Pride and Luxury

Grasp your pearls, for the future of the luxury market is at risk! We saw this video over at EcoStiletto (a special that appeared on The Luxury Channel) and were both intrigued and sort of disgusted by these luxury brands who are finally realizing that their own futures are at risk if the resource-tap they call Earth dries up. With their own mortality in sight, the main question this video raises is, “Does looking and acting rich conflict with sustainability?” Hello? Does a bear shit in the woods?

Let’s get over the noble idea that these brands actually care about the Earth, right now. It’s like the classic case where a Hollywood mega-star get’s a disease and then suddenly they’re the biggest advocate for finding a cure. They are simply trying to save their own existence, which is not the worst thing. Often it can help, but in the case of an entire market, that means certain sacred cows can not be questioned. Like what? Poverty. Caste and class systems. Money. Materialism. Greed. Hierarchical power structures. Resource access. Viewing the planet as a stockpile of resources. Anthropocentrism. The list goes on.

Damn the Fashionistas!

One glaring issue is that companies like Gucci, Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Alexander MQueen, and others that rule the world of luxury, who perpetuate images of desirable and unattainable lifestyles, are all addicted to leather, fur, cashmere, wool, and other animal products. We also know that raising livestock is the single greatest ecological threat that exists. So, until these brands convert all their products to be vegan (which is possible), it’s all greenwashing and very difficult to take them seriously. Even Stella McCartney, who uses no fur or leather, still uses plenty of wool. Once again, when talking about environment and sustainability, the livestock industry was completely brushed over and left out, although it is the single greatest contributor to greenhouse gas emissions.

If we leave it up to luxury brands to define the mainstream understanding of environmentalism, of course extracting things from nature and turning them into expensive products (and the social and political atmosphere maintaining their position to do those things) will not be questioned in itself. If we let luxury brands use their powerful positions to create the mainstream discourse on sustainability, it’s like letting a drug addict head up the ATF.

I was astounded to hear the list of luxury brands who helped create the documentary Home” by Yann Arthus Bertrand. Do they not see how drastically they need to change everything about themselves? If the current definition of sustainability is “meeting the needs of the present without undermining the ability of future generations to meet their needs” then I wonder whether these brands could ever be capable of accommodating such an aspiration as that?

According to the video, the “I am not a plastic bag” phenomenon reduced plastic bag consumption in England, but is it Fur is Greedsimply an accessory of mass distraction as The Observer’s George Monibiot suggests? My fear is that greenwashing will prevail, not unlike the Canadian Fur Council’s  “Fur is Green” and Diesel’s “Global Warming Ready” campaigns, and they will attempt to capitalize on the market value of “green” as opposed to actually changing industry practices from labor and environmental impact to animal welfare.

Heritage is what is at risk for luxury brands. Changing the factories, formulas, and ingredients of their products changes who they are at the core, which is a huge and uncertain undertaking. But if done thoroughly, honestly, and openly, it’s more than an opportunity. It’s common sense. It’s not biting off the hand that feeds them. It’s realizing that there is only one Planet Earth, yet many of us live in a way that requires three Earths to sustain the status quo.

What do you think? Can luxury brands change their ways? Or is the very nature of luxury in conflict with sustainability?

Men’s Fashion Week AW2010: Paris & Milan

All Villains?

Men’s Fashion Week for Fall 2010 in Paris and Milan is well underway, and Designers seem obsessed with creating villains. Ann Demeulemees covered the runways in excessive furs, feathers and leather in attempt at at what Hint Mag referred to as a Rocked-Out-Count-Dracula. Well, maybe she got the blood-thirst right, but there’s nothing  attractive (or interesting) about a man covered in the forty bodies of anally and vaginally electrocuted mink.

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The Comme des Garçons collection by Rei Kawakubo also featured a bear coat. That’s right. A coat made from a bear that looked less “real” than a faux, and Hermés perpetuated the tired fur-trim collar. Los Angeles-based Rick Owens‘ disco-star-ship-Hellraiser was not only a hideously cruel collection of snake-boots and snake-n-fur gloves and coats, but it also looked like the stuff of costumey evil-queens. While his use of pattern and print is definitely exciting, Alexander McQueen needs to know that the skull and crossbones is over. It was over in 2004. He must have been playing Mortal Kombat, because his ninja-masked men in suits looked like bad-guy Scorpian and just could not be taken seriously – especially with silly fur-shoulders and fur-trim hoods.

http://hintmagazine.verbsite.com.lg1.simplecdn.net/__data/a4a76c9980c3ac60a17ee26f4fd5a5d2.jpgHermès Fall 2010Rick Owens Fall 2010Alexander McQueen Fall 2010

It was fitting that Dsquared payed tribute to horror flicks, considering the horror-films that have documented how fur, feathers, wool and leather are made into “fashion”. Moncler Gamme Bleu by Thom Browne had what looked like a gorilla suit – fur from head to toe.

Sometimes I really wonder what the hell is wrong with designers like D&G, Costume National, Gucci and Armani? Can you be in such a bubble that you convince yourself that aesthetics somehow justifies anything? Like cliché horror films in an age of awareness, these concepts are shocking at first, but rarely innovative. These designers act as though they are rebelling by designing against awareness but this is like cutting off the nose to spite the face, especially in a time when there are so many amazing alternatives, fauxs, and revolutionary sustainable and eco-fabrics. It’s not enough to simply hope designers will “get it” and make the common-sense connection between fabric and animals, exercise basic compassion or empathy, or realize that their talents would not be stunted by taking the time to find alternative and cutting-edge fabrics – we actually have to tell them to stop. All this means that designs are getting comfy using fur with no indication of concern or awareness. We need to step it up, because it’s only getting worse!

Dsquared² Fall 2010Gucci Fall 2010Moncler Gamme Bleu Fall 2010

Meanwhile, designers who managed to steer clear of fur like Adam Kimmel, went with insane casino villians in velvet suits. Dries Van Noten offered a polished but mischievous ivy-leaguer with mismatched sleeves and a rocker edge, Junya Watanabe captured the indy-rock dandy, and Viktor & Rolf gave us their love for the mid-century prep with modern details. Bottega Veneta was all about the rockabilly bad-boy, and Kris Van Assche‘s minimalist men stuck to black, white and gray urban basics. Mens’ Varsace and Prada (while drowning in leather) seemed to have passed on fur this fall season.

Adam Kimmel Fall 2010Dries Van Noten Fall 2010Junya Watanabe Fall 2010Viktor & Rolf Fall 2010Bottega Veneta Fall 2010Kris Van Assche Fall 2010

The mainstream press seemed to have steered clear of Geneva, Switzerland last week (January 20-21) where the Eco-Chic Fashion Show was held in partnership with the UN featuring 21 eco-couture designers and 23 ready-to-wear-designers.

EcoChic Geneva, Eco Chic Geneva, Green2Greener, Summer Rayne Oakes, Kate Dillon, Geneva fashion events, UN Geneva, eco fashion, sustainable fashion biodiversity, year of biodiversity, sustainable development, European eco fashion