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INTERVIEW: Fabrice Penot of Le Labo

joshuakatcher — Sat, 07 May 2011 01:02:24 +0000

by Joshua Katcher The sophisticated olfactory genius of Le Labo continues to impress most nostrils that come across it. In addition to their most recent writeup in the May issue of W, Le Labo has received international acclaim and garnered a cult following of obsessed aesthetes. From their stores in Paris, New York, Tokyo, Berlin, London, Amsterdam and every other major city you can think of, to Barney's and Colette, to their exclusive line for Anthropologie - the world of Le Labo fragrances is full of intrigue and desire; it is an art, a science, an obsession. I am reminded of the plot from Tom Robbin's Jitterbug Perfume where two of the main characters are questing for the mysterious secret ingredient to a 300-year-old fragrance that is believed to posses magical properties. And there is something magical about this brand. People are mad about Le Labo - and they aren't ashamed to drench themselves in the stuff, and fill their home with their candles, myself included. All of their perfumes are unisex; Rose 31 and Santal 33 are rituals to my day - and forgetting to spray some on often feels like I've left something crucial about myself at home. All of Le Labo's perfumes are 100% vegan - as are the founders Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi (all "musk" and other ingredients are synthesized) - two men that are changing the fragrance industry through their commitment to esthetic olfactology, the environment, and animals. (On a side note - I will be carrying the entire line of Le Labo on BraveGentleMan.com, and rumor has it that an exclusive fragrance for Brave GentleMan is in development. Shh..) I had a chance to interview Fabrice recently, and this was our conversation: Discerning Brute: What is it about fragrances, perfumes, odors, and smell that you love so much? Fabrice Penot: I am not sure... I think I like to express myself through perfume creation because there is something pretty magical by creating an emotion in people through something unseen. DB: What is your favorite bit of history about perfume, and how does that influence your work? FP: There are so many, but the one that pops into my mind since I guess we'll talk about animal products is the story of maybe the most mythical ingredient in fine perfumery which is "ambergris". Ambergris comes from the sperm whale - it smells of a magical thing that you can't really define, and you find yourself between disgust and attraction. There is a fecal part for sure, but there is also a soft, musky, very white part that is addictive. In a nustshell, this ingredient can be found on sea shores, as it is the result of the sperm whale's vomit (looks like a black stone, with the weight of a sponge). The magic happens while the floating "stone" travels on the ocean, being washed by the water, baked by the sun, and eventually ends on the sand near the coast, adding the marine and musky smell to the repulsive original smell of the rejection. Knowing that this has been used for decades in fine perfumery and that it was one of its most precious elements was always fascinating to me as a young perfume student. Even though you did not hurt the animal to produce this, (you actually don't even see him or her), nowadays the natural ambergris as been replaced by a synthetic version for perfumery use and Eddie, my creative partner, and I are using a lot in almost each one of our creations. Dirty musky notes are part of the secret of every sensual dry-down at Le Labo. DB: What is Le Labo, and why is it different from other brands? FP: The dirty musky note! And many other things, too - but I guess the more important one is the intention behind everything we do: we want to make the life of our clients more beautiful through our craft, perfume creation (and do no harm while doing so). Of course, there is a cult around our creations for what they are and we are proud of it, but I think at one point, people don't only buy what you do, they buy why you do it, and that would explain to me why our clients are so hooked with our creations. DB: Tell me about your relationship with animals and how that plays into your business? FP: I don't know how to answer that. I guess my relationship with animals changed when I understood my belief in and hope for global peace between humans was kind of useless because there was something about this humanity that was rotten in the first place - that mankind was just a piece of the puzzle, and that of course, there will be no peace between humans as long as they will not respect any kind of life on this planet. I understood you couldn't believe in the power of non violence and close your eyes to the violence created by your own life style, eating habits, shopping habits or even creation habits on other living things. I think the quote from Tolstoi was kind of a "a-hah" moment for me at that point: "As long as there are slaughterhouses, there will be battlefields "... And since then, I never looked at an animal the same way. I understood simply that I do not want to hurt anyone. I need peace and harmony for the world and I am hoping to start here, from my home, my family, my creations, my office, my business. So I became vegan a few seconds after I realized that. My girlfriend and I decided to jump together and all became very natural. Our children have been raised vegan. My friend and business partner Eddie is now vegan and deeply committed with me to change the habits of the perfume industry with the few animal ingredients still used, So I feel like the happiness and the beauty in my life comes from the coherence of everything around. DB: Is there a code of ethics that is followed at Le Labo concerning people, animals, and the environment? What is it and how to you make sure it is followed? FP: Well, not everyone in the company is vegan but i can tell you everyone cares. Not only because the owners both are, but also because when they live in the environment we built, they can feel the logic behind it. Everyone has a high level of compassion in our team, and there is no need to recall an ethic code or anything... we are a small company and you can tell when everyone is working with the same quality of intention. The only thing we do is we challenge our suppliers (or even new partners) to commit to cruelty-free ingredients and try to inspire perfumers by using synthetics over naturals for civette and castoreum. DB: What is something people need to know about the modern fragrance industry? FP: The good news is the industry is being more and more concerned about environment and cruelty issues.Mainly because of the pressure of consumers and I am glad that works. I am sure some big beauty corporations continue to test their cosmetic products (not perfumes necessarily, but creams for example) on animals secretly, but they know they are taking big risks with the public if this becomes known. I think in a near future this will not exist anymore - one big scandal would be enough to scare them all. We need a Wikileak on this to solve it. Unfortunately, I have no access to these infos, but what I can tell you is that in the world of perfumery, there are very few animal products left to be used by the perfumers. To my knowledge there is only 2 left: castoreum (which is a by product of beaver) and civette (from a little wild cat that is trapped to extract that smell). There are synthetics available for these 2 products and we are an active force to raise awareness in perfume houses for the use of synthetics over naturals for these ingredients. DB: How do people respond to different smells, and how does that influence your recipes? FP: A perfume is very personal. The sense of smell is very linked to your memories. You can love a fig smell because it relates to a happy memory in your childhood and in the same time I can hate it because my first girlfriend dumped me under a fig tree...you can't create a perfume anticipating people's reaction to it, you just try to reach a certain kind of esthetic, beauty, surprise, elegance, soul with the shape of it. Then, if it is well done, it will connect with the person at a deep emotional level and be worth existing. Or not... DB: Talk about your favorite aspect of the science and the chemistry involved in our attraction to certain smells. FP: I am not so much on the science part i have to say. Eddie my partner is a scientist by training (and a poet by choice) so he is more the one who is the expert of that. I am more into the intuitive search of the creation of an emotion. There is actually no science behind that apart from quantum physics maybe, but it is a posteriori, not a priori, meaning after the experience. DB: You also are very good with presentation - from packaging to the store interior design. How did yo develop this? FP: It is just Eddie and I trying to marry our love for industrial design, perfumery and the Japanese philosophy of wabi sabi, the art of impermanence. DB: Which scents do you recommend for men? FP: All our creations are genderless...but men might connect more with Rose 31, Bergamote 22, Vetiver 46 and our new Santal 33. DB: What music are you listening to, and food are you obsessed with right now? FP: Music ( as we speak): my morning jacket, food: Dr Cow's cheese and your seitan bourguignon!! DB: Why are you vegan? FP: Because i think it is key for us to stop taking advantage of other living creatures in the world if we want to see humanity evolve in a more peaceful and sustainable way. I think it might be the most important choice I ever made in my life. Not that I made a lot of them, but still...

Lincoln Center Sustainable Fashion & PINNACLE

joshuakatcher — Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:32:46 +0000

A photog from the RightyRightyRight fashion blog and zine snapped some photos of my rad outfit sponsored by CPas & NOVACAS at Lincoln Center, yesterday. In addition to the recycled-poly, hand-tailored blazer and vest, the organic cotton shirt and pants, the recycled-poly and recycled-cotton coat, the organic denim and vegan leather bag, and the NOVACAS vegan boots - I was wearing my April77 vegan biker jacket, carrying a Matt & Nat cruelty-free bag with recycled soda-bottle ultra-suede lining, and sporting my fav vintage sunglasses. This happened right before I went into Lincoln Center and got interviewed by Robert Verdi. I showed him the PINNACLE Mag, to which he said “I already have that“. I was wowed. Mr. Verdi, are you anti-fur yet? Huffington Post contributor, Andy Stepanian, wrote a really impressive article on PINNACLE: Reinvent The Icon today, featuring some of the amazing photos by Anthony Two Moons and Gregory Vaughan. PLease check it out and spread the word!

Kenai Flannel & Georges Laraque’s New Image

joshuakatcher — Sun, 30 Jan 2011 16:45:39 +0000

• This "Kenai" flannel hooded jacket in organic cotton is half-off from Loomstate! A lightweight flannel zip-up jacket with a foldaway hood hidden in the zipped stadium rib collar. Body is lined in organic cotton flannel. Features an interior chest pocket and two snap closure waist pockets. • Georges Laraque's days of checking people on the ice are over as of last year, but he's been busy getting people to check themselves before they wreck themselves with his vegan restaurants in Canada - Crudessence, with four locations in Montreal. Political office may also be in his future as Canada's Green Party chose him to be their new deputy leader for showcasing such passion and eloquence concerning ethical and environmental issues. A recent article in Canada's National Post says:

On the surface, the causes and activities Mr. Laraque, 34, has embraced seem worlds away from his life as a professional athlete. But the way he sees it, they are in keeping with the defiant approach to life he has taken since he was a child. “If you tell me I’m not going to make it, I’m going to make it,” he said in an interview at his restaurant, Crudessence. It is an approach shaped by his experience of racism at a young age.

Jake Shields, Kill It Cook It Eat It & Suing Fur From Magazines

joshuakatcher — Thu, 06 Jan 2011 22:59:28 +0000

• Jake Shields recently won Peta2’s most veg friendly athlete of the year! I interviewed Jake way-back-when, and it's awesome to see his career is becoming so successful - and that someone who demands so much from his body does it without meat. When he fights GSP in April, he will become the highest profile vegetarian athlete in the world. Go Jake! For a glimpse into the life of Mr. Shields, watch the trailer for an upcoming documentary about him here: • LA Weekly is reporting on a new BBC show that will premiere in the US on January 18th on Current TV, called Kill It Cook It Eat It. This show is certain to get a large viewership - but I wonder just how honest a depiction of the slaughter really is, and whether the viewers get to visit large factory farms and USDA slaughterhouses (where 99% of meat comes from) or just the small, killing-with-kindness farms that maintain the bucolic myth of where our food comes from. In addition, pay careful attention to the "It" in the title. It's not "Kill Them Cook Them Eat Them" - or "him" or "her" for that matter. They are careful to refer to animals as objects as opposed to individuals. Current TV's description is as follows:

" ...a diverse group of participants is challenged to procure their main course the old-fashioned way: by hunting and killing their chosen prey, butchering it in the slaughterhouse, helping to prepare it in the kitchen, and ultimately sampling it at the dinner table. Some may enjoy the process while others recoil, but for each diner it's an intense journey that just may change their perspectives -- and appetites -- forever."

•Writer Jim Edwards, from CBS's BNET website, is calling for Harper's Bazaar to be sued over it's fashion spreads - which could open a legal floodgate to help animals on fur farms. Long-gone are the days when fashion editorials were created for the sake of fashion-as-art. A list that was accidentally left in a hotel lobby revealed (what most fashion industry insiders already know) that paid-advertisers are given priority when it comes to shooting fashion "editorials", which "...appears to be a blatant violation of the FTC’s new guidelines for advertisers." Edwards c0ntinues, "If the FTC sued Harper’s Bazaar magazine for not disclosing that its advertisers influence its editorial features it would do readers of women’s magazines — and the fashion business in general — a huge favor...the legal framework exists to make it a possibility, and the FTC has shown interest in bashing the fashion biz before. Animal rights attorneys, pay attention!

"A fashion editorial is clearly an endorsement, but does Harper’s disclose the “material connections” between its fashion shoots and the advertisers who buy ads and provide the garments? Not online. In Harper’s December shoot with Iman, the items are identified by designer and price but it doesn’t say whether the Michael Kors fur scarf in shot 1 was selected because Kors is No. 2 on Harper’s list of advertisers."

A large portion of the demand for fur originates from paid-advertisers, which explains why so much fur is in every fashion mag. Fur marketing organizations that represent independent farms have millions of dollars to play with, considering the exorbitant mark-up of fur garments. There's a lot of legal jargon in the full article that I'll leave to you lawyers, but when it comes to heavily-funded designers that use fur, their days gracing so many pages of editorials could be numbered. This also gives stylists something to celebrate, since their craft was hi-jacked in the early nineties. "Of course, readers of women’s magazines know that most of the editorial is either made up or bought-and-paid for by advertisers, so it’s tough to argue that consumers are “damaged” by them. Still, wouldn’t it be nice if one area of the fashion world wasn’t complete fiction?"

The Cost of Edward Gorey’s Coats

joshuakatcher — Wed, 05 Jan 2011 20:33:17 +0000

(Thanks to contributor, Matt Lara, for the tip)

Edward Gorey might have enjoyed illustrating himself rolling in his own grave after his collection of twenty-one fur coats were not sent to Coats for Cubs or the homeless, or someone who might actually need a coat to stay warm or to survive. Instead, when their storage (which requires refrigeration, cleaning, and other treatments so as to not decompose) began costing the estate trustees too much money, they were auctioned off to a small crowd of eager Edward Gorey fans. Sadly, and contrary to Mr. Gorey's own change-of-heart, these fans could make them fashionable, once again. One of the auction winners, A. N. Devers , of The Paris Review Daily writes:

Over the years, Edward Gorey collected twenty-one fur coats, which he was notorious for wearing with Converse sneakers, often to the New York City Ballet. Sometime in the eighties, however (he died in 2000), Gorey seems to have had a change of heart. He opened portions of his home to a family of raccoons that finally settled in the attic. According to a tour guide at the Edward Gorey House, this was an act of penance; Gorey felt guilty for wearing their fur. At some point he locked up his coats in a storage facility. In his will, he left his entire estate to the care and welfare of animals. Among the many beneficiaries of the Edward Gorey Charitable Trust: the Xerces Society, dedicated to biological diversity through invertebrate conservation; the Bat Conservation International Foundation; and the Animals League of Boston (Cape Cod branch). But because of this commitment to our furry friends, the Edward Gorey Charitable Trust faced a difficult decision when it came to his coats.

The NYC auction was visited by what Devers describes as "Gorey’s most devoted admirers," who each had wanted some tangible piece of Edward Gorey to call their own. The irony here is that Gorey had long since locked away his furs and stopped wearing them for a very specific ethical reason. He had come to an awareness and enlightenment about what that coat communicated, how it was made, and the dangers posed to other animals from making it an acceptable fashion statement. The eager devotees and the estate trustees did not seem interested in the fact that the artist they loved so much, whose intentions were clear, would probably ask them to refrain from wearing the coats out in public. In the comments section of Devers article, she defends her wearing of the coat against Discerning Brute contributor Matt Lara's criticism. She says, "I plan on honoring and respecting the coat for its story and history, which I find considerable value in. It is a part of Gorey’s legacy, just as his beautiful drawings of fur coats are a part of his legacy. Should we shut those drawings away in a storage facility too?" Ms. Devers, we should no sooner shut away drawings of fur than we should shut away fictional representations of anything unethical. The difference is, a drawing was not made by the torturous death of 40 animals - who are typically anally and vaginally electrocuted, bludgeoned, gassed, or have their necks snapped on fur farms - or who are trapped in the wild where they starve to death, bleed to death, or chew of their own limbs to escape. Some who are uncomfortable with the reality of fur production call this position uptight, but I call it a clear and honest consistency with the values most of us already share. The problem is a disconnect between the physical reality of fur production vs. the mythology of the fur coat form. I present a parodic comment dedicated to Ms. Devers:

I am so glad we have the same perspective on taking a garment that represents incredible cruelty and finding a way to wear it with honor. I had a similar experience with KKK regalia. I went to an auction of vintage American costumes, one of which was a KKK hood. As it turned out, the racist who had once donned this hood had a change of heart and decided that hating certain people was not ethical - and he ended up leaving all of his estate money to help combat hate. I was so excited to win the hood, and when I wear it, I know the money went to a good cause. I certainly won't be "parading around" in this either. I'll be honoring and respecting the hood for it's "story and history".

You might be thinking - how can I - nay, how dare I compare racism with speciesism! All I am pointing out is that fashion is a powerful form of visual communication. When it comes to living, feeling animals with central nervous systems, who cry out and struggle to escape assault, and who do their best to say "no" - a fur coat's meaning is simple; it means you hate animals. If not, how else could you justify wearing it? For those who think this is brash, I'd question if they've ever seen conditions on fur farms or know why so many countries are outlawing and phasing out fur farming like Denmark, Scotland, Ireland, The UK, most of Austria, and The Netherlands? WWEGD? Those of you out there who won the coats - whose hard-earned money went to animal welfare organizations - I would ask you to take it one step further, if you are truly a fan of Edward Gorey; a fan of the man himself, and not just of the art. Why not donate the coat you won to coats for cubs or the homeless and turn a product that represents indifference to suffering into a life-saving object?

John Bartlett on the Casualities of Wardrobe

joshuakatcher — Tue, 28 Dec 2010 19:51:23 +0000

For most people into fashion and expressing personal style through clothes and accessories - it is not a WARdrobe unless there's causalities. John Bartlett continues to be a outspoken voice of reason among his CFDA peers and his colleagues in the design world. He is a personal friend, an award-winning designer, and I've decided to reprint a compelling entry from his blog yesterday:

2010 was an incredibly interesting year and one that I will always remember as the year I woke up from a dream, of sorts. You see, earlier this year i decided to move towards a plant based diet and to move away from using leather in my main collection, John Bartlett. My boyfriend John Esty and I decided to stop wearing leather, even our shoes and belts, and have begun encouraging our friends to seek out alternatives to leather and other animal derived materials. This journey was prompted, ironically, by all of the animal fur that has returned to the forefront of fashion this past year. The fall collections were dripping with fur from almost two-thirds of the designers showing in New York. I have learned that many of the younger designers are given free "fabric"(i.e. fur), funding for their shows and other swag like trips to visit the fur farms abroad. Designers who have never worked in fur are now using it with abandon. I asked one colleague, a fellow member of the C.F.D.A., why he used fur and he replied that he "could take it or leave it" but that he wasn't bothered about using fur because the animals are "humanely gassed". Does that sound strange to you? Am I the only one who thinks the fashion industry is light years behind other industries that have realized the unnecessary cruelty of using animals for selfish, outmoded ends. When I realized how much work there is to be done in this fur-free arena, I met up with the Humane Society to see what i could do to help get the word out that the pitiless fur industry mistreats and kills more than 50 million animals a year. I joined the groovy team from the fur-free department at the Humane Society and spoke in front of a group of Parsons students about my feelings about fur. There is so much information to share about the dark side of the fur industry and any opportunity to get in front of students before they are brainwashed by the fur pushers is an opportunity to save lives. If you are unclear as to what the fur industry looks like from behind the scenes please watch this video and visit the Humane Society's site: http://www.humanesociety.org/issues/campaigns/fur_free/

April 77 Launches Online Store

joshuakatcher — Tue, 14 Dec 2010 18:30:46 +0000

Rejoice! It's finally here! Our favorite vegan Parisian, Brice Partouche, has launched April 77's online store, chock full of bad-boy clothes and accessories that embrace the real rebels out there. Their new campaign features Jethro Cave (model, musician, and Nick Cave's son) and Sophie Willing (model and actress) in photos and an upcoming video!

Kenneth Cole, Loden Dager, Cool Contests & Clinton’s Tipping Point

joshuakatcher — Mon, 27 Sep 2010 20:16:06 +0000

• Not only does the new Loden Dager collection feature some sustainable fabrics, but if you look close, the belt the model is wearing is leather-free in clear plastic. The video is rad featuring music from Panda Bear and fun old-timey film clips. I'm liking Loden Dager more and more lately, especially after having a a chance to sit down with them about PINNACLE! Stay tuned... • Gardein is hosting a CONTEST to win a dinner for 4 prepared by celebrity chef Tal Ronnen, and all you have to is fill out a super easy survey! • Speaking of contests, Blackbird Parlour in Williamsburg is hosting a Veggie Burger Recipe Contest! Enter your written recipe along with your contact info by Oct 2nd. Finalists will be invited to a cook-off and the winner will have their signature burger named after them on their new menu! EMail Blackbird for more info! • Our friends over at Hint Mag remind us of Kenneth Cole's Rubber Collection, especially this mens' Electric Rain Boot - 100% of the net profits go to The AWEARNESS Fund, in partnership with amfAR (The Foundation for AIDS Research) • Clinton's choice to be vegan-ish is causing quite a frenzy. Dropping pounds, reversing heart disease, regaining his youthful high-school physique. Could this be the tipping point for vegetable-based diets? CNN recently revisited their interview with Clinton and also hosted the doctors that Clinton credits for his lifestyle change.