The Discerning Brute: fashion, food & etiquette for the ethically handsome man » grooming http://www.thediscerningbrute.com fashion, food & etiquette for the ethically handsome man Fri, 10 Feb 2012 00:51:26 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 INTERVIEW: Fabrice Penot of Le Labo http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2011/05/06/interview-fabrice-penot-of-le-labo/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2011/05/06/interview-fabrice-penot-of-le-labo/#comments Sat, 07 May 2011 01:02:24 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=6553 INTERVIEW: Fabrice Penot of Le Labo
by Joshua Katcher The sophisticated olfactory genius of Le Labo continues to impress most nostrils that come across it. In addition to their most recent writeup in the May issue of W, Le Labo has received international acclaim and garnered a cult following of obsessed aesthetes. From their stores in Paris, New York, Tokyo, Berlin, [...]]]> INTERVIEW: Fabrice Penot of Le Labo
by Joshua Katcher The sophisticated olfactory genius of Le Labo continues to impress most nostrils that come across it. In addition to their most recent writeup in the May issue of W, Le Labo has received international acclaim and garnered a cult following of obsessed aesthetes. From their stores in Paris, New York, Tokyo, Berlin, London, Amsterdam and every other major city you can think of, to Barney's and Colette, to their exclusive line for Anthropologie - the world of Le Labo fragrances is full of intrigue and desire; it is an art, a science, an obsession. I am reminded of the plot from Tom Robbin's Jitterbug Perfume where two of the main characters are questing for the mysterious secret ingredient to a 300-year-old fragrance that is believed to posses magical properties.  And there is something magical about this brand. People are mad about Le Labo - and they aren't ashamed to drench themselves in the stuff, and fill their home with their candles, myself included. All of their perfumes are unisex; Rose 31 and Santal 33 are rituals to my day - and forgetting to spray some on often feels like I've left something crucial about myself at home. All of Le Labo's perfumes are 100% vegan - as are the founders Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi (all "musk" and other ingredients are synthesized) - two men that are changing the fragrance industry through their commitment to esthetic olfactology, the environment, and animals. (On a side note - I will be carrying the entire line of Le Labo on BraveGentleMan.com, and rumor has it that an exclusive fragrance for Brave GentleMan is in development. Shh..) I had a chance to interview Fabrice recently, and this was our conversation: Discerning Brute: What is it about fragrances, perfumes, odors, and smell that you love so much? Fabrice Penot: I am not sure... I think I like to express myself through perfume creation because there is something pretty magical by creating an emotion in people through something unseen. DB: What is your favorite bit of history about perfume, and how does that influence your work? FP: There are  so many, but the one that pops into my mind since I guess we'll talk about animal products is the story of maybe the most mythical ingredient in fine perfumery which is "ambergris".  Ambergris comes from the sperm whale - it smells of a magical thing that you can't really define, and you find yourself between disgust and attraction. There is a fecal part for sure, but there is also a soft, musky, very white part that is addictive. In a nustshell, this ingredient can be found on sea shores, as it is the result of the sperm whale's vomit (looks like a black stone, with the weight of a sponge). The magic happens while the floating "stone" travels on the ocean, being washed by the water, baked by the sun, and eventually ends on the sand near the coast, adding the marine and musky smell to the repulsive original smell of the rejection. Knowing that this has been used for decades in fine perfumery and that it was one of its most precious elements was always fascinating to me as a young perfume student. Even though you did not hurt the animal to produce this, (you actually don't even see him or her), nowadays the natural ambergris as been replaced by a synthetic version for perfumery use and Eddie, my creative partner, and I are using a lot in almost each one of our creations. Dirty musky notes are part of the secret of every sensual dry-down at Le Labo. DB: What is Le Labo, and why is it different from other brands? FP: The dirty musky note! And many other things, too - but I guess the more important one is the intention behind everything we do: we want to make the life of our clients more beautiful through our craft, perfume creation (and do no harm while doing so). Of course, there is a cult around our creations for what they are and we are proud of it, but I think at one point, people don't only buy what you do, they buy why you do it, and that would explain to me why our clients are so hooked with our creations. DB: Tell me about your relationship with animals and how that plays into your business? FP: I don't know how to answer that. I guess my relationship with animals changed when I understood my belief in and hope for global peace between humans was kind of useless because there was something about this humanity that was rotten in the first place - that mankind was just a piece of the puzzle, and that of course, there will be no peace between humans as long as they will not respect any kind of life on this planet. I understood you couldn't believe in the power of non violence and close your eyes to the violence created by your own life style, eating habits, shopping habits or even creation habits on other living things. I think the quote from Tolstoi was kind of a "a-hah" moment for me at that point: "As long as there are slaughterhouses, there will be battlefields "... And since then, I never looked at an animal the same way. I understood simply that I do not want to hurt anyone. I need peace and harmony for the world and I am hoping to start here, from my home, my family, my creations, my office, my business. So I became vegan a few seconds after I realized that. My girlfriend and I decided to jump together and all became very natural. Our children have been raised vegan. My friend and business partner Eddie is now vegan and deeply committed with me to change the habits of the perfume industry with the few animal ingredients still used, So I feel like the happiness and the beauty in my life comes from the coherence of everything around. DB: Is there a code of ethics that is followed at Le Labo concerning people, animals, and the environment? What is it and how to you make sure it is followed? FP: Well, not everyone in the company is vegan but i can tell you everyone cares. Not only because the owners both are, but also because when they live in the environment we built, they can feel the logic behind it. Everyone has a high level of compassion in our team, and there is no need to recall an ethic code or anything... we are a small company and you can tell when everyone is working with the same quality of intention. The only thing we do is we challenge our suppliers (or even new partners) to commit to cruelty-free ingredients and try to inspire perfumers by using synthetics over naturals for civette and castoreum. DB: What is something people need to know about the modern fragrance industry? FP: The good news is the industry is being more and more concerned about environment and cruelty issues.Mainly because of the pressure of consumers and I am glad that works. I am sure some big beauty corporations continue to test their cosmetic products (not perfumes necessarily, but creams for example) on animals secretly, but they know they are taking big risks with the public if this becomes known. I think in a near future this will not exist anymore - one big scandal would be enough to scare them all.  We need a Wikileak on this to solve it. Unfortunately, I have no access to these infos, but what I can tell you is that in the world of perfumery, there are very few animal products left to be used by the perfumers. To my knowledge there is only 2 left: castoreum (which is a by product of beaver) and civette (from a little wild cat that is trapped to extract that smell). There are synthetics available for these 2 products and we are an active force to raise awareness in perfume houses for the use of synthetics over naturals for these ingredients. DB:  How do people respond to different smells, and how does that influence your recipes? FP: A perfume is very personal. The sense of smell is very linked to your memories. You can love a fig smell because it relates to a happy memory in your childhood and in the same time I can hate it because my first girlfriend dumped me under a fig tree...you can't create a perfume anticipating  people's reaction to it, you just try to reach a certain kind of esthetic, beauty, surprise, elegance, soul with the shape of it. Then, if it is well done, it will connect with the person at a deep emotional level and be worth existing. Or not... DB: Talk about your favorite aspect of the science and the chemistry involved in our attraction to certain smells. FP: I am not so much on the science part i have to say. Eddie my partner is a scientist by training (and a poet by choice) so he is more the one who is the expert of that. I am more into the intuitive search of the creation of an emotion. There is actually no science behind that apart from quantum physics maybe, but it is a posteriori, not a priori, meaning after the experience. DB: You also are very good with presentation - from packaging to the store interior design. How did yo develop this? FP: It is just Eddie and I trying to marry our love for industrial design, perfumery and the Japanese philosophy of wabi sabi, the art of impermanence. DB: Which scents do you recommend for men? FP: All our creations are genderless...but men might connect more with Rose 31, Bergamote 22, Vetiver 46 and our new Santal 33. DB: What music are you listening to, and food are you obsessed with right now? FP: Music ( as we speak): my morning jacket, food: Dr Cow's cheese and your seitan bourguignon!! DB: Why are you vegan? FP: Because i think it is key for us to stop taking advantage of other living creatures in the world if we want to see humanity evolve in a more peaceful and sustainable way. I think it might be the most important choice I ever made in my life. Not that I made a lot of them, but still...]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2011/05/06/interview-fabrice-penot-of-le-labo/feed/ 2 Snack Attack, Nude Attitude, Man Tools & The Cost of Cheap Clothes http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/26/snack-attack-nude-attitude-man-tools-the-cost-of-cheap-clothes/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/26/snack-attack-nude-attitude-man-tools-the-cost-of-cheap-clothes/#comments Sun, 26 Dec 2010 21:39:43 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=6042 Snack Attack, Nude Attitude, Man Tools & The Cost of Cheap Clothes
• The simplicity of a henley is a thing of beauty. Practical, utilitarian, and handsome whether you layer it with an organic plaid shirt, or wear it on it's own. When that henley is fairly-made in Italy  or Portugal from organic cotton, it's also a thing of ethical handsomeness. While I wish on all my [...]]]> Snack Attack, Nude Attitude, Man Tools & The Cost of Cheap Clothes
• The simplicity of a henley is a thing of beauty. Practical, utilitarian, and handsome whether you layer it with an organic plaid shirt, or wear it on it's own. When that henley is fairly-made in Italy  or Portugal from organic cotton, it's also a thing of ethical handsomeness. While I wish on all my lucky-charms that Nudies would stop using cruel and ecologically devastating leather for their denim tags and jackets, I am happy when they have items like this that are leather-free. (Don't they know about all the cutting-edge, supple faux-leathers made from recycled soda bottles, TV's, or in closed-loop Japanese factories?). Nudie does, however, have an amazing human rights program set up with Amnesty International - that with the purchase of any one of their organic cotton "Human Rights Tees", 10 Euros gets donated to AI. They've got some pretty cool designs, as well. Axel Grandpa PD Organic Nudie JeansSigvard Organic Canvas Check Nudie Jeans Human Rights Tee )26 Nudie JeansHuman Rights Tee )27 Nudie Jeans • Is cheap denim worth burning young women to death? Most people would say no - but our shopping habits speak otherwise. On December 15th, 2010, a multi-story sweatshop making clothes for notorious sweatshop slumlords, The Ha-meem Group (employed by GAP Inc., Wrangler jeans, JC Penney, Target, Abercrombie & Fitch, H&M, Walmart, Kohl's, Sears, Next and Osh Kosh B'Gosh, trapped and killed at least 29 workers in Bangladesh. The unsafe and unchecked conditions in the sweatshop prevented these mostly young girls from making a safe escape, as exists are commonly locked from the outside to prevent people from taking breaks. Many were burned alive, and many jumped to their death. To add insult to injury, "...the workers who were burned alive were likely being paid some $24 a month, less than $1 a day," according to Change.org. http://laborrightsblog.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341bf90b53ef0147e0c42f47970b-pi The disconnect we have concerning where our clothes come from is shameful, but understandable considering the epic propaganda and marketing machine that tells well-funded myths about cheap clothes. Between 2006 and 2009, 414 workers died in 213 factory fires. This latest fire at the Ha-Meem Group factory was not the first one to occur this year either - and famous factory fires that kill poor people or immigrants have a well-documented history. If you unwrapped a Christmas present from any one of these companies yesterday, or plan on going to the mall to spend gift-certificates, I would seriously consider using the opportunity to return items, speak to a managers, write letters, or otherwise voice your outrage. Lastly, please Sign The Petition to demand that these manufacturers at least compensate families of the victims. * If you are designer or work with any of these companies - check out the amazing work that Made-By is doing, and find out how to get the button sewn into your label! • Snack Attack! I am drooling like a rescued pitbull just thinking about these new snacks! The vegan mozzarella-style sticks from Chicago Soy Dairy's Teese line offers 15 sticks for 6 bucks  - that ain't bad at all. Then, squeeze some of Tiger Tiger's flavored vegan mayo on your favorite sandwich or burger, and for dessert, how about some raw, Nutella-inspired Rawtella over  ice cream or in a cookie sandwich? Breaded Teese Cheese Mozzarella Sticks by Chicago SoydairyRawtella Organic Raw Chocolate Hazelnut Spread Vegan Flavored Mayonnaise by Tiger Tiger • Man Tools from Jack Black are a sure way to keep a well-groomed face and handsome conscious. A cruelty-free and Men's Health Magazine award-winning lather-brush designed to both meet and exceed the performance of Silver Tip Badger hair, and a razor-sharpener that extends the life of any razor are often hard to find, but here they are: ]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/26/snack-attack-nude-attitude-man-tools-the-cost-of-cheap-clothes/feed/ 3 Dirty Ass Soap http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/17/dirty-ass-soap/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/17/dirty-ass-soap/#comments Fri, 17 Dec 2010 19:18:08 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=5973 Dirty Ass Soap
Washing your mouth out with soap just got irresistable - visually at least. Have you ever wanted to rub s'mores, sushi, Swedish Fish, Oreos, pound-cake, Rice Crispy Treats, Ramen Noodles, or a full three-course brunch all over your body? Even in the special places? No? Well what about a Nintento Controller, dentures, puzzle pieces, or [...]]]> Dirty Ass Soap
Washing your mouth out with soap just got irresistable - visually at least. Have you ever wanted to rub s'mores, sushi, Swedish Fish, Oreos, pound-cake, Rice Crispy Treats, Ramen Noodles, or a full three-course brunch all over your body? Even in the special places? No? Well what about a Nintento Controller, dentures, puzzle pieces, or the soap from Fight Club? It's your lucky day. New York State crafters, Dirty Ass Soaps, allows you to stay clean with a sense of humor. All vegan, of course. READY TO SHIP for Christmas - Fight Club - vegan soap - unofficial - parody READY TO SHIP for Christmas - S'mores - vegan soap READY TO SHIP for Christmas - Combination Ikura and Tamago - vegan soap set READY to SHIP for Christmas - NES Original Nintendo Controller in Mountain Dew - vegan soap - Parody READY TO SHIP for Christmas - Krispie Rice Squares - vegan soap READY TO SHIP for Christmas - Ramen Noodles - vegan soap READY TO SHIP for Christmas - Organic Oreos - vegan soap READY TO SHIP for Christmas - Jaw Dropping - vegan soap ]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/17/dirty-ass-soap/feed/ 2 Smells Like Crap & Tastes Like Coffee http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/05/smells-like-crap-tastes-like-coffee/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/05/smells-like-crap-tastes-like-coffee/#comments Sun, 05 Dec 2010 08:42:14 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=5726 Smells Like Crap & Tastes Like Coffee
The Civet Cat is a rather cute animal. Sort of cat-like, but actually from the Viverridae family - the animal is native to Africa, Madagascar, the Iberian Peninsula, southern China, and Southeast Asia. Strangely, we humans have taken a liking to this fuzzy critters poop and anal gland secretions. We've been wearing it in our [...]]]> Smells Like Crap & Tastes Like Coffee
Civet The Civet Cat is a rather cute animal. Sort of cat-like, but actually from the Viverridae family - the animal is native to Africa, Madagascar, the Iberian Peninsula, southern China, and Southeast Asia. Strangely, we humans have taken a liking to this fuzzy critters poop and anal gland secretions. We've been wearing it in our fragrances and drinking coffee beans that pass through (if you know what I mean). The smelly stuff, which is also called civet, that comes out of the perineal glands (near the anus) is quite musky and acts as a stabilizing agent in fragrances - it extends the life of the overall smell, their olfactory duration, if you will. Left to itself in nature, the musk is very offensive, has been known to induce vomiting in humans, and can smell for up to four months. In order to harvest the secretion, the civet must be killed or have the thick, yellow grease painfully scraped from the gland's anal sac. The civet’s secretions must be combined with alcohol and other chemicals to bring out its “pleasant musky odor".  It is rumored that civet cats produce more secretions when they are under stress, so many of the farmers hit their cages to keep them scared. Fortunately, synthetic civetone has been synthesized from precursor chemicals found in palm oil, but many supposed “high-quality” perfume manufacturers still prefer torturing these unfortunate and smelly animals. There are other animals also used for their smells. And if you didn't think this poor animal already had it tough, people have been drinking incredibly expensive coffee that has been shat out after these guys eat the coffee cherries. It sorta looks like a Babe Ruth bar, no? At first, people collected the wild droppings, but now they've realized that farming the civets yields greater revenue. The whole demand for the crappuccino comes from the distinct and rare flavor that occurs from the fermentation process inside the civets stomach. Now, I know there are people out there who are scientists. Can't you think of more intelligent way to ferment coffee cherries? Fortunately, someone has done just that. According to poopcoffee.com, "The Trung Nguyen Coffee Company hired a German scientist to research the chemical processes that occur in the Civet’s stomach, and in 1996 scientists were able to isolate six specific digestive enzymes and then use these enzymes to create a synthetic soak known as Legendee, which they patented. " When you cage a wild animal, you prevent it from doing  anything that nature intended it to do. It is emotional and physical torture for wild animals to be locked up - and this is no exception, no matter how delicious the coffee tastes, it's still shitty. No matter how amazing the fragrance smells, it's still shitty. Free the civet cats!
New York Times: A civet farm in Liwa, a town in Sumatra, where the catlike animals eat coffee cherries. Their droppings contain coffee beans fermented in their stomachs.
]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/05/smells-like-crap-tastes-like-coffee/feed/ 6 Fall’s Positive http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/08/18/falls-positive/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/08/18/falls-positive/#comments Wed, 18 Aug 2010 21:53:43 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=4962 Fall’s Positive
• I like this organic cotton crewneck sweater from EDUN. $258 EDUN is a contemporary lifestyle brand founded by Bono and Ali Hewson with the mission to encourage trade in Africa and build awareness of what is possible there. • Portland General Store's grooming products are worth more than a few bucks. From rhassoul mud [...]]]> Fall’s Positive
• I like this organic cotton crewneck sweater from EDUN. $258 EDUN is a contemporary lifestyle brand founded by Bono and Ali Hewson with the mission to encourage trade in Africa and build awareness of what is possible there. 5200109aa-263_front
• Portland General Store's grooming products are worth more than a few bucks. From rhassoul mud cleansing balls and whiskey and tobacco aftershave to smelling salts and plant-based fragrances - their vegan range is suitable for any rugged gent. *Not all their products are vegan, please read the labels. All listed below are vegan:
WHISKEY natural aftershave splash with sea minerals - veganTHICK - natural thickening shampoo with palo santo and marula oil - vegan, paraben and sulfate freeeau de toilette SAMPLES - all fragrancesEUCALYPTUS smelling salts - cold and sinus treatmentFACE BOMB - natural, vegan rhassoul mud cleansing ball • We're not kids anymore. The truth behind forcing animals to perform in the circus is as sickening as it is silly. We know that an elephant is a huge, intelligent, emotional animal whose needs and desires far exceed what an abusive and confining life behind bars and balancing on balls can provide. Our pal Gary Smith takes a stab at the most horrible show on earth, Ringling Bros in his new article. Check it out why circus' using animals are indefensible. Illustration of a crying circus elephant • Black & Noir's offers this 100% organic cotton twill jacket in gray, made in Canada. $412 Blanc & Noir Cotton Twill Jacket in GreyBlanc & Noir Cotton Twill Jacket in Grey]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/08/18/falls-positive/feed/ 0 Celery Hard-On, Our Legacy, and Black & Noir http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/05/17/our-legacy-black-noir/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/05/17/our-legacy-black-noir/#comments Mon, 17 May 2010 14:30:00 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=4311 Celery Hard-On, Our Legacy, and Black & Noir
• All of you Discerning Brutes out there know how difficult it is to find menswear that is distinctive, well-made, ethical, and classic. Our Legacy is a Swedish line featuring thoughtfully tailored shirting, suiting, knitwear and more. Their blazers are versatile, and cut short. Many of their shirts are inspired by cuts from the 1940's. [...]]]> Celery Hard-On, Our Legacy, and Black & Noir
• All of you Discerning Brutes out there know how difficult it is to find menswear that is distinctive, well-made, ethical, and classic. Our Legacy is a Swedish line featuring thoughtfully tailored shirting, suiting, knitwear and more. Their blazers are versatile, and cut short. Many of their shirts are inspired by cuts from the 1940's. They do have several ethical options, including a naturally dyed, oak-buttoned blazer in hemp, a linen bomber-jacket in navy, dead-stock shirts, shirts in organic cotton, and hemp shorts and trousers in olive and camel. Everything is sweatshop-free; designed in Sweden, constructed in Portugal with Japanese fabric. I really hope to see more and more sustainable fabrics added to future collections, and for these Stockholm designers to ditch leather (why, you ask?). http://4pack.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/celery2.jpg• Admit it, celery gives you a hard-on. A new study concluded that eating lots of celery is like "Vegetable Viagra". It contains androstenone, a natural steroid that increases pheromone secretion, sex drive, and ups the amount of ejaculatory fluids, making climax stronger. Of course, this is not news to you guys who already know that diets heavy in meat and dairy have been linked to poor sperm quality, prostate cancer, and erectile dysfunction. Contrary to popular belief, the male hormone testosterone that determines sexual development and interest has been found to be 13 % higher in vegans than in meat-eaters. . • You're in a rush (again), and your hair is a greasy mess. It's okay, we all do it; there's no time for a shower. So, do you throw on a baseball cap and throw in the flag? Certainly not! You use organic, dry shampoo! It's only tested on human heads, is talc-free and scented with earthy essential oils, and takes care of greasy, oily buildup. From Lulu Organics. Comes in a handy travel-size, too! $40 for the huge one, and $9.50 for the mini. http://www.luluorganicsnyc.com/luluorganics_hairpowder.jpghttp://www.luluorganicsnyc.com/travel_big.jpg • Nothing beats a beat-up, super soft tee in spring, summer or underneath a button-down. Ultrasoft, 100% organic cotton V-necks from Black & Noir  - $58 at blackbirdballard.com Blanc & Noir Short Sleeve V Neck Tee in GreyBlanc & Noir Short Sleeve V Neck Tee in Haze]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/05/17/our-legacy-black-noir/feed/ 4 The Handy Dandy, Dandy http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/03/03/the-handy-dandy-dandy/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/03/03/the-handy-dandy-dandy/#comments Wed, 03 Mar 2010 18:59:58 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=3118 The Handy Dandy, Dandy
by Joshua Katcher What did Beau Brummell, Lord Byron, Oscar Wilde, and Balzac's Henri de Marsay all have in common? They were "metrosexual" before the 20th century. They were "hipsters" before Williamsburg Brooklyn, Studio 54, and the sub-culture explosions during the last half of the 20th century.  A traditional dandy was basically a dude who [...]]]> The Handy Dandy, Dandy
by Joshua Katcher What did Beau Brummell, Lord Byron, Oscar Wilde, and Balzac's Henri de Marsay all have in common? They were "metrosexual" before the 20th century. They were "hipsters" before Williamsburg Brooklyn, Studio 54, and the sub-culture explosions during the last half of the 20th century.  A traditional dandy was basically a dude who took care of his physical appearance meticulously and with intention. Like Brummel's famous trousers, his abandonment of the wig and powder, and his more subtle yet careful appearance which led to what we consider classic menswear, he set fashion trends. Grooming, dressing, and accessorizing paired with a taste for intellectualism, leisure, and an air of stoic, collected, self-assurance may have been one of the first cultural attempts of what we now consider being "cool". Often, the dandy aimed to infiltrate the upper-class, typically having been born into middle-class families. Blending-in with aristocrats, and being artists or poets, like Charles Pierre Baudelaire, gave the dandy a political edge and helped break down class separation, but some (usually those whose positions of power they threatened to acquire) accused the dandy of simply worshiping the self, or making a religion out of aesthetic hedonism. For Oscar Wilde and Lord Byron, who would have been the subjects of gossip rags today, the status of the Dandy required an audience and certainly laid the groundwork for our modern celebrities. http://www.charlesdickensonline.com/Favorites/images/f283.gif But was there something revolutionary (or at least subversive) about the rise of the dandy? Here was a society of bloodline aristocrats and the bourgeois whose main identifier was the way they looked and the activities they participated in, that was suddenly being threatened by stealthy, self-made, middle-class individuals armed with art and poetry and philosophy and dangerous politics who dressed well! Their prowess was "based on nothing at all" as J.A. Barbey d'Aurevilly observed about their genetic inheritance in 1845, but for French-revolution dandies who hung out in the bohemian quarters, they were celebrated for being radicals and breaking traditional boundaries designed by the bourgeois. They aimed to exude contempt for bourgeois society by imitating their dress code. The rock-stars of the late 1800's were dandy poets whose subversive lyrics had incredible social impact. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/1/10/Montesquiou%2C_Robert_de_-_Boldini.jpgFile:BrummellEngrvFrmMiniature.jpg Being a dandy can come in handy - especially if you have a political agenda. This scenario often makes me wonder what would happen if everyone showed up to a massive protest in a suit and tie (as opposed to cargo pants and slogan tee-shirts). The police would certainly be confused and the politicians would certainly feel threatened that the most obvious thing separating them from those at the bottom of the ladder was no longer there. Don't get me wrong, I completely understand why so many people want nothing to do with (never mind mimic!) those in power. But within this scenario, we can see the power that fashion has in the realm of visual communication. There is a mainstream visual hierarchy that we play right into by not giving a crap about appearance. On a level of self, this is fine, but if your aim is to influence others and communicate with the mainstream, it helps to put your message in a handsome package that gives it a better chance of being listened to. File:Dandies of 1831.jpg Looking good and kicking ass is stuff of myth, but James Bond doesn't own the idea. So put on a tie and go save the world, already!  And also check out the amazing and hilarious Yes Men who use the suit to subvert: ]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/03/03/the-handy-dandy-dandy/feed/ 1 Etsy is for Dudes, Sundance Fur Fest & Futher Spillage http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/02/23/etsy-is-for-dudes-sundance-fur-fest-futher-spillage/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/02/23/etsy-is-for-dudes-sundance-fur-fest-futher-spillage/#comments Tue, 23 Feb 2010 22:12:22 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=3532 Etsy is for Dudes, Sundance Fur Fest & Futher Spillage
• We have green souls, right? Rachel Comey is back with more Vegan Spillers. This time, the cap-toe oxfords are in a beige canvas upper with a green sole. $208 at Steve Alan • Planet Green weighs in on, the horror!!! - living without your Blackberry. "I was like Gollum in the Lord of the [...]]]> Etsy is for Dudes, Sundance Fur Fest & Futher Spillage
• We have green souls, right? Rachel Comey is back with more Vegan Spillers. This time, the cap-toe oxfords are in a beige canvas upper with a green sole. $208 at Steve Alan

• Planet Green weighs in on, the horror!!! - living without your Blackberry. "I was like Gollum in the Lord of the Rings, devoted to fondling My Precioussssss." http://blackberrysync.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/08/adrianfenty1.jpg • SUNDANCE FUR FESTIVAL : Heartless or Stupid? We know it's hard for celebs to express how rich they are, but you'd think the creators of the The Green would have an anti-fur policy at their festival. Sundance has become known for it's unhealthy association with fur-drenched celebs strutting around like idiots, literally. I mean you either have to not know how it's made, or not have a heart. Usually the ladies are taking heat for wearing fur, but check out these images of some less-than-men I'd like to sic Mac Danzig on: Ashton Kutcher, Wesley Snipes, Nick Cannon, and Nick Hogan, all from the Sundance Film Festival in 2010. Find out what you can to help end this archaic industry. Wesley Snipes Nick CannonNick Hogan

• Six Reasons for Dudes to Hit on Etsy

1. Shoot dirt dead with gun soap scented with black tea! Practice your best Dirty Harry while scrubbing your hairy-dirty areas. vegan glycerin soap base and scented with black tea. $8.50 Gun Soap- Man Soap Set of 3 2. Yes, it's OK to embrace the murse. But call it a portfolio and you'll sound so much manlier. UNI-LAP portfolio case, vinyl $125 UNI-LAP / wheat with brown 3. Find great one-of-a-kind vintage like this Vintage Tan Faux-Suede Jacket $40 Vintage Vegan Unisex Suede Jacket 4. Don't Hurt the Bean Curd! Clever and/or offensive Organic cotton items like Tofu Never Screams and Small Hanging Wang Underwear! Also Skeletons and wings always make gentlemen happy. Mens Organic Cotton Tshirt in Oatmeal feat. Ringen print in Deep Red Sz LARGEMens Organic Cotton Tshirt in Oatmeal feat. Aile Noir print in Brows Sz MEDIUMSmall Hanging WangTofu Never Screams Organic Mens T-Shirt 5. Find rebellious ties and bow-ties from Toybreaker. Silk-like microfiber and nontoxic water-based inks, $10- $40 Crash. Black bow tie, freestyle. Silkscreened shattered glass.James Dean screenprinted microfiber necktieCut Throat, skinny microfiber necktie, black or redBlack widow spider necktie. Choose skinny, narrow, or standard width.Gasmask silkscreened microfiber necktiePirate wedding tie package - 6 skull groomsmen microfiber neckties, wedding discount 6. Stinky Bomb Lip Balm! Place some explosive kisses on your lover: candelilla wax, coconut oil and sweet almond oil, 5$ Blanks]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/02/23/etsy-is-for-dudes-sundance-fur-fest-futher-spillage/feed/ 4