The Discerning Brute: fashion, food & etiquette for the ethically handsome man » eco http://www.thediscerningbrute.com fashion, food & etiquette for the ethically handsome man Wed, 08 Feb 2012 00:10:48 +0000 en hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 Buy Shoes, Plant Trees http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2011/01/05/buy-shoes-plant-trees-2/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2011/01/05/buy-shoes-plant-trees-2/#comments Wed, 05 Jan 2011 07:00:05 +0000 JohnHolden http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=6121 Buy Shoes, Plant Trees
After a Blizzard took over NYC,  I'm already thinking about spring. Seeing some of the styles from myCATS, how could you not wait to slip in to some of these espadrilles. Along with all of the vibrant colors you can feel even better knowing that these eco-friendly kicks are handmade and they have partnered with [...]]]> Buy Shoes, Plant Trees
:myCATS Video:SlideShow JPG:Life in Technicolor:Shoe pics:Imagen 149.jpgAfter a Blizzard took over NYC,  I'm already thinking about spring. Seeing some of the styles from myCATS, how could you not wait to slip in to some of these espadrilles. Along with all of the vibrant colors you can feel even better knowing that these eco-friendly kicks are handmade and they have partnered with the organization Tress for the Future. " For every shoe sold,  myCATS will plant 2 trees in your name. These trees not only clean our air by reducing carbon emissions and fighting global warming, but also provide significant income and livelihood options for people.  Trees provide medicine, beverages, fruit, soil fertility, erosion control and even something as simple as shade can help improve the quality of life for these people." ]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2011/01/05/buy-shoes-plant-trees-2/feed/ 3 Kickin’ it in the Cold http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/17/kickin-it-in-the-cold/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/17/kickin-it-in-the-cold/#comments Fri, 17 Dec 2010 17:18:57 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=5959 Kickin’ it in the Cold
• Loomstate has partnered with Keds to make these cool, vegan, organic canvas boots with recycled tire soles and faux-shearling lining. These are great for cold weather and for looking snappy. Might I suggest waterproofing the canvas with a vegan waterproofer? Sustainably leather-free and $110.]]> Kickin’ it in the Cold
• Loomstate has partnered with Keds to make these cool, vegan, organic canvas boots with recycled tire soles and faux-shearling lining. These are great for cold weather and for looking snappy. Might I suggest waterproofing the canvas with a vegan waterproofer? Sustainably leather-free and $110. KhakiArmy Green ]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/17/kickin-it-in-the-cold/feed/ 0 ETHICAL EXPLOITS: Holiday Therapy http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/13/ethical-exploits-holiday-therapy/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/13/ethical-exploits-holiday-therapy/#comments Mon, 13 Dec 2010 15:22:33 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=5905 ETHICAL EXPLOITS: Holiday Therapy
by contributor, Matt Lara Tips and ideas for a truly caring season. Hark the herald angels shop… I am packed in a department store dodging the usual giant shopping backs full to the brim, and eagerly browsing customers searching for the perfect deal. Normally I would panic seeing as I thoroughly loath any store during [...]]]> ETHICAL EXPLOITS: Holiday Therapy
by contributor, Matt Lara

Tips and ideas for a truly caring season.

Hark the herald angels shop… I am packed in a department store dodging the usual giant shopping backs full to the brim, and eagerly browsing customers searching for the perfect deal. Normally I would panic seeing as I thoroughly loath any store during the holidays. This year is different, however, as I have risen and shipped out early on the final day of Divine Design—the annual charity shopping event created by Project Angel Food. The group truly is divine, as they provide food and care to those unable to provide for themselves due to HIV/AIDS, and other life-threatening diseases. So, today’s shopping spree is more of a joy. How nice to actually shop in Beverly Hills without having to incur serious debt. You see, the deals are fantastic with each item marked down 50% off on the first day, then down another 10% for each succeeding shopping day. And this isn’t discount crap either — the merchandise consists of brand new packaged goods donated by retailers and most are quite a steal. Today, I’m wandering through apparel, shoes, a large selection of Barbies (I don't know), and spend most of my time plucking home goodies and gifts for my family. I walk away with happy to have supported such an amazing organization. With every Christmas card I trash… I must admit that I am in the spirit, although I’m just as likely to be a big Scrooge among the hassle, traffic, and cost of it all. I pull out my Christmas box full of old holiday cards wondering if I should keep them. I have card conflict—someone took a moment and spent a few dollars on that little piece of plastic-coated card stock. (Are these even recyclable?) I decide not to throw them away, but turn on yet another one of my very manly talents: crafting. You just watch out for my glue gun… Every crafter knows where to look… let’s just call her Mother Martha. She’s one of the most successful, and more notorious, craft queens ever. And her website has the perfect craft for that stack of cards as thick as a two-by-four. My new family heirloom: Handsome, right? Basically, you’re going to need to cut about 20 circles out of holiday cards, and be really savvy with the scissors and glue. It’seasier than it looks. By the way, I buckled and purchased a box of simple greetings from Quotable Cards. Each one is made from recycled paper, soy-based ink, and manufactured using wind power. I think an elf must have guided me to these smart little cards. Another holiday tradition I have conflicts with: wrapping paper. It’s so sleek, and I love a well-wrapped gift, but I can only imagine a landfill piled high with that lawnbag-full of discarded paper city after city has thrown out (not to mention the mountains of cardboard and plastic packaging). This year, I’m turning to my late Grandfather—a cowboy, veteran, and rough-and-tumble S.O.B. when he needed to be—for inspiration. He was notorious for wrapping gifts in newspaper. Too tacky? Fine, pop a sticky-bow on there if you want. I’m not going to lie and say I haven’t. I got some good ideas here and here. Magazine pages work well too. If you really, really want those snowmen and candy canes all over your gifts, use holiday catalogs. Remember how much our junk mail is wreaking havoc on the environment? Take it from a Brute who loves to wrap gifts—reuse! Oh Christmas beans, oh Christmas beans… I feel like I’m in holiday therapy, what with me spouting off my conflicts and solutions and so on. I have yet one more to chew over. Holiday meals conjure visions of some old school cooking—can green beans drowned in canned mushroom sauce and crispy onions. How in the world did we come up with this dish with it’s odd, crunchy, salty comfort? (this is how, according to Wikipedia) This year, my family and I are perfecting our attempt at deconstructing Green Bean Casserole as inspired by VeganYumYum (where are you Lolo? We want you to update the blog!). We’ve since abandoned the deconstructed part, but let’s just say we are never going back to the canned crap. I never say never but…never. Another conflict solved! Make a holiday classic from scratch, and see just how good it gets. Silent night, scandalous light… I’m signing off until next year, but not after I tell you about some last minute shopping. If you’re in Los Angeles and surrounding areas, you have to check out Spork Foods. I went up to their Holiday Bazaar this year and ran into good friends Ari and Mikko from A Scent of Scandal and browsed the array of naughty aromatic candles. I want to be a good boy for Santa therefore I cannot say the names of scents without having to wash my mouth out with soap. All I can say is, there’s Scandal wafting through my holiday… Have a happy and conscious holiday. We face a new year of both challenges and triumphs. I believe if you’re here reading this, you’re making an effort to do good in the world, and that is the greatest gift one could hope for this holiday. -Matt Lara]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/13/ethical-exploits-holiday-therapy/feed/ 2 Constructing the Suit: No-Bull Buttons http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/06/constructing-the-suit-no-bull-buttons/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/06/constructing-the-suit-no-bull-buttons/#comments Mon, 06 Dec 2010 18:27:30 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=5877 Constructing the Suit: No-Bull Buttons
I've been in the development process for the exclusive Discerning Brute Suit Line (which will be available on BraveGentleMan.com soon!) and there are so many elements to making a good suit, and may of them are not at all animal-friendly. From bull-horn and buffalo buttons to wool fabric, from horse or goat or camel-hair interfacing [...]]]> Constructing the Suit: No-Bull Buttons
I've been in the development process for the exclusive Discerning Brute Suit Line (which will be available on BraveGentleMan.com soon!) and there are so many elements to making a good suit, and may of them are not at all animal-friendly. From bull-horn and buffalo buttons to wool fabric, from horse or goat or camel-hair interfacing and wool felt under-collar fabric, to silk thread, making a cruelty-free suit is no easy task. Many menswear factories are set up to provide stock-interfacing and thread  - and bringing in your own alternatives sometimes poses problems. Things like buttons and interfacing are definitely more subtle elements of ethical fashion, but they are valid nonetheless. What visually and texturally distinguishes horn buttons from alternatives like tagua nut, wood, plastic, or coconut? The buttons in the image below are typical horn buttons, carved from the horns of animals like buffalo or bull. Definitely not cruelty-free, and definitely not sustainable considering the ecological impact of livestock production. Horn buttons come in light brown, dark brown, black, amber, and ivory. They usually have an organic texture (run your fingernail along the rim and it should have a tiny ridges, like a worn-down quarter, and often they appear to be marbleized. Upon close inspection, they have depth in the lighter areas, which are slightly translucent. Horn buttons are also typically semi-matte - unlike plastic buttons which are smooth and uniformly shiny, though many mimic the marble patter and colors. Tagua Nut Buttons are a gorgeous, organic alternative to animal horn and plastic. They are also called Corozo, mococha and vegetable ivory. Tagua has been used in since 1750 for toys, beads, and buttons. The Tagua nut comes in various colors, shades, and patterns, and are considered the "ivory of wood". Companies like Howies and Vaute Couture, who I've talked about on The Discerning Brute before, are now using Tagua Nut. The Tagua nut, it comes from a palm tree called Phytelephas Macrocarpa (a palm from South America). The nuts are gathered and dried out for 4-8 weeks, sorted and sliced. Their scientific name means "plant elephant" and the very hard white endosperm of their seeds (tagua nuts) resembles elephant ivory, does not break, and maintains the same properties as man-made buttons along with the texture and color patterning similar to horn. SALE --Storewide Big Button Clearance--10 Nut Ivory/Tagua Nut Carved Buttons--13/16 of an inch or 2 cm--5 chocolate brown, 5 camelhowie_nut_buttons.jpg The Tagua Nut is sustainably harvested, often fairly traded, and does not require the cutting-down of trees (since it comes from the tree's nut). It also has such similar properties to Ivory that it has helped curb the poaching of elephants. What's not to like? Definitely look for Tagua Nut Buttons on my upcoming suit line!]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/06/constructing-the-suit-no-bull-buttons/feed/ 3 Suit Yourself & Pick your Poison http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/09/05/suit-yourself-pick-your-poison/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/09/05/suit-yourself-pick-your-poison/#comments Sun, 05 Sep 2010 06:00:40 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=5127 Suit Yourself & Pick your Poison
In the perpetual search for cruelty-free, cold-weather suits with a small carbon footprint (livestock-free), it's rare to find really stylish options. Alter's Men Shop has just received these Shades of Grey Suiting suits for $310- tailored, classic and modern in a poly-rayon blend. ....... ............. The perfect suit? Pick Your Poison: ♣ It's no secret [...]]]> Suit Yourself & Pick your Poison
In the perpetual search for cruelty-free, cold-weather suits with a small carbon footprint (livestock-free), it's rare to find really stylish options. Alter's Men Shop has just received these Shades of Grey Suiting suits for $310- tailored, classic and modern in a poly-rayon blend. ....... ............. The perfect suit? Pick Your Poison: http://www.lostbattalions.com/pix/RayonDiagram.jpg♣ It's no secret that making Rayon is a polluting process involving lye (NaOH) and and carbon disulfide, unless contained in a closed-loop system like TENCEL ® Lyocell, where 99.5% of the chemicals are contained and recycled again and again in the factory. It's also no secret that Polyester is a petroleum product (PET) - the smae material used to make plastic water bottles. The process itself, in which polymers are synthesized at 270º Fahrenheit, a lot of polluting off-gassing occurs (even when using recycled polyesters). There are less damaging polys like Eco-Intelligent® Polyester, a registered trademark of Victor Innovatex, is a polyester that’s made using a more eco-friendly process, and using more eco-friendly ingredients. This has resulted in a polyester that can be recycled indefinitely, without losing it’s original quality. . . ♣ A common assumption is that wool, because it's "natural" is a more eco-friendly option for something like suiting. But when we look at the staggering impact that livestock like sheep have on ecosystems and climate change, the fabric itself canhttp://blurringborders.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/herd-of-sheep.gif not be isolated as a benign product. Until we figure out a way to grow hair without a living, feeling, grazing land-mammal attached to it, the wool comes with the sheep. According to the United Nations: "The world’s sheep population is just over one billion – one for roughly every six people. Nearly half are in Asia and the Near and Middle East. Sheep are the species with the highest number of recorded breeds – contributing 25 percent to the global total for mammals." (source). The impact that livestock (including sheep) has on the environment, from the United Nations Food & Agricultural Organization is enormous: http://www.fao.org/newsroom/en/news/2006/1000448/index.html. In New Zealand, which has approx. 48 million sheep, methane emissions from enteric fermentation, coming mostly from sheep, constitute almost 50% of the nation's total greenhouse gas emissions. (source). Then there is the ethical implications of raising sheep for wool: Live Export & Ultra-Fine Wool production. Thankfully, mulesing - a barbaric practice is being phased out. I hope this provides some clarity in the desire to avoid using any wool for any reason. ♣ The most sustainable option is to purchase a vintage/thrift suit and bring it to a tailor to have it adjusted and modernized to fit you and your style. This may also be the most affordable option. ♣ All things considered, if buying a new suit, I'd still opt for a poly-rayon suit for cold weather (organic cotton just won't cut it for cold climates). But fear not -The Discerning Brute and Brave GentleMan will soon be making our own line of sustainable, warm, and modern tailored suits that are fairly-made, sustainable, and cruelty-free! Stay tuned...]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/09/05/suit-yourself-pick-your-poison/feed/ 0 SHABD: Galactic Tie-Dye is Big. Bang. http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/07/21/shabd-galactic-tie-dye-is-big-bang/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/07/21/shabd-galactic-tie-dye-is-big-bang/#comments Wed, 21 Jul 2010 16:21:49 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=4637 SHABD: Galactic Tie-Dye is Big. Bang.
Shabd, a Brooklyn based label, features 100% organic cotton, hand dyed tees inspired by celestial and galactic imagery. Tie Dye never looked so good, and it's definitely back in a big-bang way!]]> SHABD: Galactic Tie-Dye is Big. Bang.
Shabd, a Brooklyn based label, features 100% organic cotton, hand dyed tees inspired by celestial and galactic imagery. Tie Dye never looked so good, and it's definitely back in a big-bang way!]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/07/21/shabd-galactic-tie-dye-is-big-bang/feed/ 0 LU FLUX: endless youth http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/07/18/lu-flux-endless-youth/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/07/18/lu-flux-endless-youth/#comments Sun, 18 Jul 2010 22:00:30 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=4641 LU FLUX: endless youth
Lu Flux is a London designer who specializes in creating unique pieces of ethical clothing that seem to emerge from fairy tales. By working with salvaged, vintage and organic fabrics, combined with traditional techniques of knitting, pleating and patchwork, the contemporary menswear and womenswear collections represent an antithesis to the modern trend of expendable fashion. [...]]]> LU FLUX: endless youth
Lu Flux is a London designer who specializes in creating unique pieces of ethical clothing that seem to emerge from fairy tales. By working with salvaged, vintage and organic fabrics, combined with traditional techniques of knitting, pleating and patchwork, the contemporary menswear and womenswear collections represent an antithesis to the modern trend of expendable fashion. The aim is to make something new out of something old, so as to consume less and reduce waste. I spoke with Lu recently, and explained the environmental toll that livestock like sheep (wool), and cows (leather) take - even if it's "organic", as well as the ethical implications in general of wool and leather. I was told that there is never fur, and that Lorica (a vegan "leather") is sometimes used. There are a few pieces in wool or leather, but Lu said, "I am thinking about using vegan Lorica for the shoes in my new collection - you have put my mind in overtime with your sheep thoughts too." I'm excited to see what sustainable, vegan creations Lu Flux will pull out of the magic hat next!]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/07/18/lu-flux-endless-youth/feed/ 0 Germany’s VILDE SVANER http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/07/13/germanys-vilde-svaner/ http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/07/13/germanys-vilde-svaner/#comments Tue, 13 Jul 2010 07:09:55 +0000 joshuakatcher http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=4633 Germany’s VILDE SVANER
VILDE SVANER is a sustainably produced European line with a very wearable men's collection. The aim of VILDE SVANER is to conciliate ecological and economical sustainability with a way of aesthetically challenging fashion. That is why VILDE SVANER uses only organic and sustainable fabrics and establishes a transparent production process for the customer. Their garments [...]]]> Germany’s VILDE SVANER
VILDE SVANER is a sustainably produced European line with a very wearable men's collection. The aim of VILDE SVANER is to conciliate ecological and economical sustainability with a way of aesthetically challenging fashion. That is why VILDE SVANER uses only organic and sustainable fabrics and establishes a transparent production process for the customer. Their garments are made from recycled mens shirts or organic cotton, and everything is dyed and manufactured locally in Germany. They do use some leather in accessories, but I've spoken to designer Anne Gorke, and they are seriously considering switching over to an eco-friendly faux, which I think is a brilliant idea! ]]> http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/07/13/germanys-vilde-svaner/feed/ 0