The Discerning Brute: fashion, food & etiquette for the ethically handsome man » social responsibility

INTERVIEW: Fabrice Penot of Le Labo

joshuakatcher — Sat, 07 May 2011 01:02:24 +0000

by Joshua Katcher The sophisticated olfactory genius of Le Labo continues to impress most nostrils that come across it. In addition to their most recent writeup in the May issue of W, Le Labo has received international acclaim and garnered a cult following of obsessed aesthetes. From their stores in Paris, New York, Tokyo, Berlin, London, Amsterdam and every other major city you can think of, to Barney's and Colette, to their exclusive line for Anthropologie - the world of Le Labo fragrances is full of intrigue and desire; it is an art, a science, an obsession. I am reminded of the plot from Tom Robbin's Jitterbug Perfume where two of the main characters are questing for the mysterious secret ingredient to a 300-year-old fragrance that is believed to posses magical properties. And there is something magical about this brand. People are mad about Le Labo - and they aren't ashamed to drench themselves in the stuff, and fill their home with their candles, myself included. All of their perfumes are unisex; Rose 31 and Santal 33 are rituals to my day - and forgetting to spray some on often feels like I've left something crucial about myself at home. All of Le Labo's perfumes are 100% vegan - as are the founders Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi (all "musk" and other ingredients are synthesized) - two men that are changing the fragrance industry through their commitment to esthetic olfactology, the environment, and animals. (On a side note - I will be carrying the entire line of Le Labo on BraveGentleMan.com, and rumor has it that an exclusive fragrance for Brave GentleMan is in development. Shh..) I had a chance to interview Fabrice recently, and this was our conversation: Discerning Brute: What is it about fragrances, perfumes, odors, and smell that you love so much? Fabrice Penot: I am not sure... I think I like to express myself through perfume creation because there is something pretty magical by creating an emotion in people through something unseen. DB: What is your favorite bit of history about perfume, and how does that influence your work? FP: There are so many, but the one that pops into my mind since I guess we'll talk about animal products is the story of maybe the most mythical ingredient in fine perfumery which is "ambergris". Ambergris comes from the sperm whale - it smells of a magical thing that you can't really define, and you find yourself between disgust and attraction. There is a fecal part for sure, but there is also a soft, musky, very white part that is addictive. In a nustshell, this ingredient can be found on sea shores, as it is the result of the sperm whale's vomit (looks like a black stone, with the weight of a sponge). The magic happens while the floating "stone" travels on the ocean, being washed by the water, baked by the sun, and eventually ends on the sand near the coast, adding the marine and musky smell to the repulsive original smell of the rejection. Knowing that this has been used for decades in fine perfumery and that it was one of its most precious elements was always fascinating to me as a young perfume student. Even though you did not hurt the animal to produce this, (you actually don't even see him or her), nowadays the natural ambergris as been replaced by a synthetic version for perfumery use and Eddie, my creative partner, and I are using a lot in almost each one of our creations. Dirty musky notes are part of the secret of every sensual dry-down at Le Labo. DB: What is Le Labo, and why is it different from other brands? FP: The dirty musky note! And many other things, too - but I guess the more important one is the intention behind everything we do: we want to make the life of our clients more beautiful through our craft, perfume creation (and do no harm while doing so). Of course, there is a cult around our creations for what they are and we are proud of it, but I think at one point, people don't only buy what you do, they buy why you do it, and that would explain to me why our clients are so hooked with our creations. DB: Tell me about your relationship with animals and how that plays into your business? FP: I don't know how to answer that. I guess my relationship with animals changed when I understood my belief in and hope for global peace between humans was kind of useless because there was something about this humanity that was rotten in the first place - that mankind was just a piece of the puzzle, and that of course, there will be no peace between humans as long as they will not respect any kind of life on this planet. I understood you couldn't believe in the power of non violence and close your eyes to the violence created by your own life style, eating habits, shopping habits or even creation habits on other living things. I think the quote from Tolstoi was kind of a "a-hah" moment for me at that point: "As long as there are slaughterhouses, there will be battlefields "... And since then, I never looked at an animal the same way. I understood simply that I do not want to hurt anyone. I need peace and harmony for the world and I am hoping to start here, from my home, my family, my creations, my office, my business. So I became vegan a few seconds after I realized that. My girlfriend and I decided to jump together and all became very natural. Our children have been raised vegan. My friend and business partner Eddie is now vegan and deeply committed with me to change the habits of the perfume industry with the few animal ingredients still used, So I feel like the happiness and the beauty in my life comes from the coherence of everything around. DB: Is there a code of ethics that is followed at Le Labo concerning people, animals, and the environment? What is it and how to you make sure it is followed? FP: Well, not everyone in the company is vegan but i can tell you everyone cares. Not only because the owners both are, but also because when they live in the environment we built, they can feel the logic behind it. Everyone has a high level of compassion in our team, and there is no need to recall an ethic code or anything... we are a small company and you can tell when everyone is working with the same quality of intention. The only thing we do is we challenge our suppliers (or even new partners) to commit to cruelty-free ingredients and try to inspire perfumers by using synthetics over naturals for civette and castoreum. DB: What is something people need to know about the modern fragrance industry? FP: The good news is the industry is being more and more concerned about environment and cruelty issues.Mainly because of the pressure of consumers and I am glad that works. I am sure some big beauty corporations continue to test their cosmetic products (not perfumes necessarily, but creams for example) on animals secretly, but they know they are taking big risks with the public if this becomes known. I think in a near future this will not exist anymore - one big scandal would be enough to scare them all. We need a Wikileak on this to solve it. Unfortunately, I have no access to these infos, but what I can tell you is that in the world of perfumery, there are very few animal products left to be used by the perfumers. To my knowledge there is only 2 left: castoreum (which is a by product of beaver) and civette (from a little wild cat that is trapped to extract that smell). There are synthetics available for these 2 products and we are an active force to raise awareness in perfume houses for the use of synthetics over naturals for these ingredients. DB: How do people respond to different smells, and how does that influence your recipes? FP: A perfume is very personal. The sense of smell is very linked to your memories. You can love a fig smell because it relates to a happy memory in your childhood and in the same time I can hate it because my first girlfriend dumped me under a fig tree...you can't create a perfume anticipating people's reaction to it, you just try to reach a certain kind of esthetic, beauty, surprise, elegance, soul with the shape of it. Then, if it is well done, it will connect with the person at a deep emotional level and be worth existing. Or not... DB: Talk about your favorite aspect of the science and the chemistry involved in our attraction to certain smells. FP: I am not so much on the science part i have to say. Eddie my partner is a scientist by training (and a poet by choice) so he is more the one who is the expert of that. I am more into the intuitive search of the creation of an emotion. There is actually no science behind that apart from quantum physics maybe, but it is a posteriori, not a priori, meaning after the experience. DB: You also are very good with presentation - from packaging to the store interior design. How did yo develop this? FP: It is just Eddie and I trying to marry our love for industrial design, perfumery and the Japanese philosophy of wabi sabi, the art of impermanence. DB: Which scents do you recommend for men? FP: All our creations are genderless...but men might connect more with Rose 31, Bergamote 22, Vetiver 46 and our new Santal 33. DB: What music are you listening to, and food are you obsessed with right now? FP: Music ( as we speak): my morning jacket, food: Dr Cow's cheese and your seitan bourguignon!! DB: Why are you vegan? FP: Because i think it is key for us to stop taking advantage of other living creatures in the world if we want to see humanity evolve in a more peaceful and sustainable way. I think it might be the most important choice I ever made in my life. Not that I made a lot of them, but still...

Shred the Streets Green

JohnHolden — Wed, 23 Mar 2011 15:41:37 +0000

by contributor John Holden Since 1986 Etnies has been manufacturing some of the most cutting edge skateboard shoes on the market. Now celebrating their 25th year anniversary they are continuing on that path with a new campaign BUY A SHOE PLANT A TREE. For every pair of Jamieson 2 Eco shoes sold Etnies will plant a tree in the rain forests of Costa Rica. The Jameson Eco 2 is not only a stylish pair of shoes but the out soles are made from recycled bike tires and plastic gloves while the laces are made from Pet recycled plastic bottles.

Striped Ties, Undercover Texans & No Snow Day for Horses

joshuakatcher — Fri, 28 Jan 2011 19:45:19 +0000

Daniel Hauff is a not a Texan, but he's sure got the mustache for it. In an article from the Dallas Voice (Read the full article HERE), Hauff recently describes his experience as a gay, vegan, undercover investigator in Texas - which is hostile territory for all three of those characteristics. Hoff is the national director of investigations for Mercy for Animals, and is up against some serious cultural differences when he goes undercover and releases investigations like the recent fish scandal in Texas, but he takes them in stride:

"The first undercover investigation for MFA that we did that was employment-based,” meaning operatives for MFA go undercover in slaughterhouses and other animal-based industries, applying for jobs and then cataloging abuses and law violations. On the last day of the investigation just concluded in Texas, Hauff himself was wired with a hidden camera, interacting with the people in the abattoir (though he admits his duties generally don’t put him undercover)."

. • I am loving the new, bold striped ties from Jaanj. With classic combos like blue and gold, red and white, and blue and white, you can't go wrong. Wear these with a solid shirt, and beneath a waistcoat for a more refined look. Also, the navy polka-dot bow tie is a fail-safe if you're considering trying something new. Learning how to tie a bow tie is a long-lost rite of passage, so get on it! These are all made from microfiber satin, so 3,000 silk worms were not boiled alive to make just one pound of silk. • Thanks to the efforts of Donny Moss, NYC's GOTHAMIST reported on a shameful and illegal display of cruelty over the last few days:

Carriage Horses Spotted Working Illegally During "Weather Emergency"

Director of Blinders, Donny Moss, wrote to us last night pointing out Mayor Bloomberg's declaration of a weather emergency yesterday, in which he stated: "Clearing the streets remains our number one job—and to do that, motorists should please, please refrain from driving." However, the carriage horses were still out there working hard, and Moss wonders "how the ASPCA could have possibly allowed them to leave their buildings this morning, given the Mayor's announcement, the dangerous conditions, and the law, which clearly states that horses should not be working under these conditions." Please leave a comment and let them know we appreciate their covering of this story.

Brown Bag It, Solidarity for Haiti, & Vegas Hates Dolphins

joshuakatcher — Fri, 14 Jan 2011 19:20:38 +0000

• These checkered handbags with recycled-soda-bottle-faux-suede interiors and tone-on-tone stitching are pretty manly. Matt & Nat is consistently releasing on-trend styles that combine with classic elements and colors for a worthy investment. Fairly-made, sustainably leather-free, and dashing! The previous season is on sale at an amazing discount right now as well, up to 70% off!

Our friends at the Sparrow Media Project have organized an initiative that is truly grassroots and in solidarity with the Haitian people. It has been one year since the earthquake shook Haiti to the core. Most people don't know that only 2% of the disaster has been cleaned up, and that a shameful $1.60 out of every $100 has actually made it to the Haitian people, as large organizations cycle funds back into their own organizations. 100 Shows for Haiti is calling on promoters to put on events for Haiti across the country and around the world. Events of all kinds are encouraged! Music, art, dance, puppet show, dinner, bake-sale, you name it! All money raised will be split between two organizations: One Hundred For Haiti, and Haitian Women for Haitian Refugees. The 100 Shows For Haiti concept was the brainchild of Maurice Mitchell of Long Beach, NY. Mitchell, is a lobbyist and community organizer who spends his days advocating for funding for public schools in lower income communities and who spends his weekends singing in the political punk band Cipher.

It's known as the "Dolphin Death Pool." The Mirage Hotel and Casino's “Secret Garden and Dolphin Habitat.” Imprisoned in pools that are too shallow and too small, they're forced to do mindless tricks for high-paying guests day after day – until they develop respiratory infections and diseases that claim their lives.The dolphins are trapped in a concrete pool next to a highway. They breathe in fumes and smog day after day. There's no protection from the desert heat or the winter snow. Seventy-five percent die prematurely. Please sign the petition to remove this mindless attraction.

Predicting The Future of Fashion

joshuakatcher — Mon, 03 Jan 2011 17:51:03 +0000

Ecouterre recently asked 28 Ethical Fashion experts to make predictions for what 2011 will bring - The Discerning Brute and our pal Leanne Mai-Ly from Vaute Couture, included!

Apolis, Join the Club & Gilt Sale

joshuakatcher — Tue, 28 Dec 2010 18:50:56 +0000

• Apolis: Global Citizen is the future of garment production - and it's a necessary future. From Bangledesh to Nepal and Uganda, "Apolis connects developing economies to the global marketplace through seasonal stories and tracks our tangible social results... Although Apolis is heavily inspired by philanthropy, we are a for-profit social enterprise wherein our customers act as benefactors, allowing Apolis to grow as a sustainable business instead of depending on fundraising for support. We have found this model of social business to be the most valuable and effective way to accomplish our ambitious long term goals of “advocacy through industry.” While I wish (and I find myself doing this too often) that more of the items were free of livestock products, considering the immense ecological toll and inherent cruelty of raising animals to use their skins and hairs (leather & wool), from a human-rights and labor standpoint, I still think this is a very important business model to point out. Here are some of the cruelty-free items from the website: • 90% off at GILT MAN's Holiday Sale! Here are some vegan jackets and blazers I've selected from the options. If you're not a GILT Member, get your invitation by clicking HERE. • Join the club. Point collars and spread collars are not the only options out there. Club collars are rounded, smaller, and offer a soft but sophisticated alternative. They were popular in the first few decades of the twentieth century - and likewise, offer the wearer a subtle antique-gentleman or dandy appeal. The shirt on the right, from Patrik Ervell, does not even require a tie. When wearing a shirt like this, it is best to button up all the way, and layer under a blazer, cardigan, or sweater-jacket. Getting sick of super-skinny ties? (me too!) The club collar is a great excuse to pull out a medium or wide, striped tie. •

Snack Attack, Nude Attitude, Man Tools & The Cost of Cheap Clothes

joshuakatcher — Sun, 26 Dec 2010 21:39:43 +0000

• The simplicity of a henley is a thing of beauty. Practical, utilitarian, and handsome whether you layer it with an organic plaid shirt, or wear it on it's own. When that henley is fairly-made in Italy or Portugal from organic cotton, it's also a thing of ethical handsomeness. While I wish on all my lucky-charms that Nudies would stop using cruel and ecologically devastating leather for their denim tags and jackets, I am happy when they have items like this that are leather-free. (Don't they know about all the cutting-edge, supple faux-leathers made from recycled soda bottles, TV's, or in closed-loop Japanese factories?). Nudie does, however, have an amazing human rights program set up with Amnesty International - that with the purchase of any one of their organic cotton "Human Rights Tees", 10 Euros gets donated to AI. They've got some pretty cool designs, as well. • Is cheap denim worth burning young women to death? Most people would say no - but our shopping habits speak otherwise. On December 15th, 2010, a multi-story sweatshop making clothes for notorious sweatshop slumlords, The Ha-meem Group (employed by GAP Inc., Wrangler jeans, JC Penney, Target, Abercrombie & Fitch, H&M, Walmart, Kohl's, Sears, Next and Osh Kosh B'Gosh, trapped and killed at least 29 workers in Bangladesh. The unsafe and unchecked conditions in the sweatshop prevented these mostly young girls from making a safe escape, as exists are commonly locked from the outside to prevent people from taking breaks. Many were burned alive, and many jumped to their death. To add insult to injury, "...the workers who were burned alive were likely being paid some $24 a month, less than $1 a day," according to Change.org. The disconnect we have concerning where our clothes come from is shameful, but understandable considering the epic propaganda and marketing machine that tells well-funded myths about cheap clothes. Between 2006 and 2009, 414 workers died in 213 factory fires. This latest fire at the Ha-Meem Group factory was not the first one to occur this year either - and famous factory fires that kill poor people or immigrants have a well-documented history. If you unwrapped a Christmas present from any one of these companies yesterday, or plan on going to the mall to spend gift-certificates, I would seriously consider using the opportunity to return items, speak to a managers, write letters, or otherwise voice your outrage. Lastly, please Sign The Petition to demand that these manufacturers at least compensate families of the victims. * If you are designer or work with any of these companies - check out the amazing work that Made-By is doing, and find out how to get the button sewn into your label! • Snack Attack! I am drooling like a rescued pitbull just thinking about these new snacks! The vegan mozzarella-style sticks from Chicago Soy Dairy's Teese line offers 15 sticks for 6 bucks - that ain't bad at all. Then, squeeze some of Tiger Tiger's flavored vegan mayo on your favorite sandwich or burger, and for dessert, how about some raw, Nutella-inspired Rawtella over ice cream or in a cookie sandwich? • Man Tools from Jack Black are a sure way to keep a well-groomed face and handsome conscious. A cruelty-free and Men's Health Magazine award-winning lather-brush designed to both meet and exceed the performance of Silver Tip Badger hair, and a razor-sharpener that extends the life of any razor are often hard to find, but here they are:

Running With Russell, Vegetable Frenzy & Rise of the Power Vegans

joshuakatcher — Wed, 10 Nov 2010 20:58:44 +0000

Ryan Olbrysh,  www.lasvegassun.com

• Power Vegan. What does this phase connote? According to the Business Week article from Nov. 4th, The Rise of the Power Vegan is an interesting turn of events for a culture of executives and power-players who want to take control of their own health, and thrive for as long as possible.

...a growing number of America's most powerful bosses have become vegan. Steve Wynn, Mort Zuckerman, Russell Simmons, and Bill Clinton are now using tempeh to assert their superiority. As are Ford Executive Chairman of the Board Bill Ford (F), Twitter co-founder Biz Stone, venture capitalist Joi Ito, Whole Foods Market (WFMI) Chief Executive Officer John Mackey, and Mike Tyson. Yes, Mike Tyson, a man who once chewed on human ear, is now vegan

• A new, slightly controversial article in New York Magazine explores why vegetables are the new meat, becoming the focus of entrees at unlikely restaurants throughout cities famous for fervent foodies. Vegetables Are the New Meat, they say - but they make sure to distinguish themselves from vegetarians, still calling on meat, butter, and cheese for flavor. What do you think about the "vegivore" trend? Leave a comment!

“Sales are up 15 to 20 percent,” says Mountain Sweet Berry Farm’s Rick Bishop, whose spigarello broccoli and spring-ushering ramps have cult followings at Union Square. “You see lines at the market now for vegetables. People used to only line up for eggs and fish.”

• If you like football, but hate the stereotype of the meat-maniacs that fill the parking lots, you'll love Peta's list of the Top 5 Vegetarian-Friendly NFL Stadiums:

1. Lincoln Financial Field (Philadelphia Eagles), where protein-packed mock-steak sandwiches, faux-chicken sandwiches, veggie dogs, and veggie burgers are coming off the grill faster than DeSean Jackson in the open field.
2. Oakland-Alameda County Coliseum (Oakland Raiders)
3. Lambeau Field (Green Bay Packers)
4. Georgia Dome (Atlanta Falcons)
5. (Tie) Arrowhead Stadium (Kansas City Chiefs) & Ford Field (Detroit Lions)

• I made my debut on Oxygen Network's Running Russell Simmons last night, where I was drenched in fake blood and wrapped up in a meat tray in times square! So may people have been Tweeting that they are considering going veg! Thanks to the amazing Simone for asking me to join her at this event! Watch the full episode (the PETA demo starts at about 36 min. in): • Win a Gardein Stuffed Turk'y Thanksgiving Meal from Mercy For Animals! Gardein has provided MFA with five coupons for free Savory Stuffed Turk'y products to give away to our supporters. All you have to do is enter MFA's Savory Stuffed Turk'y contest for your chance to win a free coupon. So, what are you waiting for? Enter to win today! Five lucky winners will be randomly selected on November 15.