Red Carpet Style, On The Cheap

Some of the most common emails I get ask where guys can get both affordable and ethical menswear. Truth-be-told, it’s a tricky combo to nail, but it’s out there! Often, ethical means expensive – where workers are paid a living wage, extra precautions are taken to minimize pollution and toxicity and quality alternatives to convenient animals skins or hairs are sourced. On the other hand, “affordable” often means that someone was screwed over in the production chain – whether it’s laborers, animals, or ecosystems.

Last night I attended the 25th Anniversary Gala for Farm Sanctuary, where a huge crowd celebrated a quarter-century of real progress for farm animals. The dress code was black tie-optional – and I leaned toward the “optional”. I wore a khaki blazer, cord waistcoat, blue and gray contrast-collar shirt, striped poly bow-tie, navy slacks, and gray boots.

Shoes aside, the entire look was from vintage and thrift stores, free of animal products, and cost me under $100. The majority of my wardrobe is thrift, second-hand, and vintage. Buying things that have been used gently is the most ethical way to shop – no new resources have to be extracted. Stores like Buffalo Exchange, Beacon’s Closet, and Doggy’s Clothing are some of my favorite fashion spots in New York and you can even shop online at Beacon’s.

Here are a four things to pay attention to when shopping second-hand:

  1. 1. The Fit. It may sound like common sense, but things should fit relatively well with few modifications. Sometimes rolling up the sleeves is good enough, but don’t buy anything that doesn’t fit your body mostly well. If you come across a garment that you love and it is slightly off, consider bringing it to a tailor (most laundromats have one on the premises) and have it adjusted precisely to your body. Tailors can be surprisingly affordable.
  2. 2. The Style. Giant 70s collars, humongous lapels, flared pants, and other distinct visuals are best left on the racks or saved for the costume party. Look for classic, utilitarian, and refined styles inspired by work-wear, military, and sport. Look for smaller collars, more narrow lapels, and minimal decoration like logos. The button-down collar is a sport-inspired element that gives a clean-cut appearance I really like. Narrow down your search with style standards and you’ll be a wise thrifter.
  3. 3. The Fabric/Print. Stick to basics: simple stripes, solids, plaids in  neutral colors. This really helps make going through the racks speedy. Once you know what you’re looking for, you can cut the time you spend in the store significantly. In addition, sticking with neutrals allows most of your clothes to provide multiple outfit combinations in the future. Gray, Tan, Navy, and Olive is a military palate that is quite versatile. Need a pop of color? Let the tie do the talking, or roll back you sleeved to reveal the lining if it’s colorful.
  4. 4. Practicality. Is it something you will wear again, or have you simply discovered the least terrible thing on the rack, mistaking it for a trophy?

New Order & Recycled Military

• Forecaster, stylist, illustrator and designer Jodi Taylor takes on the menswear trend of “New Order” in her “Arrow & Apple” fashion future analysis website.

The trend of New Order stems from our discontent with outdated social & political systems. There is growing outrage with the aristocratic hierarchy of our culture and being slaves to the system. Turmoil is growing on a global level demanding attention and change. Read the full article here:

• On the topic of this trend, check out Maharishi’s recut, recycled, repurposed military surplus. The hooded parkas are functional and pretty damn cool. In addition, the Spring 2011 collection of Maharishi is 100% organic cotton.

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Shred the Streets Green

by contributor John Holden

Since 1986 Etnies has been manufacturing some of the most cutting edge skateboard shoes on the market. Now celebrating their 25th year anniversary they are continuing on that path with a new campaign BUY A SHOE PLANT A TREE. For every pair of Jamieson 2 Eco shoes sold Etnies will plant a tree in the rain forests of Costa Rica. The Jameson Eco 2 is not only a stylish pair of shoes but the out soles are made from recycled bike tires and plastic gloves while the laces are made from Pet recycled plastic bottles.

 

Jameson 2 EcoJameson 2 Eco


Jameson 2 Eco

Bright Happy Spring

This spring is going to be a colorful one. One of the big trends is to use bold, bright colors with abandon. Turk + Taylor’s “Bioko” recycled hot-air-balloon windbreaker is now available online for $172. Made in San Francisco with nylon rip-stop (Each piece is unique and will vary drastically in color blocking.) Also don’t forget to check the organic cotton board shorts or the colorful western shirt in “65% organic cotton, 35% recycled polyester.
100% OMG“.

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CPAS Spring 2011 & China Bans Animal Circuses

• CPAS continues to impress with recycled parachute blazers, organic cotton pants and jackets, upcycled tee-shirt liners, cool cuts and innovative accessories. CPAS is fairly-made and never uses leather or fur. Here are some looks you’ll see on the racks for Spring 2011:

• China has banned animal circuses and warned its zoos that they must stop abusing animals or face closure.”Live animal shows and circuses are hugely popular in China, and draw around 150 million visitors a year at 700 zoos”, According to The Telegraph. This is one of the first animal welfare laws in China’s history. Some highlights of the new law:

  • • The ban will also force zoos to stop selling animal parts in their shops and zoo restaurants will have to stop serving dishes made out of rare animals, another widespread practice.
  • • Zoos will no longer be able to pull the teeth of baby tigers so that tourists can hold them
  • • Zoos will have to stop attractions where live chickens, goats, cows and even horses are sold to visitors who can then watch them be torn apart by big cats.
  • • Zoos with “entertainment” like live monkey-fighting, tigers jumping through hoops of fire, and bears walking on tight-ropes must immediately discontinue these practices.

The ban came into force on Tuesday January 18th, 2011 across the 300 state-owned zoos ,which are part of the China Zoo Association. This is a huge turning point for China, and hopefully the law will call public attention to the incredible plight that animals who are kept confined or caged, outside of their natural habitat, prevented from doing anything their bodies and minds evolved to do, and forced to perform cruel tricks and beg for food, experience.

If China, the country that has bear-bile farms, the largest fur exports in the world (including domesticated dog and cat) and a taste for endangered animal parts, can outlaw animal circuses and other cruel acts -certainly, the United States can too.

China Bears

Living Lean & Green in the New Year

If your New Year’s resolution is to be more conscious of your health, consider what you will wear when hitting the gym or yoga mat. “Satori” is a Japanese term for enlightenment. Make this the year of understanding and becoming aware of where and what your clothing is made from. The following eco-friendly designs are from the Satori Movement label.

Full Spectrum Shorts: Laid-back Twill Short w/ Asymmetrical Side Zip Pockets, Built in Belt, and Satori Woven Label: 55% Hemp/ 45% Recycled PET, Conscious Yoga Bag: Canvas-100% Hemp, Mecca Pants: Fleece-55% Hemp/ 45% Organic Cotton-Sage, Chocolate, Black



ETHICAL EXPLOITS: Holiday Therapy

by contributor, Matt Lara

Tips and ideas for a truly caring season.

Hark the herald angels shop…

I am packed in a department store dodging the usual giant shopping backs full to the brim, and eagerly browsing customers searching for the perfect deal. Normally I would panic seeing as I thoroughly loath any store during the holidays. This year is different, however, as I have risen and shipped out early on the final day of Divine Design—the annual charity shopping event created by Project Angel Food. The group truly is divine, as they provide food and care to those unable to provide for themselves due to HIV/AIDS, and other life-threatening diseases. So, today’s shopping spree is more of a joy. How nice to actually shop in Beverly Hills without having to incur serious debt. You see, the deals are fantastic with each item marked down 50% off on the first day, then down another 10% for each succeeding shopping day. And this isn’t discount crap either — the merchandise consists of brand new packaged goods donated by retailers and most are quite a steal. Today, I’m wandering through apparel, shoes, a large selection of Barbies (I don’t know), and spend most of my time plucking home goodies and gifts for my family. I walk away with happy to have supported such an amazing organization.

With every Christmas card I trash…

I must admit that I am in the spirit, although I’m just as likely to be a big Scrooge among the hassle, traffic, and cost of it all. I pull out my Christmas box full of old holiday cards wondering if I should keep them. I have card conflict—someone took a moment and spent a few dollars on that little piece of plastic-coated card stock. (Are these even recyclable?) I decide not to throw them away, but turn on yet another one of my very manly talents: crafting. You just watch out for my glue gun…

Every crafter knows where to look… let’s just call her Mother Martha. She’s one of the most successful, and more notorious, craft queens ever. And her website has the perfect craft for that stack of cards as thick as a two-by-four. My new family heirloom:

Handsome, right? Basically, you’re going to need to cut about 20 circles out of holiday cards, and be really savvy with the scissors and glue. It’seasier than it looks. By the way, I buckled and purchased a box of simple greetings from Quotable

Cards. Each one is made from recycled paper, soy-based ink, and manufactured using wind power. I think an elf must have guided me to these smart little cards. Another holiday tradition I have conflicts with: wrapping paper. It’s so sleek, and I love a well-wrapped gift, but I can only imagine a landfill piled high with that lawnbag-full of discarded paper city after city has thrown out (not to mention the mountains of cardboard and plastic packaging). This year, I’m turning to my late Grandfather—a cowboy, veteran, and rough-and-tumble S.O.B. when he needed to be—for inspiration. He was notorious for wrapping gifts in newspaper. Too tacky? Fine, pop a sticky-bow on there if you want. I’m not going to lie and say I haven’t. I got some good ideas here and here.

Magazine pages work well too. If you really, really want those snowmen and candy canes all over your gifts, use holiday catalogs. Remember how much our junk mail is wreaking havoc on the environment? Take it from a Brute who loves to wrap gifts—reuse!

Oh Christmas beans, oh Christmas beans…

I feel like I’m in holiday therapy, what with me spouting off my conflicts and solutions and so on. I have yet one more to chew over. Holiday meals conjure visions of some old school cooking—can green beans drowned in canned mushroom sauce and crispy onions. How in the world did we come up with this dish with it’s odd, crunchy, salty comfort? (this is how, according to Wikipedia) This year, my family and I are perfecting our attempt at deconstructing Green Bean Casserole as inspired by VeganYumYum (where are you Lolo? We want you to update the blog!). We’ve since abandoned the deconstructed part, but let’s just say we are never going back to the canned crap. I never say never but…never. Another conflict solved! Make a holiday classic from scratch, and see just how good it gets.

Silent night, scandalous light…

I’m signing off until next year, but not after I tell you about some last minute shopping. If you’re in Los Angeles and surrounding areas, you have to check out Spork Foods. I went up to their Holiday Bazaar this year and ran into good friends Ari and Mikko from A Scent of Scandal and browsed the array of naughty aromatic candles. I want to be a good boy for Santa therefore I cannot say the names of scents without having to wash my mouth out with soap. All I can say is, there’s Scandal wafting through my holiday…

Have a happy and conscious holiday. We face a new year of both challenges and triumphs. I believe if you’re here reading this, you’re making an effort to do good in the world, and that is the greatest gift one could hope for this holiday.

-Matt Lara

Ashton Michael Black Label

When was the last time that dressing like a rebel was actually rebellious? Ashton Hirota, founder of the Ashton Michael label, first made his debut at Los Angeles Fashion Week in 2002 and has since taken the fashion and entertainment industry by storm with a black-book of clients you wouldn’t believe. Hirota is pushing boundaries and always redefining counter-cultural aesthetics, remembering that being counter-cultural requires digging deeper than visuals alone. As a stylist and designer, Hirota’s most recent collection, Ashton Michael Black Label,  featured garments constructed entirely of fabric made from recycled water bottles (PET) provided by Reth¿nk Fabrics, tencel, bamboo, and coconut. The collection was inspired by post punk, androgyny, and military masculinity – an uncommon combination of the power and intimidation communicated in military and punk fashion with a truly urgent (and rebellious) need to shift how we acquire and produce raw materials. Click HERE for my video interview with Ashton!

Live in Tents: Tunji Dada SS/11 & Upcoming Events!

• Eco Hookups reports on Tunji Dada’s SS/11 collection, Furbished: Refurbished. The new line addresses the issues of waste management, sustenance awareness and the promotion of artisan methods. 70% of the products were made of Army Vintage Tents, and Recoup Cotton Shirts! I love the marbleized look of the re-purposed canvas shirt and slacks.

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• Halloween is around the corner. Speaking of costumes, if you want to start off your day with a deeper understanding of the symbology of what we wear and you are in the Boston area, I’ll be speaking at 11am, Oct 31st at the Boston Vegetarian Food Festival. I’ll be doing a 45 minutes presentation on “Fashion and Animals” and maybe even work-shopping how to properly throw a can of red paint on helpless old ladies in fur. Just kidding. Hope to see you there!

• I’ll also be speaking at the Oct 24th Walk for Farm Animals in Central Park. If you haven’t already signed up, what are you waiting for? It’s happening all across the country. Join NBA champion, wellness guru and proud Brooklyn native John Salley as he comes home to the Big Apple to lead hundreds of walkers in the do-good event of the year. NYC speakers include Farm Sanctuary President and Co-founder Gene Baur, our Walk marshal and NBA champ John Salley, Yours Truly: The Discerning Brute founder Joshua Katcher and vegan fashion force Leanne Hilgart of Vaute Couture. Plus, musician Jenn London will be performing live!

Turk + Taylor, SS11

What do you get when you combine a recycled hot air balloon, vintage linen, organic cotton, recycled poly, dead-stock fabric, hemp, and aesthetic genius? You get Turk + Taylor’s Spring/Summer 2011 collection! I love how the cold hasn’t even hit us yet and we’re already talking about next spring! It’s like the winter won’t even happen.

I chatted with Turk + Taylor at a trade show this week and got to see this collection up close and personal. The details are meticulous, the materials are sustainable, and the colors are bold and bright. The Bohol Jacket (made from the defunct 1980s hot air balloon) was my favorite, made from blue, orange and yellow silky-soft ripstop. Enjoy these gorgeous photos from their SS11 look-book: