The Discerning Brute: fashion, food & etiquette for the ethically handsome man » cruelty-free

INTERVIEW: Fabrice Penot of Le Labo

joshuakatcher — Sat, 07 May 2011 01:02:24 +0000

by Joshua Katcher The sophisticated olfactory genius of Le Labo continues to impress most nostrils that come across it. In addition to their most recent writeup in the May issue of W, Le Labo has received international acclaim and garnered a cult following of obsessed aesthetes. From their stores in Paris, New York, Tokyo, Berlin, London, Amsterdam and every other major city you can think of, to Barney's and Colette, to their exclusive line for Anthropologie - the world of Le Labo fragrances is full of intrigue and desire; it is an art, a science, an obsession. I am reminded of the plot from Tom Robbin's Jitterbug Perfume where two of the main characters are questing for the mysterious secret ingredient to a 300-year-old fragrance that is believed to posses magical properties. And there is something magical about this brand. People are mad about Le Labo - and they aren't ashamed to drench themselves in the stuff, and fill their home with their candles, myself included. All of their perfumes are unisex; Rose 31 and Santal 33 are rituals to my day - and forgetting to spray some on often feels like I've left something crucial about myself at home. All of Le Labo's perfumes are 100% vegan - as are the founders Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi (all "musk" and other ingredients are synthesized) - two men that are changing the fragrance industry through their commitment to esthetic olfactology, the environment, and animals. (On a side note - I will be carrying the entire line of Le Labo on BraveGentleMan.com, and rumor has it that an exclusive fragrance for Brave GentleMan is in development. Shh..) I had a chance to interview Fabrice recently, and this was our conversation: Discerning Brute: What is it about fragrances, perfumes, odors, and smell that you love so much? Fabrice Penot: I am not sure... I think I like to express myself through perfume creation because there is something pretty magical by creating an emotion in people through something unseen. DB: What is your favorite bit of history about perfume, and how does that influence your work? FP: There are so many, but the one that pops into my mind since I guess we'll talk about animal products is the story of maybe the most mythical ingredient in fine perfumery which is "ambergris". Ambergris comes from the sperm whale - it smells of a magical thing that you can't really define, and you find yourself between disgust and attraction. There is a fecal part for sure, but there is also a soft, musky, very white part that is addictive. In a nustshell, this ingredient can be found on sea shores, as it is the result of the sperm whale's vomit (looks like a black stone, with the weight of a sponge). The magic happens while the floating "stone" travels on the ocean, being washed by the water, baked by the sun, and eventually ends on the sand near the coast, adding the marine and musky smell to the repulsive original smell of the rejection. Knowing that this has been used for decades in fine perfumery and that it was one of its most precious elements was always fascinating to me as a young perfume student. Even though you did not hurt the animal to produce this, (you actually don't even see him or her), nowadays the natural ambergris as been replaced by a synthetic version for perfumery use and Eddie, my creative partner, and I are using a lot in almost each one of our creations. Dirty musky notes are part of the secret of every sensual dry-down at Le Labo. DB: What is Le Labo, and why is it different from other brands? FP: The dirty musky note! And many other things, too - but I guess the more important one is the intention behind everything we do: we want to make the life of our clients more beautiful through our craft, perfume creation (and do no harm while doing so). Of course, there is a cult around our creations for what they are and we are proud of it, but I think at one point, people don't only buy what you do, they buy why you do it, and that would explain to me why our clients are so hooked with our creations. DB: Tell me about your relationship with animals and how that plays into your business? FP: I don't know how to answer that. I guess my relationship with animals changed when I understood my belief in and hope for global peace between humans was kind of useless because there was something about this humanity that was rotten in the first place - that mankind was just a piece of the puzzle, and that of course, there will be no peace between humans as long as they will not respect any kind of life on this planet. I understood you couldn't believe in the power of non violence and close your eyes to the violence created by your own life style, eating habits, shopping habits or even creation habits on other living things. I think the quote from Tolstoi was kind of a "a-hah" moment for me at that point: "As long as there are slaughterhouses, there will be battlefields "... And since then, I never looked at an animal the same way. I understood simply that I do not want to hurt anyone. I need peace and harmony for the world and I am hoping to start here, from my home, my family, my creations, my office, my business. So I became vegan a few seconds after I realized that. My girlfriend and I decided to jump together and all became very natural. Our children have been raised vegan. My friend and business partner Eddie is now vegan and deeply committed with me to change the habits of the perfume industry with the few animal ingredients still used, So I feel like the happiness and the beauty in my life comes from the coherence of everything around. DB: Is there a code of ethics that is followed at Le Labo concerning people, animals, and the environment? What is it and how to you make sure it is followed? FP: Well, not everyone in the company is vegan but i can tell you everyone cares. Not only because the owners both are, but also because when they live in the environment we built, they can feel the logic behind it. Everyone has a high level of compassion in our team, and there is no need to recall an ethic code or anything... we are a small company and you can tell when everyone is working with the same quality of intention. The only thing we do is we challenge our suppliers (or even new partners) to commit to cruelty-free ingredients and try to inspire perfumers by using synthetics over naturals for civette and castoreum. DB: What is something people need to know about the modern fragrance industry? FP: The good news is the industry is being more and more concerned about environment and cruelty issues.Mainly because of the pressure of consumers and I am glad that works. I am sure some big beauty corporations continue to test their cosmetic products (not perfumes necessarily, but creams for example) on animals secretly, but they know they are taking big risks with the public if this becomes known. I think in a near future this will not exist anymore - one big scandal would be enough to scare them all. We need a Wikileak on this to solve it. Unfortunately, I have no access to these infos, but what I can tell you is that in the world of perfumery, there are very few animal products left to be used by the perfumers. To my knowledge there is only 2 left: castoreum (which is a by product of beaver) and civette (from a little wild cat that is trapped to extract that smell). There are synthetics available for these 2 products and we are an active force to raise awareness in perfume houses for the use of synthetics over naturals for these ingredients. DB: How do people respond to different smells, and how does that influence your recipes? FP: A perfume is very personal. The sense of smell is very linked to your memories. You can love a fig smell because it relates to a happy memory in your childhood and in the same time I can hate it because my first girlfriend dumped me under a fig tree...you can't create a perfume anticipating people's reaction to it, you just try to reach a certain kind of esthetic, beauty, surprise, elegance, soul with the shape of it. Then, if it is well done, it will connect with the person at a deep emotional level and be worth existing. Or not... DB: Talk about your favorite aspect of the science and the chemistry involved in our attraction to certain smells. FP: I am not so much on the science part i have to say. Eddie my partner is a scientist by training (and a poet by choice) so he is more the one who is the expert of that. I am more into the intuitive search of the creation of an emotion. There is actually no science behind that apart from quantum physics maybe, but it is a posteriori, not a priori, meaning after the experience. DB: You also are very good with presentation - from packaging to the store interior design. How did yo develop this? FP: It is just Eddie and I trying to marry our love for industrial design, perfumery and the Japanese philosophy of wabi sabi, the art of impermanence. DB: Which scents do you recommend for men? FP: All our creations are genderless...but men might connect more with Rose 31, Bergamote 22, Vetiver 46 and our new Santal 33. DB: What music are you listening to, and food are you obsessed with right now? FP: Music ( as we speak): my morning jacket, food: Dr Cow's cheese and your seitan bourguignon!! DB: Why are you vegan? FP: Because i think it is key for us to stop taking advantage of other living creatures in the world if we want to see humanity evolve in a more peaceful and sustainable way. I think it might be the most important choice I ever made in my life. Not that I made a lot of them, but still...

Bright Happy Spring

joshuakatcher — Fri, 11 Mar 2011 23:54:34 +0000

This spring is going to be a colorful one. One of the big trends is to use bold, bright colors with abandon. Turk + Taylor's "Bioko" recycled hot-air-balloon windbreaker is now available online for $172. Made in San Francisco with nylon rip-stop (Each piece is unique and will vary drastically in color blocking.) Also don't forget to check the organic cotton board shorts or the colorful western shirt in "65% organic cotton, 35% recycled polyester. 100% OMG".

Anntian Spring’11, Eat the Living & Animal Rescue Corps

joshuakatcher — Fri, 04 Mar 2011 04:07:15 +0000

• ANNTIAN's Spring 2011 lookbook, inspired by the natural, ripe lushness of fruit, features bright colors, organic, lux textures and patters, and hints of psychedelic tribalism - an ode to the future hippie in a sane world. Anttian says "Behind this is our wish to touch on the subject of how important the relationship and behavior towards nature and food and "living together" is. Anntiain strives to use sustainable materials like organic cotton. • "Should we name them?" This was one of the first things one of the "foodies" asked before eating live lobster at 15 East for the sake of Zagat. Immediately the woman in the middle says, "No That will give them personality" and the man on the far right, "then there'll be a whole faction of PETA people that think we're terrible". Eating an animal while it's still squirming requires a serious disconnect, but even more-so, it requires a desire to be seen as controversial, edgy, experimental, brave and cool . The website challenges, "If you’re brave enough to experience it yourself, the special is $120 and feeds two." Listening to the people in the video fumble through rationalizations for doing this is amazing. See for yourself: This reminds me of the recent article, The Moral Crusade Against Foodies, by B. R. Myers, which is a must-read for anyone concerned with food and ethics issues. Image credit: John Cuneo

“A true gastronome,” according to a British dining manual of the time, “is as insensible to suffering as is a conqueror.” But for the past several decades, factory farms have made meat ever cheaper and—as the excellent book The CAFO Reader makes clear—the pain and trauma are thrown in for free. The contemporary gourmet reacts by voicing an ever-stronger preference for free-range meats from small local farms. He even claims to believe that well-treated animals taste better, though his heart isn’t really in it.

• I love the aesthetic of the Animal Rescue Corps. It's very effective, using a military-inspired logo and language like "serving" animals. The real heroism of this organization is showcased in their organized, rescue operations - and President Scotlund Haisley is certainly a Discerning Brute, with impressive and extensive experience in animal rescue, shelters, advocacy, fund-raising and legislation - even rehabilitating 11 of Michael Vick's dogs, and working to rescue of over 1,000 animals in post-Katrina New Orleans. With a focus on Puppy Mills, Companion Animal Abuse, Animals in Agriculture, and Animals in Research, the Animal Rescue Corps is a reserve of true heroes. Why not join them?

Lincoln Center Sustainable Fashion & PINNACLE

joshuakatcher — Tue, 15 Feb 2011 02:32:46 +0000

A photog from the RightyRightyRight fashion blog and zine snapped some photos of my rad outfit sponsored by CPas & NOVACAS at Lincoln Center, yesterday. In addition to the recycled-poly, hand-tailored blazer and vest, the organic cotton shirt and pants, the recycled-poly and recycled-cotton coat, the organic denim and vegan leather bag, and the NOVACAS vegan boots - I was wearing my April77 vegan biker jacket, carrying a Matt & Nat cruelty-free bag with recycled soda-bottle ultra-suede lining, and sporting my fav vintage sunglasses. This happened right before I went into Lincoln Center and got interviewed by Robert Verdi. I showed him the PINNACLE Mag, to which he said “I already have that“. I was wowed. Mr. Verdi, are you anti-fur yet? Huffington Post contributor, Andy Stepanian, wrote a really impressive article on PINNACLE: Reinvent The Icon today, featuring some of the amazing photos by Anthony Two Moons and Gregory Vaughan. PLease check it out and spread the word!

Striped Ties, Undercover Texans & No Snow Day for Horses

joshuakatcher — Fri, 28 Jan 2011 19:45:19 +0000

Daniel Hauff is a not a Texan, but he's sure got the mustache for it. In an article from the Dallas Voice (Read the full article HERE), Hauff recently describes his experience as a gay, vegan, undercover investigator in Texas - which is hostile territory for all three of those characteristics. Hoff is the national director of investigations for Mercy for Animals, and is up against some serious cultural differences when he goes undercover and releases investigations like the recent fish scandal in Texas, but he takes them in stride:

"The first undercover investigation for MFA that we did that was employment-based,” meaning operatives for MFA go undercover in slaughterhouses and other animal-based industries, applying for jobs and then cataloging abuses and law violations. On the last day of the investigation just concluded in Texas, Hauff himself was wired with a hidden camera, interacting with the people in the abattoir (though he admits his duties generally don’t put him undercover)."

. • I am loving the new, bold striped ties from Jaanj. With classic combos like blue and gold, red and white, and blue and white, you can't go wrong. Wear these with a solid shirt, and beneath a waistcoat for a more refined look. Also, the navy polka-dot bow tie is a fail-safe if you're considering trying something new. Learning how to tie a bow tie is a long-lost rite of passage, so get on it! These are all made from microfiber satin, so 3,000 silk worms were not boiled alive to make just one pound of silk. • Thanks to the efforts of Donny Moss, NYC's GOTHAMIST reported on a shameful and illegal display of cruelty over the last few days:

Carriage Horses Spotted Working Illegally During "Weather Emergency"

Director of Blinders, Donny Moss, wrote to us last night pointing out Mayor Bloomberg's declaration of a weather emergency yesterday, in which he stated: "Clearing the streets remains our number one job—and to do that, motorists should please, please refrain from driving." However, the carriage horses were still out there working hard, and Moss wonders "how the ASPCA could have possibly allowed them to leave their buildings this morning, given the Mayor's announcement, the dangerous conditions, and the law, which clearly states that horses should not be working under these conditions." Please leave a comment and let them know we appreciate their covering of this story.

Living Lean & Green in the New Year

JohnHolden — Wed, 05 Jan 2011 15:00:45 +0000

If your New Year's resolution is to be more conscious of your health, consider what you will wear when hitting the gym or yoga mat. "Satori" is a Japanese term for enlightenment. Make this the year of understanding and becoming aware of where and what your clothing is made from. The following eco-friendly designs are from the Satori Movement label. Full Spectrum Shorts: Laid-back Twill Short w/ Asymmetrical Side Zip Pockets, Built in Belt, and Satori Woven Label: 55% Hemp/ 45% Recycled PET, Conscious Yoga Bag: Canvas-100% Hemp, Mecca Pants: Fleece-55% Hemp/ 45% Organic Cotton-Sage, Chocolate, Black

Buy Shoes, Plant Trees

JohnHolden — Wed, 05 Jan 2011 07:00:05 +0000

After a Blizzard took over NYC, I'm already thinking about spring. Seeing some of the styles from myCATS, how could you not wait to slip in to some of these espadrilles. Along with all of the vibrant colors you can feel even better knowing that these eco-friendly kicks are handmade and they have partnered with the organization Tress for the Future. " For every shoe sold, myCATS will plant 2 trees in your name. These trees not only clean our air by reducing carbon emissions and fighting global warming, but also provide significant income and livelihood options for people. Trees provide medicine, beverages, fruit, soil fertility, erosion control and even something as simple as shade can help improve the quality of life for these people."

Keep These Shoes on Sale

JohnHolden — Thu, 30 Dec 2010 01:08:09 +0000

Keep Shoes is cool company that produces items with innovative, fashionable styles - and in even better news, according to their website: "All Keep products are cruelty free". These sweet moccasin, hi-top, buffalo check and fold-down kicks, as well as many other Keep styles are available on sale for a limited time at Jack Threads at around 50% off. Jack Threads is a Member-only site, so get your invitation by clicking here.