The Discerning Brute: fashion, food & etiquette for the ethically handsome man » art

What the Flock, Steven Tyler? The Aesthetic Irrationality of Feather Hair Extensions

joshuakatcher — Mon, 11 Jul 2011 18:54:59 +0000

Steven Tyler's hair is not just a rat's nest - it's a bird's nest too. Steven's stylist, Stephanie Pohl, didn't start the trend of bonding rooster feathers to human hair, but the attention that the American Idol host has received for his clucking curls, rooster ringlets, or poultry pelo is resulting an enormous demand for these feathers, worldwide. According to an InStyle feature on Tyler's hair, in addition to the feather, Stephanie also mentions a "raccoon tail" she uses in Steven's hair and says, “Every few weeks I change out the feathers and bond new ones into his hair. The feathers stay in until I remove them.” In a strange twist, fly-fisherman who typically use these feathers as lures, are suffering from a sudden rise in demand outside of the fishing world. Good for fish, bad for roosters who are typically killed and tossed in the trash after the feathers are "harvested". On a deeper level, the recent obsession among rock-stars, hipsters and fashionistas with indigenous and native people's aesthetics in general - from hair extensions and jewelry made from feathers to Navajo prints, fur, shearling, and fox-tail key-chains to full on feather headdresses - speaks of a large-scale desire to commune with nature and animals. People want to embrace the aesthetic of being wild, free, a nature warrior, and one with wild nature. The intention of this trend is good - after all, we did evolve over millions of years in nature with animals, but in a modern consumer culture, where horrible production processes are hidden and obscured by advertising and sleek PR, the relationship we have to the birds whose feathers are ripped out couldn't be further from one that honors them or represents any legitimate connection to wild nature. It is a contradiction. I would go as far as saying that this aesthetic appropriation isn't just a lie, but because of its insincerity or ability to live up to what it claims to represent (communion with nature), it is an incredibly perverted appropriation of traditional native and indigenous people's aesthetics. It does to animals exactly the opposite of what it intends to visually represent: The Audubon Society was started because of the harm caused to birds used for hats in the Millinery trade, sometimes leading to extinction - but Audubon does not seem interested in issues regarding domesticated birds, even through the cruel trend mirrors their own inception. "There something that's worse than extinction for these animals and that's endless proliferation," said Karen Davis of UPC (United Poultry Concerns). The roosters used for these saddle-feathers have been bred over generations to develop long, colorful feathers. According to Jenny Brown of the Woodstock Farm Animal Sanctuary, the feather plucking process is incredibly painful, and certain feathers, called "blood- feathers", will bleed when plucked. And according to Global Animal:

"Whiting Farms in western Colorado is the world’s largest producer of fly tying feathers. There, the roosters are given only a year to live while their saddle feathers grow as long as possible. (Research varies, but when they aren’t killed for their plumage, roosters can naturally live to be 10-15 years old.) Once the feathers are deemed satisfactory, the rooster is slaughtered, and his feathers plucked. His lifeless body is then thrown out for compost; Thomas Whiting, the company founder (via the Orange County Register), claims that, ”They aren’t good for anything else.” The Whiting Farms website boasts that “over 125,000 total birds (were) harvested in 2000.”"

According to TimesUnion.com,

... they used to go for $50 per saddle, now the price is up to an astounding $500!" Fisherman simply can't compete. According to an article on eccorazi.com, It’s gotten so out of hand that at least one farm in Western Colorado is now killing up to 1,500 roosters per week just for their backside “saddle” feathers. Here is a portion of a piece in the Seattle Times where they explain that the animals usually do not survive the plucking process: "At Whiting Farms Inc., in western Colorado, one of the world’s largest producers of fly tying feathers, the roosters live about a year while their saddle feathers — the ones on the bird’s backside and the most popular for hair extensions — grow as long as possible. Then the animal is euthanized.” At this time, I cannot not find their definition of “euthanized”...

The demand for these feather is out of control, and fishing store like caddisflyshop.com are cashing in, infuriating fisherman and animal advocates alike. This image from their blog, earlier this year, shows a recent delivery of the feathers, and the writer says:

Deal with it folks, we fly tyers are a dot on the international consumer market for feathers. The days of easy access to dyed blue grizzly saddles, dyed purple grizzly saddles, and dyed anything grizzly saddles could be over for several years.

Whenever an evil, like animal cruelty, is redefined as an aesthetic object (in this case, the feather hair extension) its moral qualities vanish. The pretty feather (an isolated aesthetic) is seen as a good, not an evil. According to philosopher Lars Svendsen, this is called aesthetic irrationality. The fashion industry (as well as the culinary industry) is saturated with aesthetic irrationality, where "textiles" that are far removed from production processes are justified based only on their perceived "good" as pleasurable and beautiful objects with an empty history that is filled in by marketing and advertising campaigns that lie to make profits.

INTERVIEW: Fabrice Penot of Le Labo

joshuakatcher — Sat, 07 May 2011 01:02:24 +0000

by Joshua Katcher The sophisticated olfactory genius of Le Labo continues to impress most nostrils that come across it. In addition to their most recent writeup in the May issue of W, Le Labo has received international acclaim and garnered a cult following of obsessed aesthetes. From their stores in Paris, New York, Tokyo, Berlin, London, Amsterdam and every other major city you can think of, to Barney's and Colette, to their exclusive line for Anthropologie - the world of Le Labo fragrances is full of intrigue and desire; it is an art, a science, an obsession. I am reminded of the plot from Tom Robbin's Jitterbug Perfume where two of the main characters are questing for the mysterious secret ingredient to a 300-year-old fragrance that is believed to posses magical properties. And there is something magical about this brand. People are mad about Le Labo - and they aren't ashamed to drench themselves in the stuff, and fill their home with their candles, myself included. All of their perfumes are unisex; Rose 31 and Santal 33 are rituals to my day - and forgetting to spray some on often feels like I've left something crucial about myself at home. All of Le Labo's perfumes are 100% vegan - as are the founders Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi (all "musk" and other ingredients are synthesized) - two men that are changing the fragrance industry through their commitment to esthetic olfactology, the environment, and animals. (On a side note - I will be carrying the entire line of Le Labo on BraveGentleMan.com, and rumor has it that an exclusive fragrance for Brave GentleMan is in development. Shh..) I had a chance to interview Fabrice recently, and this was our conversation: Discerning Brute: What is it about fragrances, perfumes, odors, and smell that you love so much? Fabrice Penot: I am not sure... I think I like to express myself through perfume creation because there is something pretty magical by creating an emotion in people through something unseen. DB: What is your favorite bit of history about perfume, and how does that influence your work? FP: There are so many, but the one that pops into my mind since I guess we'll talk about animal products is the story of maybe the most mythical ingredient in fine perfumery which is "ambergris". Ambergris comes from the sperm whale - it smells of a magical thing that you can't really define, and you find yourself between disgust and attraction. There is a fecal part for sure, but there is also a soft, musky, very white part that is addictive. In a nustshell, this ingredient can be found on sea shores, as it is the result of the sperm whale's vomit (looks like a black stone, with the weight of a sponge). The magic happens while the floating "stone" travels on the ocean, being washed by the water, baked by the sun, and eventually ends on the sand near the coast, adding the marine and musky smell to the repulsive original smell of the rejection. Knowing that this has been used for decades in fine perfumery and that it was one of its most precious elements was always fascinating to me as a young perfume student. Even though you did not hurt the animal to produce this, (you actually don't even see him or her), nowadays the natural ambergris as been replaced by a synthetic version for perfumery use and Eddie, my creative partner, and I are using a lot in almost each one of our creations. Dirty musky notes are part of the secret of every sensual dry-down at Le Labo. DB: What is Le Labo, and why is it different from other brands? FP: The dirty musky note! And many other things, too - but I guess the more important one is the intention behind everything we do: we want to make the life of our clients more beautiful through our craft, perfume creation (and do no harm while doing so). Of course, there is a cult around our creations for what they are and we are proud of it, but I think at one point, people don't only buy what you do, they buy why you do it, and that would explain to me why our clients are so hooked with our creations. DB: Tell me about your relationship with animals and how that plays into your business? FP: I don't know how to answer that. I guess my relationship with animals changed when I understood my belief in and hope for global peace between humans was kind of useless because there was something about this humanity that was rotten in the first place - that mankind was just a piece of the puzzle, and that of course, there will be no peace between humans as long as they will not respect any kind of life on this planet. I understood you couldn't believe in the power of non violence and close your eyes to the violence created by your own life style, eating habits, shopping habits or even creation habits on other living things. I think the quote from Tolstoi was kind of a "a-hah" moment for me at that point: "As long as there are slaughterhouses, there will be battlefields "... And since then, I never looked at an animal the same way. I understood simply that I do not want to hurt anyone. I need peace and harmony for the world and I am hoping to start here, from my home, my family, my creations, my office, my business. So I became vegan a few seconds after I realized that. My girlfriend and I decided to jump together and all became very natural. Our children have been raised vegan. My friend and business partner Eddie is now vegan and deeply committed with me to change the habits of the perfume industry with the few animal ingredients still used, So I feel like the happiness and the beauty in my life comes from the coherence of everything around. DB: Is there a code of ethics that is followed at Le Labo concerning people, animals, and the environment? What is it and how to you make sure it is followed? FP: Well, not everyone in the company is vegan but i can tell you everyone cares. Not only because the owners both are, but also because when they live in the environment we built, they can feel the logic behind it. Everyone has a high level of compassion in our team, and there is no need to recall an ethic code or anything... we are a small company and you can tell when everyone is working with the same quality of intention. The only thing we do is we challenge our suppliers (or even new partners) to commit to cruelty-free ingredients and try to inspire perfumers by using synthetics over naturals for civette and castoreum. DB: What is something people need to know about the modern fragrance industry? FP: The good news is the industry is being more and more concerned about environment and cruelty issues.Mainly because of the pressure of consumers and I am glad that works. I am sure some big beauty corporations continue to test their cosmetic products (not perfumes necessarily, but creams for example) on animals secretly, but they know they are taking big risks with the public if this becomes known. I think in a near future this will not exist anymore - one big scandal would be enough to scare them all. We need a Wikileak on this to solve it. Unfortunately, I have no access to these infos, but what I can tell you is that in the world of perfumery, there are very few animal products left to be used by the perfumers. To my knowledge there is only 2 left: castoreum (which is a by product of beaver) and civette (from a little wild cat that is trapped to extract that smell). There are synthetics available for these 2 products and we are an active force to raise awareness in perfume houses for the use of synthetics over naturals for these ingredients. DB: How do people respond to different smells, and how does that influence your recipes? FP: A perfume is very personal. The sense of smell is very linked to your memories. You can love a fig smell because it relates to a happy memory in your childhood and in the same time I can hate it because my first girlfriend dumped me under a fig tree...you can't create a perfume anticipating people's reaction to it, you just try to reach a certain kind of esthetic, beauty, surprise, elegance, soul with the shape of it. Then, if it is well done, it will connect with the person at a deep emotional level and be worth existing. Or not... DB: Talk about your favorite aspect of the science and the chemistry involved in our attraction to certain smells. FP: I am not so much on the science part i have to say. Eddie my partner is a scientist by training (and a poet by choice) so he is more the one who is the expert of that. I am more into the intuitive search of the creation of an emotion. There is actually no science behind that apart from quantum physics maybe, but it is a posteriori, not a priori, meaning after the experience. DB: You also are very good with presentation - from packaging to the store interior design. How did yo develop this? FP: It is just Eddie and I trying to marry our love for industrial design, perfumery and the Japanese philosophy of wabi sabi, the art of impermanence. DB: Which scents do you recommend for men? FP: All our creations are genderless...but men might connect more with Rose 31, Bergamote 22, Vetiver 46 and our new Santal 33. DB: What music are you listening to, and food are you obsessed with right now? FP: Music ( as we speak): my morning jacket, food: Dr Cow's cheese and your seitan bourguignon!! DB: Why are you vegan? FP: Because i think it is key for us to stop taking advantage of other living creatures in the world if we want to see humanity evolve in a more peaceful and sustainable way. I think it might be the most important choice I ever made in my life. Not that I made a lot of them, but still...

Kyotofu is Sweet, John Bartlett’s Jackets, Move & Speed Demons

joshuakatcher — Thu, 28 Apr 2011 16:37:28 +0000

• Kyotofu is a small Japanese restaurant tucked away in Hell's Kitchen. Their house-made tofu puts all other tofu's to shame; it is creamy, luscious, and delectable on its own - which is saying a lot for someone (me) who doesn't love tofu. The chefs transform the tofu into vanilla-chocolate swirl soft-serve (topped with green-tea mochi, brownie, caramel and fruit) that is to die for. The restaurant is not vegan, but there are several incredible vegan options. The sorbet dessert was delicious, and the the dessert that gets the cake is - the vegan chocolate cake. It is dense and slightly crisp on the outside; moist and rich on the inside, and the cocoa they use is so smooth. I will definitely be heading back for more, I'm addicted! • Prior to the dessert binge - Leanne of Vaute Couture and I went to see vegan choreographer James Koroni of enforcedarch.com perform in a benefit show for Autism. I snapped some pictures of his piece "Arrest Yourself" which was dark, edgy and really fun. • The following evening I attended the launch of John Bartlett's collection for Bon Ton, which included some really handsome, vegan faux-leather jackets. Look out for these next fall. • Lastly, I walked into the Tesla store to see for myself what all the excitement is surrounding this super-charged, electric sports-car. I have to say, even though I am more into the classic car aesthetic, I was in awe of how cool this car is, and I was even invited back for a test drive. I hope to report to you on that - and maybe shoot a video of it like my speed-queen pal Annabella at Ethical Bella. In addition being the baddest electric car on the road, Tesla offers microfiber interiors for vegetarians.

Anntian Spring’11, Eat the Living & Animal Rescue Corps

joshuakatcher — Fri, 04 Mar 2011 04:07:15 +0000

• ANNTIAN's Spring 2011 lookbook, inspired by the natural, ripe lushness of fruit, features bright colors, organic, lux textures and patters, and hints of psychedelic tribalism - an ode to the future hippie in a sane world. Anttian says "Behind this is our wish to touch on the subject of how important the relationship and behavior towards nature and food and "living together" is. Anntiain strives to use sustainable materials like organic cotton. • "Should we name them?" This was one of the first things one of the "foodies" asked before eating live lobster at 15 East for the sake of Zagat. Immediately the woman in the middle says, "No That will give them personality" and the man on the far right, "then there'll be a whole faction of PETA people that think we're terrible". Eating an animal while it's still squirming requires a serious disconnect, but even more-so, it requires a desire to be seen as controversial, edgy, experimental, brave and cool . The website challenges, "If you’re brave enough to experience it yourself, the special is $120 and feeds two." Listening to the people in the video fumble through rationalizations for doing this is amazing. See for yourself: This reminds me of the recent article, The Moral Crusade Against Foodies, by B. R. Myers, which is a must-read for anyone concerned with food and ethics issues. Image credit: John Cuneo

“A true gastronome,” according to a British dining manual of the time, “is as insensible to suffering as is a conqueror.” But for the past several decades, factory farms have made meat ever cheaper and—as the excellent book The CAFO Reader makes clear—the pain and trauma are thrown in for free. The contemporary gourmet reacts by voicing an ever-stronger preference for free-range meats from small local farms. He even claims to believe that well-treated animals taste better, though his heart isn’t really in it.

• I love the aesthetic of the Animal Rescue Corps. It's very effective, using a military-inspired logo and language like "serving" animals. The real heroism of this organization is showcased in their organized, rescue operations - and President Scotlund Haisley is certainly a Discerning Brute, with impressive and extensive experience in animal rescue, shelters, advocacy, fund-raising and legislation - even rehabilitating 11 of Michael Vick's dogs, and working to rescue of over 1,000 animals in post-Katrina New Orleans. With a focus on Puppy Mills, Companion Animal Abuse, Animals in Agriculture, and Animals in Research, the Animal Rescue Corps is a reserve of true heroes. Why not join them?

Racy Tees, Adult Chocolates & Lab Meat

joshuakatcher — Wed, 02 Feb 2011 00:31:39 +0000

• This new tee from Kill Shop Kill makes quite a statement, but it also is for two good causes, and I bet the ladies won't complain or disagree. This latest collaboration with veg smut star Jessie Lee was undertaken to help her cover medical expenses incurred when she suffered a near fatal car crash on November 5, 2010. She is still recovering serious physical and brain injuries, and the purchase of the shirt helps a lot, and also promotes being kind to animals - and the ladies. • Right on topic, and perfect for Vday, why not get some chocolate "Furious Vulvas" or "Anatomical Hearts" from Lagusta's Luscious. These organic, vegan chocolates look amazing and taste even better. • Speaking of not eating meat, Yahoo News reported yesterday on some updates in the world of lab-grown meat:

One pioneer in the field is Dr. Vladimir Mironov, a developmental biologist and tissue engineer at the University of South Carolina.... the lab-based approach to meat cultivation promises to be more humane than the factory-farm alternative. His research team has indeed received a grant from People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) in an effort to reduce both the need for massive farms and, well, the need to slaughter animals for food. The process is similar to how yogurt is made. "Once a meat-cell culture exists, it could function the way a yeast or yogurt culture does," Robin wrote, "so that meat growers wouldn't need to use a new animal for each set of starter cells."

Awesome? Gross? What do you think?

The Cost of Edward Gorey’s Coats

joshuakatcher — Wed, 05 Jan 2011 20:33:17 +0000

(Thanks to contributor, Matt Lara, for the tip)

Edward Gorey might have enjoyed illustrating himself rolling in his own grave after his collection of twenty-one fur coats were not sent to Coats for Cubs or the homeless, or someone who might actually need a coat to stay warm or to survive. Instead, when their storage (which requires refrigeration, cleaning, and other treatments so as to not decompose) began costing the estate trustees too much money, they were auctioned off to a small crowd of eager Edward Gorey fans. Sadly, and contrary to Mr. Gorey's own change-of-heart, these fans could make them fashionable, once again. One of the auction winners, A. N. Devers , of The Paris Review Daily writes:

Over the years, Edward Gorey collected twenty-one fur coats, which he was notorious for wearing with Converse sneakers, often to the New York City Ballet. Sometime in the eighties, however (he died in 2000), Gorey seems to have had a change of heart. He opened portions of his home to a family of raccoons that finally settled in the attic. According to a tour guide at the Edward Gorey House, this was an act of penance; Gorey felt guilty for wearing their fur. At some point he locked up his coats in a storage facility. In his will, he left his entire estate to the care and welfare of animals. Among the many beneficiaries of the Edward Gorey Charitable Trust: the Xerces Society, dedicated to biological diversity through invertebrate conservation; the Bat Conservation International Foundation; and the Animals League of Boston (Cape Cod branch). But because of this commitment to our furry friends, the Edward Gorey Charitable Trust faced a difficult decision when it came to his coats.

The NYC auction was visited by what Devers describes as "Gorey’s most devoted admirers," who each had wanted some tangible piece of Edward Gorey to call their own. The irony here is that Gorey had long since locked away his furs and stopped wearing them for a very specific ethical reason. He had come to an awareness and enlightenment about what that coat communicated, how it was made, and the dangers posed to other animals from making it an acceptable fashion statement. The eager devotees and the estate trustees did not seem interested in the fact that the artist they loved so much, whose intentions were clear, would probably ask them to refrain from wearing the coats out in public. In the comments section of Devers article, she defends her wearing of the coat against Discerning Brute contributor Matt Lara's criticism. She says, "I plan on honoring and respecting the coat for its story and history, which I find considerable value in. It is a part of Gorey’s legacy, just as his beautiful drawings of fur coats are a part of his legacy. Should we shut those drawings away in a storage facility too?" Ms. Devers, we should no sooner shut away drawings of fur than we should shut away fictional representations of anything unethical. The difference is, a drawing was not made by the torturous death of 40 animals - who are typically anally and vaginally electrocuted, bludgeoned, gassed, or have their necks snapped on fur farms - or who are trapped in the wild where they starve to death, bleed to death, or chew of their own limbs to escape. Some who are uncomfortable with the reality of fur production call this position uptight, but I call it a clear and honest consistency with the values most of us already share. The problem is a disconnect between the physical reality of fur production vs. the mythology of the fur coat form. I present a parodic comment dedicated to Ms. Devers:

I am so glad we have the same perspective on taking a garment that represents incredible cruelty and finding a way to wear it with honor. I had a similar experience with KKK regalia. I went to an auction of vintage American costumes, one of which was a KKK hood. As it turned out, the racist who had once donned this hood had a change of heart and decided that hating certain people was not ethical - and he ended up leaving all of his estate money to help combat hate. I was so excited to win the hood, and when I wear it, I know the money went to a good cause. I certainly won't be "parading around" in this either. I'll be honoring and respecting the hood for it's "story and history".

You might be thinking - how can I - nay, how dare I compare racism with speciesism! All I am pointing out is that fashion is a powerful form of visual communication. When it comes to living, feeling animals with central nervous systems, who cry out and struggle to escape assault, and who do their best to say "no" - a fur coat's meaning is simple; it means you hate animals. If not, how else could you justify wearing it? For those who think this is brash, I'd question if they've ever seen conditions on fur farms or know why so many countries are outlawing and phasing out fur farming like Denmark, Scotland, Ireland, The UK, most of Austria, and The Netherlands? WWEGD? Those of you out there who won the coats - whose hard-earned money went to animal welfare organizations - I would ask you to take it one step further, if you are truly a fan of Edward Gorey; a fan of the man himself, and not just of the art. Why not donate the coat you won to coats for cubs or the homeless and turn a product that represents indifference to suffering into a life-saving object?

Buy Shoes, Plant Trees

JohnHolden — Wed, 05 Jan 2011 07:00:05 +0000

After a Blizzard took over NYC, I'm already thinking about spring. Seeing some of the styles from myCATS, how could you not wait to slip in to some of these espadrilles. Along with all of the vibrant colors you can feel even better knowing that these eco-friendly kicks are handmade and they have partnered with the organization Tress for the Future. " For every shoe sold, myCATS will plant 2 trees in your name. These trees not only clean our air by reducing carbon emissions and fighting global warming, but also provide significant income and livelihood options for people. Trees provide medicine, beverages, fruit, soil fertility, erosion control and even something as simple as shade can help improve the quality of life for these people."

Apolis, Join the Club & Gilt Sale

joshuakatcher — Tue, 28 Dec 2010 18:50:56 +0000

• Apolis: Global Citizen is the future of garment production - and it's a necessary future. From Bangledesh to Nepal and Uganda, "Apolis connects developing economies to the global marketplace through seasonal stories and tracks our tangible social results... Although Apolis is heavily inspired by philanthropy, we are a for-profit social enterprise wherein our customers act as benefactors, allowing Apolis to grow as a sustainable business instead of depending on fundraising for support. We have found this model of social business to be the most valuable and effective way to accomplish our ambitious long term goals of “advocacy through industry.” While I wish (and I find myself doing this too often) that more of the items were free of livestock products, considering the immense ecological toll and inherent cruelty of raising animals to use their skins and hairs (leather & wool), from a human-rights and labor standpoint, I still think this is a very important business model to point out. Here are some of the cruelty-free items from the website: • 90% off at GILT MAN's Holiday Sale! Here are some vegan jackets and blazers I've selected from the options. If you're not a GILT Member, get your invitation by clicking HERE. • Join the club. Point collars and spread collars are not the only options out there. Club collars are rounded, smaller, and offer a soft but sophisticated alternative. They were popular in the first few decades of the twentieth century - and likewise, offer the wearer a subtle antique-gentleman or dandy appeal. The shirt on the right, from Patrik Ervell, does not even require a tie. When wearing a shirt like this, it is best to button up all the way, and layer under a blazer, cardigan, or sweater-jacket. Getting sick of super-skinny ties? (me too!) The club collar is a great excuse to pull out a medium or wide, striped tie. •