Red Carpet Style, On The Cheap

Some of the most common emails I get ask where guys can get both affordable and ethical menswear. Truth-be-told, it’s a tricky combo to nail, but it’s out there! Often, ethical means expensive – where workers are paid a living wage, extra precautions are taken to minimize pollution and toxicity and quality alternatives to convenient animals skins or hairs are sourced. On the other hand, “affordable” often means that someone was screwed over in the production chain – whether it’s laborers, animals, or ecosystems.

Last night I attended the 25th Anniversary Gala for Farm Sanctuary, where a huge crowd celebrated a quarter-century of real progress for farm animals. The dress code was black tie-optional – and I leaned toward the “optional”. I wore a khaki blazer, cord waistcoat, blue and gray contrast-collar shirt, striped poly bow-tie, navy slacks, and gray boots.

Shoes aside, the entire look was from vintage and thrift stores, free of animal products, and cost me under $100. The majority of my wardrobe is thrift, second-hand, and vintage. Buying things that have been used gently is the most ethical way to shop – no new resources have to be extracted. Stores like Buffalo Exchange, Beacon’s Closet, and Doggy’s Clothing are some of my favorite fashion spots in New York and you can even shop online at Beacon’s.

Here are a four things to pay attention to when shopping second-hand:

  1. 1. The Fit. It may sound like common sense, but things should fit relatively well with few modifications. Sometimes rolling up the sleeves is good enough, but don’t buy anything that doesn’t fit your body mostly well. If you come across a garment that you love and it is slightly off, consider bringing it to a tailor (most laundromats have one on the premises) and have it adjusted precisely to your body. Tailors can be surprisingly affordable.
  2. 2. The Style. Giant 70s collars, humongous lapels, flared pants, and other distinct visuals are best left on the racks or saved for the costume party. Look for classic, utilitarian, and refined styles inspired by work-wear, military, and sport. Look for smaller collars, more narrow lapels, and minimal decoration like logos. The button-down collar is a sport-inspired element that gives a clean-cut appearance I really like. Narrow down your search with style standards and you’ll be a wise thrifter.
  3. 3. The Fabric/Print. Stick to basics: simple stripes, solids, plaids in  neutral colors. This really helps make going through the racks speedy. Once you know what you’re looking for, you can cut the time you spend in the store significantly. In addition, sticking with neutrals allows most of your clothes to provide multiple outfit combinations in the future. Gray, Tan, Navy, and Olive is a military palate that is quite versatile. Need a pop of color? Let the tie do the talking, or roll back you sleeved to reveal the lining if it’s colorful.
  4. 4. Practicality. Is it something you will wear again, or have you simply discovered the least terrible thing on the rack, mistaking it for a trophy?

Blazers and Suits for Gentle Men

Not all of us can afford to have a custom tuxedo made of hemp, like our vegan pal Woody Harrelson did back in March at the academy awards (although, I must admit that this custom Burberry creation is a really sharp tux!). One of the most common question’s I get is “where can I find cruelty-free suits and blazers that don’t look like crap?” It’s difficult to find decent looking formal-wear that isn’t wool, and I recommend linen and cotton suits if it’s not the middle of winter.  As for warm, ethical suits… you’ll just have to wait for my very own line of Discerning Brute sustainable, vegan suits and tuxedos. For the time being, here’s some suggestions for your next gala, red carpet event, or wedding. Be careful to check the details, like bull-horn buttons and leather trimming or detailing. Often this is left out of online clothing descriptions :

• Loden Dager’s Organic Cotton Twill two-button, notch lapel Blazer (not sure what the buttons are) $600 (or full suit $900) in Turquoise or Khaki

• BBlessing’s Linen Tuxedo Jacket (not sure what the buttons are) on sale at GILT MAN, (click here for our invite) $158, black or gray

BBLESSING BLACK CASUAL TUXEDO JACKET BLACK LINEN TUXEDO JACKETBBLESSING SS10C-JK1O5 GREY LINEN GREY TUXEDO JACKET

• Marc Jacobs double-breasted blazer in linen/viscose blend (not sure what the buttons are), $840

MARC JACOBS - GABARDINE BLAZERMARC JACOBS - GABARDINE BLAZER

Poly suits and poly-blends are not the most eco-friendly, although they certainly have a smaller carbon footprint than wool and other livestock-derived products (What’s wrong with wool, you ask?). Although the following do not meet 100% of Discerning Brute standards, I thought I’d list them anyway because there is just such a lack of good-looking vegan suits in general:

• Indochino, an online resource for custom-made suits, offers an alternative to the wool suit in a series of popular, metallic poly-blends, all around $300-400:

* UPDATE: If it’s not one thing, it’s another. I just realized that all Indochino suits come standard with real bull-horn buttons. If you do place an order with Indochino, make sure to ask for a cruelty-free, alternative button.

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• TOPMAN’s Black Slim Tux in a poly/viscose blend, $220 jacket, $80 pants

Some additional tips when looking for a vegan suit is to know what materials are used aside from wool and search for those at the store or on the web. A good suit should last you 15 years, and if you have the dough, consider working directly with a small designer or tailor and tell them what materials you’d like to use. Linen, for example is typically more sustainably produced than cotton (organic or not). It does not usually require chemicals and requires a lot less water. Hemp is the same.