Parsons University Lecture: Fashion & Animals

I gave my presentation, Fashion & Animals: Decoding and Harnessing the Dialect of Fashion Culture to Help Animals to foundation students at Parsons, The New School For Design in New York City on Thursday. I’d previously given the talk in Paris, Boston, and in NYC with John Bartlett at Jivamukti. The lecture was about 2 hrs long, and many of the students had not been exposed to information, materials or documentation concerning the many ways animals are used in the fashion world, both symbolically and literally. When shown documentation of the plight most animals face when used for their skins and hairs in the fashion industry, many students even shed a few tears, or hid their eyes.

I was accompanied during Q&A by Elle cover-girl, and PINNACLE: Reinvent The Icon spokesmodel Emily Wilson who took questions about working in the fashion industry and maintaining ethics concerning animals. Emily, like a growing number of models, is vegan and refuses any job with fur. In addition, as a Native American, Emily had a lot to say about the offensive appropriation of and popularization of fur through indigenous, traditional cultures’ aesthetics because, while the product may look the same, the process and relationship to animals is completely different.

When we emerged from the darkness into the “Solutions” section, the students were excited to hear about the developments in textiles, and the possibilities that lie ahead – from growing cellulose-based leather in kombucha cultures, to recycling plastics into ultrasuedes, and using agricultural waste like soy-bean husks to make lux knitting yarn, and I even passed around the most cutting edge faux-fur from Imposter.

Many thanks to the professors at Parsons who made this happen, as well as all the open-minded and eager students who attended and  brought so many insightful questions and comments.

 

Anntian Spring’11, Eat the Living & Animal Rescue Corps

• ANNTIAN’s Spring 2011 lookbook, inspired by the natural, ripe lushness of fruit, features bright colors,  organic, lux textures and patters, and hints of psychedelic tribalism – an ode to the future hippie in a sane world. Anttian says “Behind this is our wish to touch on the subject of how important the relationship and behavior towards nature and food and “living together” is. Anntiain strives to use sustainable materials like organic cotton.

• “Should we name them?” This was one of the first things one of the “foodies” asked before eating live lobster at 15 East for the sake of Zagat. Immediately the woman in the middle says, “No That will give them personality” and the man on the far right, “then there’ll be a whole faction of PETA people that think we’re terrible”. Eating an animal while it’s still squirming requires a serious disconnect, but even more-so, it requires a desire to be seen as controversial, edgy, experimental, brave and cool . The website challenges, “If you’re brave enough to experience it yourself, the special is $120 and feeds two.” Listening to the people in the video fumble through rationalizations for doing this is amazing. See for yourself:

This reminds me of the recent article, The Moral Crusade Against Foodies, by B. R. Myers, which is a must-read for anyone concerned with food and ethics issues.

Image credit: John Cuneo

“A true gastronome,” according to a British dining manual of the time, “is as insensible to suffering as is a conqueror.” But for the past several decades, factory farms have made meat ever cheaper and—as the excellent book The CAFO [Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations] Reader makes clear—the pain and trauma are thrown in for free. The contemporary gourmet reacts by voicing an ever-stronger preference for free-range meats from small local farms. He even claims to believe that well-treated animals taste better, though his heart isn’t really in it.


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• I love the aesthetic of the Animal Rescue Corps. It’s very effective, using a military-inspired logo and language like “serving” animals.  The real heroism of this organization is showcased in their organized,  rescue operations – and SH Headshot 4President Scotlund Haisley is certainly a Discerning Brute, with impressive and extensive experience in animal rescue, shelters, advocacy, fund-raising and legislation – even rehabilitating 11 of Michael Vick’s dogs, and working to rescue of over 1,000 animals in post-Katrina New Orleans. With a focus on Puppy Mills, Companion Animal Abuse, Animals in Agriculture, and Animals in Research, the Animal Rescue Corps is a reserve of true heroes. Why not join them?

Lincoln Center Sustainable Fashion & PINNACLE

A photog from the RightyRightyRight fashion blog and zine snapped some photos of my rad outfit sponsored by CPas & NOVACAS at Lincoln Center, yesterday. In addition to the recycled-poly, hand-tailored blazer and vest, the organic cotton shirt and pants, the recycled-poly and recycled-cotton coat, the organic denim and vegan leather bag, and the NOVACAS vegan boots – I was wearing my April77 vegan biker jacket, carrying a Matt & Nat cruelty-free bag with recycled soda-bottle ultra-suede lining, and sporting my fav vintage sunglasses.


This happened right before I went into Lincoln Center and got interviewed by Robert Verdi. I showed him the PINNACLE Mag, to which he said “I already have that“. I was wowed. Mr. Verdi, are you anti-fur yet?

Huffington Post contributor, Andy Stepanian, wrote a really impressive article on PINNACLE: Reinvent The Icon today, featuring some of the amazing photos by Anthony Two Moons and Gregory Vaughan. PLease check it out and spread the word!

Spring Motorcycle Jacket & Gitman Goes Organic

Schott NYC is certainly not known for cruelty-free fabrics, but this is their exception - a waxed cotton motorcycle jacket in khaki for spring. I certainly hope they’ll make more vegan options. $500 at Barney’s

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Also now at Barney’s is a series of Gitman organic cotton ties and shirts.

John Bartlett Plans Vegan Fashion Future

• NBC’s Nell Alk was in attendance to cover the Fashion & Animals event last night, ushering in a fashion week that is sure to be drenched in skins, pelts, hairs and other symbols of so-called “luxury”. John Bartlett, the award-winning designer and CFDA Board of Directors member, appeared as a special guest, taking questions and making some inspiring comments and announcements:

“Next time I show,” Bartlett told Niteside, “I want to show a fully vegan collection. I want to make sure there’s intention behind it. Over the past year, I have taken leather out of my collections, I will no longer [use] down and, hopefully by next fall, I will no longer [use] wool.”

The John Bartlett Spring 2011 collection that will be hitting the racks soon already features some gorgeous, supple vegan ultra-suede jackets made in NYC, as well as some linen-based denims and organic cottons.

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Thieves & Washington State

The Skuld Crossover Pants in hemp/tencel blend with loose-pleated top and narrow ankles, and the MN Slim Jeans in black organic cotton from Thieves are two very cool pieces. Subtle pleats with a tailored cut below-the-knee is a great shape for spring, and simple, fitted, black jeans never get old.

• Following in the footsteps of Florida, Arizona and California, Farm Sanctuary has joined with HSUS and citizens in Washington state to launch an initiative effort to prevent cruelty. Language has been submitted and signatures will be collected to qualify a measure for the ballot that will outlaw battery cages and lessen the suffering of more than 6 million hens who are currently packed in these inhumane enclosures on egg farms in Washington state. These hens spend their entire lives crammed into tiny cages where they cannot spread their wings, and whose beaks are often seared off so they do not resort to cannibalism from stress. As this initiative takes off, find out how you can get involved.

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Kenai Flannel & Georges Laraque’s New Image

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• This “Kenai” flannel hooded jacket in organic cotton is half-off from Loomstate! A lightweight flannel zip-up jacket with a foldaway hood hidden in the zipped stadium rib collar. Body is lined in organic cotton flannel. Features an interior chest pocket and two snap closure waist pockets.

Georges Laraque holds up a plate of food that includes an Om burger, available at his vegan restaruant, Crudessence, in Montreal.

• Georges Laraque’s days of checking people on the ice are over as of last year, but he’s been busy getting people to check themselves before they wreck themselves with his vegan restaurants in Canada – Crudessence, with four locations in Montreal. Political office may also be in his future as Canada’s Green Party chose him to be their new deputy leader for showcasing such passion and eloquence concerning ethical and environmental issues. A recent article in Canada’s National Post says:Postmedia News Files

On the surface, the causes and activities Mr. Laraque, 34, has embraced seem worlds away from his life as a professional athlete. But the way he sees it, they are in keeping with the defiant approach to life he has taken since he was a child. “If you tell me I’m not going to make it, I’m going to make it,” he said in an interview at his restaurant, Crudessence. It is an approach shaped by his experience of racism at a young age.

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Striped Ties, Undercover Texans & No Snow Day for Horses

Daniel Hauff is a not a Texan, but he’s sure got the mustache for it. In an article from the Dallas Voice (Read the full article HERE), Hauff recently describes his experience as a gay, vegan, undercover investigator in Texas – which is hostile territory for all three of those characteristics. Hoff is the national director of investigations for Mercy for Animals, and is up against some serious cultural differences when he goes undercover and releases investigations like the recent fish scandal in Texas, but he takes them in stride:

“The first undercover investigation for MFA that we did that was employment-based,” meaning operatives for MFA go undercover in slaughterhouses and other animal-based industries, applying for jobs and then cataloging abuses and law violations. On the last day of the investigation just concluded in Texas, Hauff himself was wired with a hidden camera, interacting with the people in the abattoir (though he admits his duties generally don’t put him undercover).”

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I am loving the new, bold striped ties from Jaanj. With classic combos like blue and gold, red and white, and blue and white, you can’t go wrong. Wear these with a solid shirt, and beneath a waistcoat for a more refined look. Also, the navy polka-dot bow tie is a fail-safe if you’re considering trying something new. Learning how to tie a bow tie is a long-lost rite of passage, so get on it! These are all made from microfiber satin, so 3,000 silk worms were not boiled alive to make just one pound of silk.

Blue and Orange Tie in Blue/Orange Red and White Tie in Red/White Blue and White Tie in Blue/White Self Tie Polka Dot Non Silk Bow Ties in Dark Blue/White

• Thanks to the efforts of Donny Moss, NYC’s GOTHAMIST reported on a shameful and illegal display of cruelty over the last few days:

Carriage Horses Spotted Working Illegally During “Weather Emergency”

Director of Blinders, Donny Moss, wrote to us last night pointing out Mayor Bloomberg’s declaration of a weather emergency yesterday, in which he stated: “Clearing the streets remains our number one job—and to do that, motorists should please, please refrain from driving.” However, the carriage horses were still out there working hard, and Moss wonders “how the ASPCA could have possibly allowed them to leave their buildings this morning, given the Mayor’s announcement, the dangerous conditions, and the law, which clearly states that horses should not be working under these conditions.”
Please leave a comment and let them know we appreciate their covering of this story.

Urban Outfitters Breaks the Law

According to an ethical fashion lover’s blog, La Belle Nuage, it appears that Urban Outfitters in actually breaking the law by violating The Truth in Fur Labeling Act. They are selling a woman’s cardigan called “S Loves C by Spring & Clifton Faux Fur Cardigan.” The description says it is made from  “Cotton, acrylic, polyester“, but if you look at the fur trim, it is very obviously not faux.

Read the rest at the PINNACLE blog.

Missoni Ties & Fish Lies

Missoni’s iconic patters, colors and textures define the brand. You can get these cool cotton ties at GILT man for almost 50% off retail. GILT is invite only, so get your invite here.

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• It is now widely accepted that fish feel pain. In fact, fish process pain in much the same way as mammals. A new Mercy For Animals undercover investigation provides a startling glimpse into “Catfish Corner,” a fish slaughter facility in Mesquite, Texas. Behind the operation’s jaunty name lies a grisly reality. From the water to the cutting table, fish are tortured – suffocated, skinned and dismembered, all while conscious and feeling pain. The fish in the video exhibit pronounced aversive responses to their handling, such as violently flopping and attempting to move away, suggesting that they indeed feel pain and are suffering immensely. MFA’s hidden camera video reveals:

  • Workers using pliers to pull the skin off of live fish
  • Dozens of fish crammed into buckets and baskets, gasping for oxygen
  • Skinned fish still moving and gasping on the cutting table
  • Fish flailing and struggling to escape the workers’ knives
  • Live fish sliced and split in half
  • Workers tearing the heads off of live fish

Upon reviewing the undercover footage, animal behaviorist Dr. Jonathan Balcombe harshly condemned Catfish Corner, stating,

Treating [fish] like inanimate things is cruel and ethically abhorrent. Handling such as that shown in the footage is extremely cruel and heartless and should be outlawed immediately.

Veterinarian Lee Schrader concurred, adding, “To subject fish to an obviously painful procedure such as the removal of their skin, while they are alive and responsive, is cruel, inhumane and without excuse.” Further, no measures were taken to stun or render the fish insensible to pain prior to skinning. According to Dr. Schrader, the fact that the animals stopped struggling only after their heads were removed suggests that their movement was a deliberate response to pain.

In the U.S. each year, approximately 8.4 billion fish are killed for food. According to the U.S. Department of Agriculture, more than 80% of farm-raised fish are catfish, with Texas as a leading producer. Fortunately, as consumers we have the power to spare fish – and all other animals used in food production – unnecessary pain and suffering by adopting a compassionate vegan diet.