The Discerning Brute: fashion, food & etiquette for the ethically handsome man » vegetarian

Paris Vegan Day II

joshuakatcher — Thu, 06 Oct 2011 18:17:49 +0000

Paris Vegan Day II, organized by the Gentle Gourmet, took place last weekend on both Saturday and Sunday. The event kicked off with a marathon of both sweet and savory crepe-making, and brought back the popular vegan shwarma from Wheaty. There were two full floors of tables and activities featuring savory food, sweets, clothes, accessories and household and beauty products. Food demos were given by the gifted Fran Costigan and Gentle Gourmet's Chef Deborah Brown Pivian. Doughnuts and cookie sandwiches from Health Angels Baking Club (get it?) rocked! Last year drew in almost 5,000 people and this year may have been more! I visited the Vegusto table for free samples a few too many times, and I was able to showcase my shoes and ties in a fashion showcase that I emceed. Finally, on Sunday morning there was a buffet-style brunch in a gorgeous outdoor patio.

John Bartlett on Cruelty-Free Eco Lux

joshuakatcher — Wed, 28 Sep 2011 13:22:37 +0000

Renowned designer John Bartlett is one of my favorite people on the fashion scene. We've been following him for a while here at The Discerning Brute. He's intelligent, fearless, savvy, and recently was chosen as one of three designers to win the prestigious Lexus Hybrid Eco Challenge, which will award him $25,ooo to launch his sustainable collection. The CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) and Lexus partnered for the second year on this competition. Marcia Patmos and Johnson Hartig were the other two winners. I am so excited to see what Bartlett comes up with.

Succulent Pulled-Eggplant Sandwich

joshuakatcher — Tue, 06 Sep 2011 21:20:15 +0000

Using a low-heat, long-cook method with eggplant is worth the wait. In this sandwich, the eggplant is so tender that it practically falls apart. Paired with some crisp tempeh-bacon, tapioca-cheese, veganaise, fresh basil leaves and tenderized kale, your lunch guests will be begging for seconds. WHAT YOU'LL NEED (serves 4): • 1 large eggplant, skinned and sliced 1/2 inch thick • 1 medium onion, chopped • 1/2 cup white wine • 1/2 cup water • 2 Tbs Apple Cidar Vinegar • 2 Tbs Tahini (or almond butter) • 1 vegan bullion cube • 1 tbs nutritional yeast • 1 package of tempeh bacon (I use "Fakin' Bacon") • Fresh Basil • 4 large Kale leaves • 4 sesame-seed buns (or 8 slices of your favorite bread) DIRECTIONS: 1. In a large covered pot, add the eggplant , onion, wine, water, tahini, vinegar, bullion and nutritional yeast and bring to a slow simmer on low heat. 2. Allow this mixture to cook (occasionally adding more wine/water at a 1-to-1 ratio if it completely dries out) for at least 35 minutes, until the eggplant does not resist any prodding and is tender and stringy. 3. Saute the tempeh bacon in a lightly oiled pan until crisp and golden. 3. Toast the bun with the equivalent of a slice of the cheese on one side. 4. Add veganiase to taste. 5. Lastly, tenderize the kale by crumpling it up into a ball in your fist, then stack the sandwich including the 'fakin, kale and basil leaves.

Germany’s Strongest Man Is A Vegetarian

joshuakatcher — Thu, 11 Aug 2011 05:14:49 +0000

Back in June, I wrote briefly about German strongman Patrik Baboumian, whose hulk-like strength was impressive enough to make a documentary about. Patrick has just won Germany's Strongest Man 2011 competition, and he currently holds the German crown in strength sports. From his own blog he says :

"After being LW champion in 2007 and 2009 and HW vice-champion in 2010, I finally hold the German crown in strength sports in my hands. It was a very hard battle in the rain and I had to fight against my injured calf as well but at the end I was victorious! Now I have proven finally, that being vegetarian makes you a better athlete!"

Weathered Belts, Broken Records & South Korea’s Dog Days

joshuakatcher — Wed, 03 Aug 2011 15:53:25 +0000

• If you like the look of an old, weathered and beat-up leather belt, you've probably been disappointed with the vegan selections thus far. In comes CLIFF belts to the rescue, made from cork. The cork is lightweight, strong, and the belts are reversable. So put a cork in it and go buy one. Eventually, you can even build your own. According to the CLIFF website:

Cork is environmentally preferable to leather as it comes from a lower carbon impact source (tree bark) and does not use animal products in its manufacture (a vegan product). The environmental concerns associated with leather include the energy and carbon intensity of generating animal products and the chemicals used in the leather tanning process that can be damaging to human health and the environment. Cork is a naturally beautiful and greener alternative to leather.

• I feel like a broken record. A new environmental study urges people to eat far less meat and cheese. This one is interesting, though. Unexpectedly, the biggest offender when it comes to GHG emissions is lamb! Lamb is a whopping 50% worse than beef. Damn! What sicko eats a defenseless, cuddly baby, anyway? Macho men, that's who - guys who are tough enough to stand up to a dangerous creature like a lamb! Take that you puffy, fluffy, gentle threat to my manhood.

The deadly creature in question

The Environmental Working Group (EWG) released the Meat Eater's Guide to Climate Change and Health, a comprehensive study warning Americans that the extreme amounts of meat and cheese we eat take a huge toll on the environment, animal welfare and human health. Meat and dairy products require more energy and resources to produce, and generate more toxic waste and pollution than equivalent amounts of potatoes, rice, beans and other plant-based foods. According to the EWG, if everyone in the U.S. chose vegetarian foods over meat or cheese for just one day a week, the reduction in greenhouse gas emissions would be the equivalent of taking 7.6 million cars off the road per year.

• Every year, two million homeless or captured South Korean dogs are butchered and eaten. They are often electrocuted, strangled, or bludgeoned to death and are then skinned, chopped up, and boiled. The cruelty and suffering endured by these dogs is unimaginable. Even though the country's Animal Protection Law, which was passed in 1991, considers dogs to be "domestic pets, officials often turn a blind eye and allow this to continue . Click here to find out more and help.

A dog rescued in 2010 from South Korea's meat trade - In Defense of Animals

Wildflower Pops-Up in New York

joshuakatcher — Fri, 03 Jun 2011 19:31:18 +0000

Wildflower, by Chef Ayinde Howell is a one-of-a-kind crowd-funded pop-up restaurant that will be bringing 28 courses of the finest plant-based cuisine all with a summer grilling motif to New Yorkers over June 10th-12th, 2011. Just like the short-lived beauty of blossoming annuals in the field, Wildflower is here today and gone tomorrow. Complementing the ever-growing trend of food trucks, pop-up restaurants are proving to be breakout venues for some of foods finest artisans and taste-makers. Wildflower will pop-up at New York's exclusive LTO (Limited Time Only) located at 171 East Broadway and for three days will take patrons on a 28 course journey that will traverse a landscape of diverse vegan cuisine ranging from soul food to raw fusion to a vegan street food tasting menu. Brunch will be served on Saturday and Sunday morning June 11th and 12th, drawing from the menu of Ayinde's popular monthly Brooklyn Petit Dejeuner, Waffle Brunch, which has already gathered a cult-like following by Williamsburg foodies. Crowd-funded through kickstarter.com, Wildflower is a direct response to the demand of New Yorkers who want to see gourmet vegan dining with an upscale atmosphere in lower Manhattan. An opening reception with celebrity guests, style icons, and giveaways will follow Friday night's dinner. Reservations can be arranged at http://wildflowerpopup.eventbrite.com. Seating is limited so reservations are encouraged, but walk-up customers will be seated as space permits. Menu can be found here.

Ayinde Howell is an entrepreneur, executive vegan chef and founder of http://ieatgrass.com

Red Carpet Style, On The Cheap

joshuakatcher — Mon, 16 May 2011 05:29:03 +0000

Some of the most common emails I get ask where guys can get both affordable and ethical menswear. Truth-be-told, it's a tricky combo to nail, but it's out there! Often, ethical means expensive - where workers are paid a living wage, extra precautions are taken to minimize pollution and toxicity and quality alternatives to convenient animals skins or hairs are sourced. On the other hand, "affordable" often means that someone was screwed over in the production chain - whether it's laborers, animals, or ecosystems. Last night I attended the 25th Anniversary Gala for Farm Sanctuary, where a huge crowd celebrated a quarter-century of real progress for farm animals. The dress code was black tie-optional - and I leaned toward the "optional". I wore a khaki blazer, cord waistcoat, blue and gray contrast-collar shirt, striped poly bow-tie, navy slacks, and gray boots. Shoes aside, the entire look was from vintage and thrift stores, free of animal products, and cost me under $100. The majority of my wardrobe is thrift, second-hand, and vintage. Buying things that have been used gently is the most ethical way to shop - no new resources have to be extracted. Stores like Buffalo Exchange, Beacon's Closet, and Doggy's Clothing are some of my favorite fashion spots in New York and you can even shop online at Beacon's.

Here are a four things to pay attention to when shopping second-hand:

1. The Fit. It may sound like common sense, but things should fit relatively well with few modifications. Sometimes rolling up the sleeves is good enough, but don't buy anything that doesn't fit your body mostly well. If you come across a garment that you love and it is slightly off, consider bringing it to a tailor (most laundromats have one on the premises) and have it adjusted precisely to your body. Tailors can be surprisingly affordable.
2. The Style. Giant 70s collars, humongous lapels, flared pants, and other distinct visuals are best left on the racks or saved for the costume party. Look for classic, utilitarian, and refined styles inspired by work-wear, military, and sport. Look for smaller collars, more narrow lapels, and minimal decoration like logos. The button-down collar is a sport-inspired element that gives a clean-cut appearance I really like. Narrow down your search with style standards and you'll be a wise thrifter.
3. The Fabric/Print. Stick to basics: simple stripes, solids, plaids in neutral colors. This really helps make going through the racks speedy. Once you know what you're looking for, you can cut the time you spend in the store significantly. In addition, sticking with neutrals allows most of your clothes to provide multiple outfit combinations in the future. Gray, Tan, Navy, and Olive is a military palate that is quite versatile. Need a pop of color? Let the tie do the talking, or roll back you sleeved to reveal the lining if it's colorful.
4. Practicality. Is it something you will wear again, or have you simply discovered the least terrible thing on the rack, mistaking it for a trophy?

INTERVIEW: Fabrice Penot of Le Labo

joshuakatcher — Sat, 07 May 2011 01:02:24 +0000

by Joshua Katcher The sophisticated olfactory genius of Le Labo continues to impress most nostrils that come across it. In addition to their most recent writeup in the May issue of W, Le Labo has received international acclaim and garnered a cult following of obsessed aesthetes. From their stores in Paris, New York, Tokyo, Berlin, London, Amsterdam and every other major city you can think of, to Barney's and Colette, to their exclusive line for Anthropologie - the world of Le Labo fragrances is full of intrigue and desire; it is an art, a science, an obsession. I am reminded of the plot from Tom Robbin's Jitterbug Perfume where two of the main characters are questing for the mysterious secret ingredient to a 300-year-old fragrance that is believed to posses magical properties. And there is something magical about this brand. People are mad about Le Labo - and they aren't ashamed to drench themselves in the stuff, and fill their home with their candles, myself included. All of their perfumes are unisex; Rose 31 and Santal 33 are rituals to my day - and forgetting to spray some on often feels like I've left something crucial about myself at home. All of Le Labo's perfumes are 100% vegan - as are the founders Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi (all "musk" and other ingredients are synthesized) - two men that are changing the fragrance industry through their commitment to esthetic olfactology, the environment, and animals. (On a side note - I will be carrying the entire line of Le Labo on BraveGentleMan.com, and rumor has it that an exclusive fragrance for Brave GentleMan is in development. Shh..) I had a chance to interview Fabrice recently, and this was our conversation: Discerning Brute: What is it about fragrances, perfumes, odors, and smell that you love so much? Fabrice Penot: I am not sure... I think I like to express myself through perfume creation because there is something pretty magical by creating an emotion in people through something unseen. DB: What is your favorite bit of history about perfume, and how does that influence your work? FP: There are so many, but the one that pops into my mind since I guess we'll talk about animal products is the story of maybe the most mythical ingredient in fine perfumery which is "ambergris". Ambergris comes from the sperm whale - it smells of a magical thing that you can't really define, and you find yourself between disgust and attraction. There is a fecal part for sure, but there is also a soft, musky, very white part that is addictive. In a nustshell, this ingredient can be found on sea shores, as it is the result of the sperm whale's vomit (looks like a black stone, with the weight of a sponge). The magic happens while the floating "stone" travels on the ocean, being washed by the water, baked by the sun, and eventually ends on the sand near the coast, adding the marine and musky smell to the repulsive original smell of the rejection. Knowing that this has been used for decades in fine perfumery and that it was one of its most precious elements was always fascinating to me as a young perfume student. Even though you did not hurt the animal to produce this, (you actually don't even see him or her), nowadays the natural ambergris as been replaced by a synthetic version for perfumery use and Eddie, my creative partner, and I are using a lot in almost each one of our creations. Dirty musky notes are part of the secret of every sensual dry-down at Le Labo. DB: What is Le Labo, and why is it different from other brands? FP: The dirty musky note! And many other things, too - but I guess the more important one is the intention behind everything we do: we want to make the life of our clients more beautiful through our craft, perfume creation (and do no harm while doing so). Of course, there is a cult around our creations for what they are and we are proud of it, but I think at one point, people don't only buy what you do, they buy why you do it, and that would explain to me why our clients are so hooked with our creations. DB: Tell me about your relationship with animals and how that plays into your business? FP: I don't know how to answer that. I guess my relationship with animals changed when I understood my belief in and hope for global peace between humans was kind of useless because there was something about this humanity that was rotten in the first place - that mankind was just a piece of the puzzle, and that of course, there will be no peace between humans as long as they will not respect any kind of life on this planet. I understood you couldn't believe in the power of non violence and close your eyes to the violence created by your own life style, eating habits, shopping habits or even creation habits on other living things. I think the quote from Tolstoi was kind of a "a-hah" moment for me at that point: "As long as there are slaughterhouses, there will be battlefields "... And since then, I never looked at an animal the same way. I understood simply that I do not want to hurt anyone. I need peace and harmony for the world and I am hoping to start here, from my home, my family, my creations, my office, my business. So I became vegan a few seconds after I realized that. My girlfriend and I decided to jump together and all became very natural. Our children have been raised vegan. My friend and business partner Eddie is now vegan and deeply committed with me to change the habits of the perfume industry with the few animal ingredients still used, So I feel like the happiness and the beauty in my life comes from the coherence of everything around. DB: Is there a code of ethics that is followed at Le Labo concerning people, animals, and the environment? What is it and how to you make sure it is followed? FP: Well, not everyone in the company is vegan but i can tell you everyone cares. Not only because the owners both are, but also because when they live in the environment we built, they can feel the logic behind it. Everyone has a high level of compassion in our team, and there is no need to recall an ethic code or anything... we are a small company and you can tell when everyone is working with the same quality of intention. The only thing we do is we challenge our suppliers (or even new partners) to commit to cruelty-free ingredients and try to inspire perfumers by using synthetics over naturals for civette and castoreum. DB: What is something people need to know about the modern fragrance industry? FP: The good news is the industry is being more and more concerned about environment and cruelty issues.Mainly because of the pressure of consumers and I am glad that works. I am sure some big beauty corporations continue to test their cosmetic products (not perfumes necessarily, but creams for example) on animals secretly, but they know they are taking big risks with the public if this becomes known. I think in a near future this will not exist anymore - one big scandal would be enough to scare them all. We need a Wikileak on this to solve it. Unfortunately, I have no access to these infos, but what I can tell you is that in the world of perfumery, there are very few animal products left to be used by the perfumers. To my knowledge there is only 2 left: castoreum (which is a by product of beaver) and civette (from a little wild cat that is trapped to extract that smell). There are synthetics available for these 2 products and we are an active force to raise awareness in perfume houses for the use of synthetics over naturals for these ingredients. DB: How do people respond to different smells, and how does that influence your recipes? FP: A perfume is very personal. The sense of smell is very linked to your memories. You can love a fig smell because it relates to a happy memory in your childhood and in the same time I can hate it because my first girlfriend dumped me under a fig tree...you can't create a perfume anticipating people's reaction to it, you just try to reach a certain kind of esthetic, beauty, surprise, elegance, soul with the shape of it. Then, if it is well done, it will connect with the person at a deep emotional level and be worth existing. Or not... DB: Talk about your favorite aspect of the science and the chemistry involved in our attraction to certain smells. FP: I am not so much on the science part i have to say. Eddie my partner is a scientist by training (and a poet by choice) so he is more the one who is the expert of that. I am more into the intuitive search of the creation of an emotion. There is actually no science behind that apart from quantum physics maybe, but it is a posteriori, not a priori, meaning after the experience. DB: You also are very good with presentation - from packaging to the store interior design. How did yo develop this? FP: It is just Eddie and I trying to marry our love for industrial design, perfumery and the Japanese philosophy of wabi sabi, the art of impermanence. DB: Which scents do you recommend for men? FP: All our creations are genderless...but men might connect more with Rose 31, Bergamote 22, Vetiver 46 and our new Santal 33. DB: What music are you listening to, and food are you obsessed with right now? FP: Music ( as we speak): my morning jacket, food: Dr Cow's cheese and your seitan bourguignon!! DB: Why are you vegan? FP: Because i think it is key for us to stop taking advantage of other living creatures in the world if we want to see humanity evolve in a more peaceful and sustainable way. I think it might be the most important choice I ever made in my life. Not that I made a lot of them, but still...