ROMBAUT 2016

rombautss16d

ROMBAUT envisions a future where man and machine form symbiotic hybrids – where exoskeletons enhance human physical performance. This is the concept for the spring 2016 collection of footwear; technical man-made materials combine with innovative organic materials to form an athletic, modern and experimental collection.

rombautss16b

“Our performance and our impact on our surroundings will be ever greater – the full convergence between body, technology and fashion will challenge our notions of where our body begins and ends. There is no longer any separation between our selves, what we wear and our environment.”

rombautss16c

rombautss16a

rombautss16

The future-scaping, Parisian shoe company does not disappoint with their autumn 2016 collection, either. Slick blacks, arctic whites and otherworldly metallics with pops of blue and tufts of fuzz come together in perfect balance.

rombautaw2016

This Doctor Wants to Find Out Why Men Are So Scared of Giving Up Meat

“In Western societies,” explains Dr. Attila Pohlmann, “masculine behavior is socially valued and needs to be on constant display in order to be validated”. Dr Pohlmann is currently crowdfunding a new Experiment.com project, entitled “Meat! Can manhood stomach the punch of the vegetarian alternative?“, which has almost reached it’s goal of $3000.

The experiment is designed to answer the questions: 1) Is there scientific support for the pervasive myth that red meat affords masculinity to consumers? 2) Would masculinity suffer psychologically and physiologically from the consumption of vegetarian alternatives? 3) Why do masculine persons highly value meat dishes, and which biological and psychological factors/processes motivate their preferences?

12377659_553584018138676_3683853740518516301_o

We at TheDiscerningBrute.com have been talking about the volatile link between meat and masculinity for years. Resident dietician Matt Ruscigno argued that we are Protein Obsessed, we were astonished to find out what happened to over 500 male inmates when 85% of a California prison went vegan.  We interviewed one of the world’s strongest men, Patrik Baboumian, about being both an ethical vegan and one of the most fearsome strongmen on the planet, and we contemplated how strongly the tools of meat preparation resonate with those seeking to exhibit masculine power.

The president-elect of the American College of Cardiology is vegan (as are some of his cardiologist colleagues), as are increasing numbers of men in hyper-masculine sports – from the NFL’s defensive lineman David Carter to NBA’s Ben Gordon to Crossfit coach and gym owner Ed Bauer and the entire Plant Built bodybuilding team. Even ex-military intelligence officer Damien Mander is vegan, who uses his training to protect endangered species. Hollywood heartthrob Liam Hemsworth famously went vegan recently, and even in nature, elephants, many gorillas, pandas, rhinos, horses and other powerful, muscular animals are mostly herbivorous. But despite all of this many people still believe the mythology that you need to eat muscle to become muscular. It’s an aesthetically irrational logic (it seems to make sense on a purely aesthetic level, like eating brains would make you smarter).

Since the Stone Age, the incorporation of meat has served both as a symbol and as a signal for masculinity. Today, meat still has the same meaning. Many men would gladly embrace the health risks associated with red meat rather than taking the slightest risk of being associated with the feminine attributes of a vegan diet. Meat consumption is often used to psychologically defend the ego against omnipresent threats to coveted masculine status.

Pohlmann’s team has already studied the psychological mechanisms underlying this phenomenon. With additional funding, the team intends to conduct saliva testing to expand on their initial findings using hormonal biomarkers, such as testosterone and cortisol.

In a previous experiment the researchers found that after consumers experience a threat to their masculinity, the availability of a meat pizza lowered their anxiety back to the level of an unthreatened control group. A vegetarian alternative presented to the threatened group did not produce the same anxiety-alleviating effect. The researchers hypothesize this effect is due to the masculinity-symbolizing power of meat, but want to conduct further research to partial out the psychological and physiological effects of meat consumption on masculinity.

With men being their primary target, many marketing messages promote meat consumption by exploiting masculine anxieties and fortifying an alleged natural link between meat consumption and manliness.

“The strongly pronounced gender-food linkage presents a dilemma for traditionally masculine persons when it comes to deciding what to eat. Consistently they choose the steak over the vegetarian alternative. Helping us to complete the picture of the psychological and physiological factors involved in this process will hopefully influence marketing messages about masculinity and meat consumption in socially beneficial ways,” says project leader Dr. Pohlmann.

While it is a staple method in medical and clinical research, salivary analysis has only become practical and affordable to social scientists in recent years.

In using Experiment to help raise the funds, Pohlmann and his colleagues are sharing progress reports in real-time. In return for backing the project, donors will also be recognized when the results are published in publicly accessible outlets. If fully funded, the project’s findings would have implications for psychology, food marketing, as well as studies in nutrition.

Help fund this study by clicking here.

ALSO SEE:
• The American Psycological Association published Real Men Don’t Eat (Vegetable) Quiche: Masculinity and the Justification of Meat Consumption by Hank Rothgerber.
• The University of Chicago Press’ Journal of Consumer Research highlighted the phenomenon of masculinity in association to meat: Why Do Male Consumers Avoid Vegetarian Options?
• The Discerning Brute on Masculinity & Meat

These vegan “leather” jackets made from cork are Germany’s most successful fashion crowdfunding ever

by Eric Mirbach

Acessories by vegan eco fashion brand bleed

When Michael Spitzbarth founded German streetwear brand bleed, he created the flagship of German eco-fashion brands – as in comparison with most of his colleagues, Spitzbarth took one aspect into consideration most other eco-brands choose to ignore: not only are all bleed products made from GOTS certified cotton or other sustainable materials in fair labor in Portugal, but the whole line has been a 100% vegan from day one.

The crowdfunding campaign Spitzbarth and his small team launched for their version of the classic black leather biker jacket made from dyed cork in 2015 went through the roof – the most successful German fashion crowdfunding of all time is a good example how innovative design and the use of surprising, superior materials can create attention.

Hi Michael, please introduce yourself and tell us a little something about your company bleed.

My name is Michael Spitzbarth, I’m the CEO as well as the head of design at bleed clothing. After majoring textile design, I worked as a freelancer  in that sector for a couple of years. I was able to take a close look of the machinations of the textile industry during that time and then finally decided it was time to create change. I founded my own brand in 2008 and the name says it all – bleed; because for our entire product-line, no human, animal or any part of mother nature has to suffer. I wanted no harm, no poison, no living being harmed in the process… that’s part of our DNA, anchored within the production of our goods through the entire supply-chain. Eco-friendly, vegan and fair production of GOTS certified sports- and streetwear straight from the heart of Upper Franconia.

Michael Spitzbarth, CEO of vegan eco fashion brand bleed

 

It’s safe to say that you’re one of Germany’s leading eco-fashion brands – all organic and sustainable and you’ve also been vegan forever. How come you go that extra mile?

First off, thanks for the compliment. To answer your question, it’s just common sense to not “just” go organic, but also fair and vegan. These three pillars are what bleed stands on. Sustainability and a fair production process, free from animal suffering, these things just go hand in hand.

Can you tell us more about your biker jacket, about the material and how all this came about?

We always saw a great potential in the use of cork – not just as an alternative for leather, but also as a sustainable substitute for already existing, toxic imitations. That is why we already used it for accessories and patches. But the idea to create even more items with this amazing material has always been in the back of our heads. We finally made that step with the Montado Black Edition, a fashion- and accessory collection with cork as the main constituent.

“Cork is the 21st Century version of leather”

https://www.bleed-clothing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/5/image/620x688.2/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/b/l/bleed_clothing_772_kork_jacket_black_edition.jpghttps://www.bleed-clothing.com/media/catalog/product/cache/5/thumbnail/620x688.2/040ec09b1e35df139433887a97daa66f/b/l/bleed_clothing_kork_jacke_detail_04.jpg

The highlights of this collection are the two vegan “leather” a.k.a cork jackets. They are as stylish as the original – but they’re the renewable and vegan version. All items are free from animal suffering, toxic chemicals and have not been made under exploitative working conditions. All of this makes cork the leather of the 21st century. It’s not just a sustainable resource with an extraordinary appearance, but it’s value to the environment is priceless as well. The bark of the Portuguese cork oat protects the land from erosion and increases the absorption of rainwater. Furthermore, it binds CO², a process which is even increased every nine years due to the peeling of the bark. The cork tree has all these great benefits and allows us to create these sustainable and vegan products. And we don’t to chop it down, either.

You put together the single most successful fashion crowdfunding in Germany for that jacket, is that right?

That is actually right, the Montado Black Edition became the most successful fashion crowdfunding in Germany. We collected close to € 74.000 , which was 14.000 more than we originally were hoping for. We are convinced of our products and their quality, of course – we wouldn’t sell them otherwise. But the success of the crowdfunding campaign still came as a bit of a surprise. It looks like the people were just waiting for a sustainable and vegan alternative and it’s overwhelming to see what has been set in motion here.

 

Acessories by vegan eco fashion brand bleed

How’s the general feedback? And did you get a lot of requests from mainstream media? Is that topic interesting?

Fortunately, most of the feedback we got was very positive. A lot of people who got in touch were simply surprised, what cork is actually capable of. The majority just didn’t expect that you can actually make clothes out of this material that seems a bit fragile at first glance. But after they’d touched it, they were all very positive.

Most people associate the material with corks for wine bottles or even floor tiles, which made it surprising for a lot of folks, so it wasn’t a topic for the sustainable media outlets only, but for mainstream media as well. We had a lot of press.

What do you answer when people claim that vegan items “try to emulate non-vegan ones”?

I would say that this is nonsense. Just because we don’t want anyone to suffer for our consuption, be it human beings, animal or nature, doesn’t mean we’re not allowed to dress stylishly. That has actually been one of our goals from the start: Prove that fashion can be both – sustainable and well, fashionable.

Visit the brand’s website: bleed-clothing.com

NBA’s Ben Gordon & NFL’s David Carter

ben-gordon_gw91bavpzk88zcqrupjjc5ij

Orlando Magic’s Ben Gordon sat down with Vice Sports and friends at the Los Angeles eatery Plant Food & Wine. Turns out he’s vegan and has a great sense of humor! Meanwhile, the Chicago Bears singed David Carter of The 300 Pound Vegan who recently graced the cover of LAIKA Magazine. You can hear Carter’s powerful interview on the Rich Roll Podcast.

11311256_1015850515112788_696550931_n

Fashion’s Biological Future is Now

safe_image-1by Joshua Katcher (also published on Huffington Post)

In an industry notorious for transience, flux and experimentation, it’s counterintuitive to consider that the fashion system is stuck in a rut when it comes to materials and real sustainability. Year after year, season after season, there’s this feeling of velocity, of working towards something better. Sure, there are a million ways a shirt can look, but if the way that shirt is made never changes, are things actually changing – or is it simply an illusion of progress?

Designers, press and editors alike continue to rationalize what happens to animals caught up in the fashion industrial complex as a necessary evil in achieving the highest quality, performance and most luxurious fibers, as if mother nature herself were meticulously positioning a leopard’s spots, arranging a reptiles scales or softening a goose’s down for the sole purpose of human use. And more often than not, the more rare an animal or cruel a process – from fetal lamb (also known as astrakhan or karakul) and calfskin (from veal calves) to angora and fur, the more heightened the perceived payoff will be. This is a strange psychological equation to say the least, but one that rules in the realm of luxury fashion. While animal agriculture is the single most environmentally problematic aspect of the fashion industrial complex, the choice to actually breed, farm, trap, confine and kill animals in order to attain their fibers will soon be obsolete thanks to a burgeoning sector of biofabrication startup businesses.

2015-07-24-1437765014-8619988-boltthreads.jpg
Image: boltthreads.com

Leather without cows? Shearling without sheep, silk without spiders and furs without foxes? At first glance, something sounds wrong about this. The word “unnatural” gets thrown around when criticizing the cellular farming, synthesizing or culturing of animal materials. We think of frightening laboratories, test tubes, and scientists crouched over bubbling chemicals who are ‘playing god’ or at least Dr. Frankenstein! Our food and clothing should be coming from those bucolic images we see in ads of the quintessential farm with a red barn and two or three happy sheep lazing in a field, right? We cling to the marketed myths of where animal products come from because the images of factory farms, fur farms, leather tanneries or commercial shearing operations are not likely to stir up nostalgia, legacy and heritage. Outrage would be a more accurate reaction, which is why the reality of these industries are kept hidden – and now with AgGag laws, its illegal in many states to even document what’s happening inside these operations.

2015-07-24-1437765051-2373783-bioloom.jpg
Image: Joshua Katcher at IndieBio with the BioLoom team, holding cellulose used in production.

Enter Bolt Threads, BioLoom, Modern Meadow, Biocouture, Pembient, and BioFur. They are among the existing and emerging synthethic biology companies who are redefining agriculture, textile manufacturing and the fashion industry in general through innovation on a systems level. Bolt Threads has already developed an exact replica of spider silk without spiders, as Bloomberg recently reported. Modern Meadow is developing lab-grown leather and Icelandic designer Ingvar Helgason is developing BioFur, which is lab-grown pelts. Pembient has grown Rhino Horn in the lab, and will soon take on elephant ivory, while Biocouture developed a leather-like cellulose and now is a biofabrication and design-application consultancy. BioLoom has taken on the water and pesticide-intensive conventional-cotton industry with lab-grown cotton. The exciting thing about all of these companies is that they are just scratching the surface. This is a field of development and production that will be endlessly customizable, increasingly efficient and high-performance, and inherently more sustainable and less cruel than raising animals to kill them.

This is why the fashion community must stop kowtowing to the most sluggish and démodé symbols of luxury: fur, leather and wool that are still grown on an animals’ back.

It seems that if you have an idea for creating sustainable animal products without actual animals, you’ll be in luck because a huge trend in the field of synthetic biology is taking the greatest causes of the worst environmental problems, like animal agriculture, and finding visionary solutions. IndieBio, the San Francisco-based synthetic biology accelerator, recently announced that it’s offering $250,000 in seed funding for people with ideas for these types of startups.

Mock-up of a Muufri synthetic milk carton - the company is aiming for a marketable product by summer of 2015It’s also happening with food. New Harvest, a nonprofit that describes itself as “advancing technologies to feed a growing global population”, has helped launch companies like Clara Foods. Clara foods makes real eggs without hens. New Harvest also led Muufri, a company engineering yeast to produce cows milk without cows, to a similar accelerator. Modern Meadow, in addition to leather, has developed cultured meat, as has Impossible Foods.

The Biofabricate conference, heading into its second year, is a fantastic way to place your finger on the pulse of this movement.

We are on the brink of an industrial revolution and cellular agriculture is at the center of it. Companies like Ouro Botics are figuring out ways to take these developments into our homes and places of work by combining 3D printing technology with Bioprinting, so we’ll soon be able to print three-dimensional objects with organic and biological materials. Electroloom is mastering the technology of spray-on clothing, so clothing could be made of healthy, organic substances that are recyclable or biodegradable and always fit. We have only scratched the surface of what is possible.

the ultimaker 1... great fun repairing... ;-) www.our-botics.comanother ear because we realised we needed two... www.our-botics.com