UMASAN Spring Summer 2015

-0--CH41sRxOGzLobWSAAn1Oyj7Cgw8DnSYdMxyWt1c Bc5ryE9v4SjnrmWNhUd1n3lNyGoJZ2zfUzsU4riFexM

UMASAN‘s presented their SS15 Collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin, offering up an “Urban Homage To The Freedom of The Nomadic, Bohemian Spirit”.

bpsfI2VbErq5qh9pPcEudSC22lrKOjfaWYIGIDfRBnY

An abandoned ice-rink with a live performance of Dante Alighieri’s work was the dramatic setting for the 4th successive season of the Award Winning high fashion, vegan brand UMASAN for their SS15 show, where the blending of genders was not so much a political statement as an embracing of a unisex future.
 TZnhH9yyC4Jgc4ESrknlJGd2HXPZXFwVEJw3bN1A0HwiQgNpfNZ5ba2yqUdHb1J5le2VDBxQqSWt8BZcU0deoM
The collection is an ode to the wandering traveller, a nomadic bohemian spirit intrinsic to the UMASAN DNA. However this journey was a spiritual one, a journey of self, almost dream like rather than a physical experience. Possibly a reference to Henry Miller, “one’s destination is never a place, but a way of seeing things.”
7cN--jMbg_Uc5bU0JyyFKbumhdMQA2BINKQdyLdZqFYVnlWHrILrcupyT9cLTLrTzsahD2DbW7jma11Q-eHh1E
The menswear collection is heavily influenced by luxe urban sportswear, with soft tailoring in the label’s staple fabrics of Tencel, SeaCell and cotton which offer free-flowing silhouettes that were styled with removable hood accessories and practical carryalls. A momentary slip, saw UMASAN’s strict palette of black and white confronted with a well-traveled, asymmetrical cut anorak in a rusted brown. The classic white shirt was injected with the quirky UMASAN touch, with off-centered buttons, while hooded sweat-shirts revealed edgy zip detailing at the back and t-shirts had lived-in slashed pockets.
oTSfk9dCb6_xjnZgfGv31wflhmVVdjmYnZ4RJS7SL0I
UMASAN, is the conceptual, vegan fashion brainchild of twin sisters, Anja and Sandra Umann, that has been on a roller coater of recognition since it’s launch in 2010. Widely known for their muted and austere, yet versatile and highly sophisticated ready-to-wear pieces they draw inspiration from the self and health style generation, yoga, art and literature. Sandra, a photographer, and Anja, ex designer for Yohji Yamamoto, combine their creative interests for a line that specialises in innovative materials, such as SeaCell and Tencel, together with interesting shapes to offer a fashion forward monochromatic aesthetic. There’s always something admirable when a label takes a forthright defiance and indifference to current fashion trends and this attitude and agenda is embodied in each of the predominantly masculine silhouettes boasting pristine German tailoring. It’s fun, unique and “the best black gear out there.”

 

 

Pharrell x G-Star Raw Team up with Sea Shepherd

Pharrellraw

Pharrell Williams, music industry giant and serial-collaborator is also owner of Bionic Yarn, and has partnered with G-Star Raw and Sea Shepherd’s Project Vortex to create a fashion line that is made from the recycled plastic waste accumulating in the oceans. An estimated 10 tons of recycled marine debris were used in created the collection. The collection will be available through G-Star this September.Pharrellraw4

Pharrellraw2 Pharrellraw3

 

 

NPR’s Special Series “Men in America” Looks At Vegans

NPR_group

Men in America is a special series from NPR’s show All Things Considered that “…explores what it means to be a man in America today.” I was contacted by producer Neda Ulaby not too long ago because a friend of hers had directed her to The Discerning Brute. Here at TDB we focus a decent amount of energy exploring masculinity and the evolving definition of manhood, especially as it relates to animal protection, social justice and environmental issues. It’s my opinion that mainstream masculinity, which could also be referred to as commercial masculinity (the beer-beef-boobs-and-ball masculinity sold to us via commercials and pop-culture) is a major roadblock to sustainability for its dominance in our political, economic and social culture and its shaming of compassion, thoughtfulness, nurturing and other characteristics that are relegated to the realm of women, the effeminate, and the irrational.

Please take a few minutes to join the conversation by listening to the show and sharing your thoughts in the comments below.

For a more in-depth look at this topic, please visit our other posts – including some video interviews – that explore this very important issue:

Featured in this episode of All Things Considered are:

Joshua Katcher founder/creative dir. of Brave GentleMan & founder/editor of The Discerning Brute.
thediscerningbrute.com
bravegentleman.com
Giacomo Marchese, competitive bodybuilder & founder of Plant-Built
facebook.com/VeganOlympia
Dominick Thompson, Healthcare Executive, triathlete & founder of Iron Brukal
ironbrukal.com/
Daniel Strong, chef & co-owner Chickpea & Olive
chickpeaandolive.com/
Cornell Ward, MMA fighter co-host Walking Alone Podcast
over9000blog.tumblr.com/

Vivienne Westwood “Moral Outrage” SS15

Vivienne Westwood’s SS15 show in Milan was all about being bold. Bold patterns and colors inspired by the pixelated graphics of 1970s arcade games – and a bold message: moral outrage at factory farming of animals. Partner Andreas Kronthaler says on their website, “Vivienne & I are both vegetarians but we are urging people who do eat meat to always find out where it is coming from and to avoid meat from animal factories.”

 https://www.viviennewestwood.com/sites/default/files/styles/catwalk_swiper/public/MAN_SS15_Catwalk_Imagery_LowRes_034.JPG?itok=N958MKRzhttps://www.viviennewestwood.com/sites/default/files/styles/catwalk_swiper/public/MAN_SS15_Catwalk_Imagery_LowRes_006.JPG?itok=7ySRUdmq

And backstage in an interview with Dazed, he also stated “It’s not just about pig farming but any animal farming. What’s going on out there is a disgrace. I’m a vegetarian and I don’t tell people not to eat meat but cutting down is not bad. One day a week makes a big difference, environmentally and even health-wise. The way we keep animals is awful,” Andreas Kronthaler said backstage. “For me as an activist, this is what an activist should look like – someone who cares about what’s going on out there.”

http://gq.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/XMTtjbm1pX2Ntc3BpY3R1cmU7aW1hZ2U7aWQ7NTY3OTU__W600H905R79BTRANSP___9af88254.jpghttp://gq.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/XMTtjbm1pX2Ntc3BpY3R1cmU7aW1hZ2U7aWQ7NTY4MDA__W600H905R79BTRANSP___1794fb5c.jpg

Wool Steps Up Greenwashing Campaign

The wool industry has put a lot of money – and a royal patron – behind new efforts to convince people that wool is sustainable.  But let’s get one thing out of the way, right away, ok? Telling people wool is green by building a PR campaign around burying it and celebrating its biodegradability is like telling people that beef is green by burying it and celebrating its biodegradability.

Let’s put on our greewashing goggles and take a closer look at this. The glaring problem is that it’s not the sheep’s hair per se that’s the environmental and ethical disaster. Instead, it’s the inextricable raising-of-the-livestock part. But take those goggles off and just shhhh because the wool industry doesn’t want to talk about that.

A campaign like this is so dangerous because it perpetuates a few myths that are sacred to the bottom-lines of the sheep and other livestock industries. Here are the top three myths:

MYTH #1: IT’S JUST HAIR.
Sheep don’t just spring-up from the ether with a thick coat of wool to shear off. They must be bred. Raised. Reared. Fed. Watered. Grazed or confined. Modified. Tracked. Measured. Processed. Shipped. Slaughtered.  The amount of resources it takes to produce livestock isn’t something to brush off. In fact, livestock are the single greatest cause of the worst environmental problems. Worse than the transportation sector. With around 1 billion sheep worldwide, consider the mind-boggling impacts on land, water, air and energy. The United Nation FAO certainly does.

http://www.petopia.sg/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Sheep-herd.jpg

MYTH #2: WOOL IS NATURAL AND BETTER THAN SYNTHETICS.
Don’t bet the farm on it. The thing about synthetics is that they are always becoming more efficient, more refined, and more scalable. For example, the company that makes lycra has developed a method of using fermented vegetation to produce one of the main ingredients. Researches in Japan have developed a bio-based polyester made from waste molasses. We have only scratched the surface of the potential of bioplastics.  Scalability is the issue when it comes to mass-production of textiles. Any time animals are put into a production model and scaled-up to meet massive demands, it is practically a law of business that corners are cut. The mantra of maximum profit at minimal cost has dire ramifications on both people and animals. The veterinary, social and psychological needs of animals continue to both humble us and evade inclusion in our business models that prefer to cast them a “units of production”. In addition, a lot of sheep are put in “sheep dip“, a bath of toxic chemicals (organophosphate pesticides (OPs)) to prevent infestations – and people are getting sick from it.

http://www.teara.govt.nz/files/p17444pc.jpg

MYTH #3: THE WOOL INDUSTRY IS A BUCOLIC FANTASY
Picture a wide open space. Lush and green. A few sheep speckle the landscape beyond a farmhouse – mother sheep with lambs, a few sheep lazing in the grass. A concerned shepherd watches on. Images like these are used all the time to represent the wool industry. But like all animal agriculture, modern techniques and increasing demands have changed our naive ideas about where wool comes from and also about how sheep “retire“. Instead picture this: sheep farms that are millions of acres large in China India and Australia. Mulesing, where strips of flesh are cut away from the behind of sheep without anesthesia. Castration. Live export on huge ships (see image below) with no food or water or veterinary care to the Middle East once the sheep is “spent”. Upon arrival they have their throats slit while still conscious (according to Halal and/or Kosher law). And the most depraved practice? Astrakhan (also know as Karakul) where either the fetus is cut out of the mother, or young infant sheep are skinned for one of the most desired luxury textiles in the world.

http://safe.org.nz/images.php?oid=4917