t-shirts or sports jerseys. Now that ‘eco’ is a trend, consumers want others to know they make specific ethical choices when purchasing goods (without wanting a huge recycle logo on their chest)

DB: What other designers do you have your eye on, and who should we be looking out for?
TSJ: For menswear I’ve always been a fan of Alexander Herchcovitch, Henrik Vibskov, Marc Jacobs. The world of mens eco-fashion needs to start moving away from organic cotton jeans and tees. I look forward to the day when a sustainable tuxedo walks down the red carpet at the oscars.

DB: What album are you listening to the most right now? What are you reading?
TSJ: I am currently reading The Master and Margarita by Bulgakov and listening to Cut Copy, DJ Krames and MIA.

Covet s2008

DB: What can we expect to see from Covet in the coming year or two?
TSJ: I plan to expand the woven organics part of the line (shirts, pants, jackets, etc…) I have been using linens and wools as standard issue, but I want to introduce organic cottons and hemp blends in future collections. Hemp has come a long way.

DB: Anything else you want to say to these Discerning Brutes?
TSJ: Thanks for reading!

To find out where to get covet clothing, click HERE the click on ’shopping’.

Lazy Activism

Changing the world is an overwhelming undertaking! If you shy away from the idea of being a full-time activist, or need immediate satisfaction, here are a few super-easy ideas you can do from your computer that take less than 5 minutes.

“If I had a penny for every time you seached something on google….”

Use this Search engine instead of regular Google. Ethicle is a Ethiclesearch-engine powered by Google. Every single time you search for something, 1¢ is dontated to the charity you choose from the site. Mine goes to greenpeace and the WWF. This is a no brainer, you don’t even have to think about it. Simply change your computer’s homepage to Ethicle, and go about your usual business.

amnesty

Amnesty International has a page called “Take Action Online” which provides easy ways to get involved and help out with human rights issues around the world. Only a few clicks away.

Farm Sanctuary

Farm Sanctuary has a “Get Involved” page where you can click on action alerts to help end farm animal abuse likePink Buck banning Foie Gras production in New York State. PETA also has an action center with new action alerts updated daily, like Pink’s campaign to end Horse Drawn Carriages in New York City.

A great resource for more easy ways to get involved in environmentalism, animal advocacy, and social justice is THE LAZY ACTIVIST.

Blake Hamster

Blake Hamster

When a company views ecology and social responsibility as paramount – it gets a Discerning Brute’s attention. When that same company acts as a framework for designers, artists, marketers, journalists, authors and musicians from all over the world to collaborate, it becomes even more intriguing.

Prohibition

The most recent collection by Blake Hamster pragmatically entitled “001″, features menswear made from 100% organic cotton. Showcasing the cut designs of Ulla van den Heuvel & Susan Bauer and the artwork of Hamansutra, Andreas Döhring aka, Beagle, Jeroen Jongeleen aka Influenza, Catriona Shaw aka Miss le Bomb, Stephan Doesinger, and Diana Keller & Damir Doma . Photographers of the collection include Michael Heilgemeir, Lisa Miletic, Michael McKee, and Dieter Mayr Martin Fengel.

 

dance

It is their aim to experiment with different products, from shirts to housewares, utilizing various production processes and distribution models while upholding a set of aesthetic and ethic ground rules. The fabric of the mens shirts consists of 100 % organic, eco-friendly cotton. Even the dying process of the fabric took place in accordance with the guidelines of the International Association of Natural Textile Industry. The shirts are produced sweatshop free and Blake Hamster ensures fair working conditions for everybody involved in the process.

Stains
The shirts are sewn in Italy by the renowned Confezioni Barbon. Barbon has been manufacturing clothing for over 40 years. They produce for Jil Sander, Escada, Chanel, Etro, Marithè Francois Girbaud, Theatre de la Mode, Marni, Gaetano Navarra, Calvin Klein, Pollini, Valentino, Piazza Sempione, Victor Victoria, and Hilton. Barbon’s production division is made up of a high qualified staff able to realize and produce items of a high quality standard.
Jump

At around $100 each, they are not cheap! But keep in mind they are limited to 50 of each style, so you are basically buying art. If you are interested in purchasing any of their products, SHOP HERE.

Turk + Taylor

Turk + Taylor
Mark Lee Morris and Andrew Soernsen started off making organic, hand-dyed Tee-shirts, and have since expanded their line to include tailored pieces. All of their styles are limited-edition, hand-numbered and hail from the West Coast.
TTMenswear
tee
Their tees are often retro-inspired, and bold colored. The tailored pieces are well-made, simple, basics with a fitted shape. If you cannot find what you are looking for through one of their retailers, then Mark and Andrew accept orders via email and ship at no extra cost.
DB’s Etiquette Recommendation: Turk + Taylor do use silk. It’s rare to only have something like silk to complain of about a designer. The veggie-fashion goddess herself, Stella McCartney uses silk and wool. I debated not saying anything at all, but I’m confident that worms matter. They have nervous systems and brains…and getting boiled alive probably doesn’t feel nice – especially for the sake of lining. Find out how most silk is made HERE and you decide.

Total Recall

Beef?

An historical event has transpired – for the first time ever, undercover footage recorded by a Humane Society investigator has grabbed headlines nationwide. This has resulted in the largest recall of beef in US history – 143 million pounds, and has exposed horrible cruelties that, while commonplace, were shocking and new to anyone who has never seen the underbelly of factory farming. Trying to make sense of them is another story.The coverage that this undercover video-clip received nationwide, and the beef recall itself, were both watersheds. If you haven’t seen the clip, please watch below:

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmWNms-WhIc&feature=related]

For more of the footage click HERE

Meat-eating has always been associated with manliness in our culture. Traditionally, the pHunterredatory nature of hunting required physical strength, stamina, tool-making, and often hours to days of tracking herds. Then there was the kill; the bloody and exhausting act of taking down large animals, cutting them up and bringing them home. Many anthropologists and primatologists argue that meat was a pivotal way to exert social control in the form of currency due to its desirability. While women may have collected most gatherer-hunter protein sources, we should not ignore the fact that men were able to use meat for their own selfish and manipulative political ends. It’s no surprise then, that thousands of years later, most men still identify with this nearly-universal symbol of masculine social and political power, though they rarely grasp why. What does this beef recall and the surrounding events say about us if real men eat meat?You Like Meat

Vegetarianism is often portrayed as weak, emasculating, and undesirable, although more and more men are realizing that a vegetable-based diet is healthier and better for the earth, and that the reality of their bond with meat is now relatively invalid. While meat is rarely necessary for survival in modern times, most advertising geared toward mainstream men still appeals to his hunter roots – to his very primal, instinctual brain. If the disconnect here is not apparent with the merciless cruelty shown in the video above, it might bring clarity to know that this is by no means an isolated incident. This is something that is commonplace from chicken farms to circuses to laboratories. These sweeping abuses of animals showcases a crippling and epidemic -sized inability to empathize, and a desire to play out those primal tendencies to control something so politically defining and powerful.

[youtube=http://youtube.com/watch?v=OftBZJ8w2g4]

On farms worldwide, untold cruelties are trespassed. The video shows Hallmark Meat Packing Co. workers administering repeated electricDowned Cow shocks to downed cows — animals that are too sick, weak or otherwise unable to stand on their own. Workers are seen kicking cows, jabbing them near their eyes, ramming them with a forklift and shooting high-intensity water up their noses in an effort to force them to their feet for slaughter.Typically, the media shies away from showing footage of animal cruelty, despite the frequency of incidents like these in many industries, because it is believed that viewers will change the channel. However, if you tuned into your local news almost anywhere in the country in the last few days, it was impossible to miss it as news stations everywhere spent several minutes on this headlining story, shocking viewers – and raising many questions. The president of HMP published this statement on the meat company’s website.

“…Words cannot accurately express how shocked and horrified I was at the depictions contained on the video that was taken by an individual who worked at our facility from October 3 thru November 14, 2007. We have taken swift action regarding the two employees identified on the video and have already implemented aggressive measures to ensure all employees follow our humane handling policies and procedures. We are also cooperating with the USDA investigators on the allegations of inhumane handling treatment which is a serious breech of our company’s policies and training... ” – Steve Mendell, President Westland Meat Co. Hallmark Meat Packing

Go VegThis statement is an expected cliché and completely fails to elucidate the incident. In an industry where living, feeling, animals are reduced to mere economic units, it is no surprise that profit-seeking businesses end up treating animals in this way. The huge demand for meat results in an immense pressure to raise, exploit, and kill animals in such massive quantities that no dream of the resources required to produce “humane meat” could ever exist to satisfy the grotesque amount of meat consumption that occurs in the US. In addition, this immense demand requires assembly line killing, and any extra care taken or ‘downer’ incidentals means profit-loss. It’s an out-and-out contradiction to claim that any meat-production facility could sustain ‘humane’ policies. Less torturous, maybe, but never humane.

I am an AnimalExpect to see many, many more videos like this reaching the mainstream media, now that the barrier has been broken. Organizations like HSUS, PETA, and Farm Sanctuary continually send undercover investigators to work at these facilities and expose horrible cruelties. Now it seems many more investigations, like the Butterball Turkey Investigation showcased in the HBO documentary “I Am An Animal” will reach more viewers.

The Humane Society says the video was shot last year by an undercover investigator . Investigators like these, who wear a hidden camera under their clothes and work at the facilities, risk their safety and deserve our praise.

If you want to get involved, but need some motivation, visit GoVeg.com, and watch ‘Earthlings’ starring the Discerning Brute, Joaquin Phoenix:

[googlevideo=http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-1282796533661048967]