Constructing the Suit: No-Bull Buttons

I’ve been in the development process for the exclusive Discerning Brute Suit Line (which will be available on BraveGentleMan.com soon!) and there are so many elements to making a good suit, and may of them are not at all animal-friendly. From bull-horn and buffalo buttons to wool fabric, from horse or goat or camel-hair interfacing and wool felt under-collar fabric, to silk thread, making a cruelty-free suit is no easy task. Many menswear factories are set up to provide stock-interfacing and thread  – and bringing in your own alternatives sometimes poses problems.

Things like buttons and interfacing are definitely more subtle elements of ethical fashion, but they are valid nonetheless.

What visually and texturally distinguishes horn buttons from alternatives like tagua nut, wood, plastic, or coconut? The buttons in the image below are typical horn buttons, carved from the horns of animals like buffalo or bull. Definitely not cruelty-free, and definitely not sustainable considering the ecological impact of livestock production.

Horn buttons come in light brown, dark brown, black, amber, and ivory. They usually have an organic texture (run your fingernail along the rim and it should have a tiny ridges, like a worn-down quarter, and often they appear to be marbleized. Upon close inspection, they have depth in the lighter areas, which are slightly translucent. Horn buttons are also typically semi-matte – unlike plastic buttons which are smooth and uniformly shiny, though many mimic the marble patter and colors.

Tagua Nut Buttons are a gorgeous, organic alternative to animal horn and plastic. They are also called Corozo, mococha and vegetable ivory. Tagua has been used in since 1750 for toys, beads, and buttons. The Tagua nut comes in various colors, shades, and patterns, and are considered the “ivory of wood”. Companies like Howies and Vaute Couture, who I’ve talked about on The Discerning Brute before, are now using Tagua Nut. The Tagua nut, it comes from a palm tree called Phytelephas Macrocarpa (a palm from South America). The nuts are gathered and dried out for 4-8 weeks, sorted and sliced. Their scientific name means “plant elephant” and the very hard white endosperm of their seeds (tagua nuts) resembles elephant ivory, does not break, and maintains the same properties as man-made buttons along with the texture and color patterning similar to horn.

SALE --Storewide Big Button Clearance--10 Nut Ivory/Tagua Nut Carved Buttons--13/16 of an inch or 2 cm--5 chocolate brown, 5 camelhowie_nut_buttons.jpg

The Tagua Nut is sustainably harvested, often fairly traded, and does not require the cutting-down of trees (since it comes from the tree’s nut). It also has such similar properties to Ivory that it has helped curb the poaching of elephants. What’s not to like? Definitely look for Tagua Nut Buttons on my upcoming suit line!

Blazers and Suits for Gentle Men

Not all of us can afford to have a custom tuxedo made of hemp, like our vegan pal Woody Harrelson did back in March at the academy awards (although, I must admit that this custom Burberry creation is a really sharp tux!). One of the most common question’s I get is “where can I find cruelty-free suits and blazers that don’t look like crap?” It’s difficult to find decent looking formal-wear that isn’t wool, and I recommend linen and cotton suits if it’s not the middle of winter.  As for warm, ethical suits… you’ll just have to wait for my very own line of Discerning Brute sustainable, vegan suits and tuxedos. For the time being, here’s some suggestions for your next gala, red carpet event, or wedding. Be careful to check the details, like bull-horn buttons and leather trimming or detailing. Often this is left out of online clothing descriptions :

• Loden Dager’s Organic Cotton Twill two-button, notch lapel Blazer (not sure what the buttons are) $600 (or full suit $900) in Turquoise or Khaki

• BBlessing’s Linen Tuxedo Jacket (not sure what the buttons are) on sale at GILT MAN, (click here for our invite) $158, black or gray

BBLESSING BLACK CASUAL TUXEDO JACKET BLACK LINEN TUXEDO JACKETBBLESSING SS10C-JK1O5 GREY LINEN GREY TUXEDO JACKET

• Marc Jacobs double-breasted blazer in linen/viscose blend (not sure what the buttons are), $840

MARC JACOBS - GABARDINE BLAZERMARC JACOBS - GABARDINE BLAZER

Poly suits and poly-blends are not the most eco-friendly, although they certainly have a smaller carbon footprint than wool and other livestock-derived products (What’s wrong with wool, you ask?). Although the following do not meet 100% of Discerning Brute standards, I thought I’d list them anyway because there is just such a lack of good-looking vegan suits in general:

• Indochino, an online resource for custom-made suits, offers an alternative to the wool suit in a series of popular, metallic poly-blends, all around $300-400:

* UPDATE: If it’s not one thing, it’s another. I just realized that all Indochino suits come standard with real bull-horn buttons. If you do place an order with Indochino, make sure to ask for a cruelty-free, alternative button.

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• TOPMAN’s Black Slim Tux in a poly/viscose blend, $220 jacket, $80 pants

Some additional tips when looking for a vegan suit is to know what materials are used aside from wool and search for those at the store or on the web. A good suit should last you 15 years, and if you have the dough, consider working directly with a small designer or tailor and tell them what materials you’d like to use. Linen, for example is typically more sustainably produced than cotton (organic or not). It does not usually require chemicals and requires a lot less water. Hemp is the same.