Rewriting the Conversation

Missing the Mark
by D. R. Hildebrand

In the December 10th issue of The New Yorker, Elizabeth Kolbert, a staff writer for the magazine, discusses an observation by the British economist Arthur Pigou that “private investments often impose costs on other people.”  As an example of this, Kolbert describes a drunk man stumbling out of a bar (a private investment) and an officer who then arrests him (the taxpayers’ burden).  She goes on to consider a much greater private investment, and a much greater public expense: pollution and a carbon tax.  “Such a tax would be imposed not just on gasoline,” Kolbert writes, “but on fossil fuels—from the coal used to generate electricity to the diesel used to run tractors—so it would affect the price of nearly everything, including food and manufactured goods.”

The New Yorker often publishes commentaries and articles that address global warming.  Oddly, it nearly as often publishes stories glorifying animal agriculture and the consumption of meat.  Just one week before Kolbert’s piece on Pigou and the rationale for carbon taxing, the magazine ran its annual Food Issue.  These are the topics it covered:

  • • Wolvesmouth, a young, underground restaurateur in Los Angeles who serves anything from rabbit to roasted pig’s head
  • • Eating out in Oaxaca, Mexico, with ramblings on pork, beef, grasshoppers, duck adobo, dried maguey worms, and double-boiled deer penis
  • • Trout, with the author stating, “I had never before felt vegetarian scruples, yet they were aroused by the butchering of a creature with such clear eyes, so recently alive and blissful in its element.  I asked my prey for forgiveness.”
  • • The story of a boy returning to the farm in Pakistan where he was raised, and, at the age of eight, received his first gun, which the author explains, “finally put me on the way to hunting game—deer in the nearby desert, duck on the ponds . . .”
  • • Sausage-making
  • • The perfect Manhattan
  • • Parisian bread, including discussions on salted butter, soft-boiled eggs, and melted cheese
  • • A bachelor’s repertoire of cheeseburgers, fries, and Lean Cuisine glazed-chicken dinners
  • • An Israeli chef who lives in London and prepares a medley of grains and vegetables, and just as many dead animals
  • • Bear-skinning in Wyoming

New Yorker Dec 3_10

Politically, The New Yorker is unabashedly liberal.  Culturally, however, it is esoteric and elitist and it takes pride in civilizing modern man’s return to savagery, even while going out of its way to inspect any other possible cause of environmental devastation.  This Al Gore-like enthusiasm for changing light bulbs and recycling newspapers, while categorically ignoring the disaster that led to one’s dinner, appears to be a growing trend—never mind the inconsistencies.

We need to rewrite the conversation.  We need to highlight not what matters to us individually, be it animal suffering or the like, but what will get the greatest number of people to listen.  Readers of The New Yorker already understand Pigou’s hypothesis and already comprehend Kolbert’s concern: they see the effects of global warming and the dollar signs connected to it.  This means something to them, so they listen.  Yet what do suffering animals mean to them?

Omnivorous friends of mine often create distinctions between things they consider “rational” and things they consider “emotional.”  It is rational, they say, to end human suffering; it is emotional, however, to attempt the same for animals.  It is rational to respond to starvation, war, disease, global warming, “the stuff that actually matters,” but it is emotional to even ponder the animals who live and die each day in equally tragic misery.  Just recognizing the fact that humans inflict so much pain on so many creatures for so little reason is an emotional strain few wish to endure, so they dismiss it as “irrational” and carry on.

Yet we can draw their attention back, and we can do so without compromising our objectives.  When we hear people talking, for example, about a lack of clean drinking water, vast starvation, the wars now waged over finite resources, we should mention that 50% of clean water and 80% of grains in the U.S. are given to animals destined to be slaughtered, and we should ask, casually, which might feed more people: the flesh of a single being or the total lifetime of water and food she consumes?  And when we hear conjecture over the origins of heart disease, cancer, diabetes, and a host of other preventable illnesses, we should recommend books like The China Study and films such as Forks Over Knives that articulate the benefits of a whole-foods, Water Pollutionplant-based diet, and we should ask, in earnest, which is the wiser: for our government to subsidize the industries that make us most sick—dairy, meat, and egg—or those that keep us well?  And when others talk about pollution and global warming, realities that are now impossible to deny, we must mention, with grace, the 35,000 miles of rivers contaminated by the urine and feces of countless animals who are fattened simply to be killed; the millions of acres of annual deforestation, solely to plant more crops for more animals for more death; the exploding quantities of methane, nitrous oxide, and carbon dioxide that the tens of billions of slaughter-bound animals emit into the atmosphere day after day, and we should ask, as innocently as possible, which might cause less destruction: consuming animals, or consuming plants?

None of this is to say we should abandon the element of animal suffering from our discussions, for it is real and it is abhorrent and there will always be someone who is moved by it.  We will, however, reach more people when we focus on the issues that matter most to them, like hunger, and disease, and natural disasters.  It we address them with Pigou’s ideas of public cost in mind we will, over time, see more responses like Kolbert’s, and come that much closer to achieving our goals.

Sold on Celery

by D. R. Hildebrand

Whenever I go food shopping I tend to pick up, ponder, and put back the same foods every time.  Most of these foods are in recipes I want to make, but are sold in quantities I will never finish—at least not before they go bad.  I get excited when I see them but then pause and picture myself weeks later combing through the refrigerator finding a pile of limp, rotten remains, and I pass.

Celery is my number one culprit.  I always intend to eat it but never actually buy it.  I don’t have a juicer, though if I did I’m still not sure I’d consume it fast enough, and even with peanut butter I’ve never liked eating it as a snack.  So I decided recently that I would tackle celery in spurts: whenever I would buy this vitamin K-rich veggie I would be prepared with a handful of dishes that included it, and I would make them in succession until every stalk was gone.

Here are a few easy recipes for anyone with a similar celery conundrum.  Modify them as needed and enjoy.  And please feel free to share your own.

Read more…

Vote YES on Prop 37

D. R. Hildebrand writes this week about one of the most crucial votes that Californians have been faced with. One that we won’t be able to watch politicians debate on television. When it comes to labeling genetically modified organisms, or GMOs, most of us are in the dark – and that’s intentional. I urge everyone in California to vote YES on Prop. 37. That YES means you are in favor of truth, clarity, and the ability to make your own decision concerning what you put in your body.

Editor, Joshua Katcher

Vote Yes on Proposition 37

by D. R. Hildebrand

Well beneath the hundreds of billions of dollars in endless presidential campaigning this election there is an equally decisive battle underway in California, which has the potential to reshape one of our most basic and prevalent industries: food.  As the eighth largest economy in the world and a chronic trend-setter for the U.S. as a whole, California’s upcoming vote on Proposition 37 asks whether or not GMOs—genetically modified organisms—should be labeled on food packages.  Ever since the initiative earned a place on the November 6th ballot, a select group of companies have been doing everything in their power to assure that Californians vote against such a plan: essentially, that they vote in favor of their own ignorance.

A genetically modified organism is any organism that has had its genetic composition adjusted by either adding to or subtracting from its original, innate DNA.  GMOs are used in anything from medical research to agriculture, with their purpose in the latter being to speed growth, increase resistance to pathogens, enhance nutrients, or any other supposed benefit.  The first food that was genetically modified and sold commercially was a delayed-ripening tomato, in 1994.  As Michael Pollan points out in a recent article in the New York Times Magazine, “Big Food” and the corporations that engineer GMOs—Monsanto, DuPont, BASF—do not trust consumers to buy their products if and when they are labeled accordingly.

This distrust is evident.  Big Food has spent $35 million in television ads attempting to persuade Californians to vote against a measure the majority support.  The Organic Consumer Association lists dozens of contributors to this campaign with Monsanto ($7 million), DuPont ($3 million), Bayer ($2 million), and Dow ($2 million) leading the charge.  Companies that own “organic” brands are fighting the labeling initiative as well.  As of August, they include:

  • •Coca-Cola, owner of Odwalla and Honest Tea, has given $1,164,400 to defeat Prop 37
  • •ConAgra, owner of Hunt’s Organic, Alexia Food, and Orville Redenbacher’s Organic, has given $1,076,700
  • •Dean Foods, owner of Silk, White Wave, and Horizon, has given $253,000
  • •General Mills, owner of Cascadian Farms and Muir Glen, has given $520,000
  • •Grocery Manufacturers Association has given $375,000
  • •Kellogg’s, owner of Kashi, Bear Naked, Wholesome & Hearty, and Morningstar Farms, has given $632,000
  • •PepsiCo, owner of Naked Juice and Tostito’s Organic, has given $1,716,300
  • •Smucker Co., owner of R.W. Knudsen and Santa Cruz Organic, has given $388,000

Vanity Fair, in 2008, published the investigation “Monsanto’s Harvest of Fear,” which exposes the company’s brutal intimidation of farmers and the nonstop legal actions it takes against them.  It also details Monsanto’s history of environmental disasters, contributions to chemical warfare, manufacturing of carcinogens and artificial hormones, ties to the government (its attorneys and board members have served on the F.D.A., the E.P.A., and the Supreme Court), hypocrisies, lies, and recent revision of its image as a selfless, worldwide agricultural savior with no other agenda but to feed the starving.  Its website is as kind and earthy as they come.

Monsanto

Neither Monsanto’s, nor any other company’s, tampering with nature has ever been proven safe.  The F.D.A. performs no independent testing of GMOs and the biotech firms prevent researchers from conducting their own tests, claiming a legal right to “protect” their patented technologies.  Meanwhile, more than 75% of processed foods in the United States contain unlabeled GMOs, including most corn and soy, much of which is fed to animals raised for human consumption, and sugar beets, which are placed in sweeteners and additives.

The right to know if one’s food has been genetically altered is as fundamental as free speech and the pursuit of happiness.  Yet nineteen states have tried, and failed, to create GMO labeling laws.  If Californians vote yes next month on Prop 37, the sheer weight of the state’s economy has led food manufacturers to agree—and dread—that it might as well be a national law.

http://marycrimmins.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/gmolabel2.jpg

The Vegan Fallacy

By D. R. Hildebrand

Not too long ago I was in LA for work.  I arrived in the evening, starving, of course, and as soon as I reached my hotel I headed across Sunset Boulevard to the closest Veggie Grill I could find.  There are no fewer than ten of these godsends on the West Coast, and along with Loving Hut they comprise the closest thing I can think of to a vegan fast-food chain.

The Sunset Boulevard location is huge, though at 9:00 at night just about every table was taken.  I ordered the Papa’s Portobello with the Soup of the Day and sat down next to an energetic group of three, twenty-something surfer guys who couldn’t stop talking about the one thing they were all eating: carrot cake.

“Dude, holy shit, this stuff rocks!”

“I know, man.  We keep telling you, it’s incredible.”

They carried on until it became apparent that two were vegan, educating their non-vegan friend in the joys of, as one said, “actually eating real food.”  I sat there with little else to do but listen and try to pace my own consumption—the Papa’s Portobello was fantastic—when one of them made a comment that caught my attention.

“Dude,” he said (to his not-yet-vegan dude friend), “it’s good and it’s good for you!”

Oh geez, I thought, the ultimate vegan fallacy.

At first I wanted to laugh.  Then I glanced at them and realized they were each ordering seconds, and in all likelihood really believed what they were telling themselves.

To be clear, I’ve never studied nutrition.  I can’t explain why it is that some foods are good for us and others are not.  In general though, I think it’s safe to say that the carrots, walnuts, coconut, and perhaps a few other ingredients in this particular delicacy fall on the healthy, beneficial side of the nutritional spectrum.  I think it’s just safe to say, however, that non-dairy cream cheese, non-dairy margarine, a cup or two of cane sugar, and any sort of oil undoubtedly do not.

It seems a number of vegans equate cruelty-free for animals with cruelty-free for themselves, forgetting—or ignoring—that what isn’t the devil isn’t consequently a saint.  This is not to say we should all eat three salads a day with nothing but whole fruit and nuts for snacks in between.  It is simply to say that we should educate ourselves about the products we most often consume, and remember to be as kind to our own bodies as we strive to be others’.

We often hear non-vegans tell us about all the foods of which we supposedly deprive ourselves.  And it is tempting to shove the delicious vegan options of those foods straight down their throats.  It’s tempting to shove them down our own as well, but we would be wise to do so in moderation.  For cake will always be cake, junk food will always be junk, and at the end of the day a treat should remain just that—a treat—not the foundation of a meal, and never the basis of one’s diet.

Meatless in Seattle

I was in Seattle for the first time last month and had the chance to explore the city’s vegan side.  From what I had always heard about this vibrant capital of the Pacific Northwest was that it was as replete with coffee shops and rain as with delicious vegan dining.  Yet even as the city teems with cruelty-free options (possibly more per capita than New York) it is just as committed to its “free-range” chicken, “grass-fed” beef, and “open-water” fish—none of which I’m convinced actually are.  For a city so adamant about the separation of trash from compost from recyclables, I imagined more of this environmentalism shining through in day-to-day dietary choices as well.  For now, we’ll just focus on the positives.

Moo Shoes has a Left Coast sister—and she sells chocolate, too.  Vegan owner, Sadaf Hussain, opened The Chocolate Shoebox two years ago in Seattle’s Phinney Ridge.  It’s twenty minutes by bus north of downtown, and surrounded by other vegan options.  The store is small but offers a wide selection of men’s and women’s shoes, accessories from belts to wallets, and chocolate.  Lots of chocolate.  Really good chocolate.  I brought back an assortment of these US-made treats for my non-vegan friends and they apparently fought over every flavor.

Highline Vegan Bar is an enormous second-floor space in Capitol Hill that caters to punk bands and the scull-and-crossbones-wearing vegans who listen to them.  It wasn’t my ideal night out, though not because of the music.  I got the Tempesto, a tempeh sandwich with pesto, avocado, and red onions, all swimming in grease.  The latter wasn’t listed on the menu, and my friends had to wade through the same soppy oil to reach their meals as well.  Eat at your own risk.

Seattle has a gem in Makini Howell.  When I ate at Plum Bistro I knew I had found the real deal.  Like many restaurants in the area, Plum’s architecture and décor is industrial-chic, with its steel and distressed wood and its massive garage-like door that slides up to the ceiling for fresh air.  Everything—and I ate a lot—was second to none.  From the spicy Cajun mac ‘n’ yease to the grilled polenta and orange fennel salad to the wild mushroom fettuccine, I was so impressed I thought I might write a letter to the restaurant.  Then I met the owner herself.

Ms. Howell, who insists she’s much older than she looks, was born and raised vegan in Tacoma, just south of Seattle.  In 1972 her parents opened the still-thriving vegan restaurant, Quickie Too, in her hometown, and went on to open Hillside Quickie, Sage Café, and Plum Bistro in Seattle.  On my last morning in town I ventured over to Sage, an itty-bitty joint with a Bob Marley vibe and by far the best sandwich I’ve ever had (the crazy Jamaican burger).  I implored the waitress to let me compliment the chef and moments later, warm and smiling, out stepped Ms. Howell.


Second from the left, Makini Howell, with her staff at Sage Bakery and Cafe
 

The incredible Crazy Jamaican Burger with a side of seasoned and stir-fried short grain brown rice

It’s not often the owner of four establishments also serves as one of its chefs, especially when preparing to open her fifth—a vegan kiosk at the Seattle Center—later this month.  Ms. Howell is clearly passionate about producing high-quality vegan fare and has set the standard very high.

A few other spots to note include In the Bowl, listed as vegetarian pan-Asian but entirely vegan and first-rate; Wayward Vegan Café for brunch, in the University District; and Cinnamon Works at Pike Place Market which offers a range of incredible vegan muffins and cookies.