Buy Shoes, Plant Trees

:myCATS Video:SlideShow JPG:Life in Technicolor:Shoe pics:Imagen 149.jpgAfter a Blizzard took over NYC,  I’m already thinking about spring. Seeing some of the styles from myCATS, how could you not wait to slip in to some of these espadrilles. Along with all of the vibrant colors you can feel even better knowing that these eco-friendly kicks are handmade and they have partnered with the organization Tress for the Future.

For every shoe sold,  myCATS will plant 2 trees in your name. These trees not only clean our air by reducing carbon emissions and fighting global warming, but also provide significant income and livelihood options for people.  Trees provide medicine, beverages, fruit, soil fertility, erosion control and even something as simple as shade can help improve the quality of life for these people.”

ETHICAL EXPLOITS: Holiday Therapy

by contributor, Matt Lara

Tips and ideas for a truly caring season.

Hark the herald angels shop…

I am packed in a department store dodging the usual giant shopping backs full to the brim, and eagerly browsing customers searching for the perfect deal. Normally I would panic seeing as I thoroughly loath any store during the holidays. This year is different, however, as I have risen and shipped out early on the final day of Divine Design—the annual charity shopping event created by Project Angel Food. The group truly is divine, as they provide food and care to those unable to provide for themselves due to HIV/AIDS, and other life-threatening diseases. So, today’s shopping spree is more of a joy. How nice to actually shop in Beverly Hills without having to incur serious debt. You see, the deals are fantastic with each item marked down 50% off on the first day, then down another 10% for each succeeding shopping day. And this isn’t discount crap either — the merchandise consists of brand new packaged goods donated by retailers and most are quite a steal. Today, I’m wandering through apparel, shoes, a large selection of Barbies (I don’t know), and spend most of my time plucking home goodies and gifts for my family. I walk away with happy to have supported such an amazing organization.

With every Christmas card I trash…

I must admit that I am in the spirit, although I’m just as likely to be a big Scrooge among the hassle, traffic, and cost of it all. I pull out my Christmas box full of old holiday cards wondering if I should keep them. I have card conflict—someone took a moment and spent a few dollars on that little piece of plastic-coated card stock. (Are these even recyclable?) I decide not to throw them away, but turn on yet another one of my very manly talents: crafting. You just watch out for my glue gun…

Every crafter knows where to look… let’s just call her Mother Martha. She’s one of the most successful, and more notorious, craft queens ever. And her website has the perfect craft for that stack of cards as thick as a two-by-four. My new family heirloom:

Handsome, right? Basically, you’re going to need to cut about 20 circles out of holiday cards, and be really savvy with the scissors and glue. It’seasier than it looks. By the way, I buckled and purchased a box of simple greetings from Quotable

Cards. Each one is made from recycled paper, soy-based ink, and manufactured using wind power. I think an elf must have guided me to these smart little cards. Another holiday tradition I have conflicts with: wrapping paper. It’s so sleek, and I love a well-wrapped gift, but I can only imagine a landfill piled high with that lawnbag-full of discarded paper city after city has thrown out (not to mention the mountains of cardboard and plastic packaging). This year, I’m turning to my late Grandfather—a cowboy, veteran, and rough-and-tumble S.O.B. when he needed to be—for inspiration. He was notorious for wrapping gifts in newspaper. Too tacky? Fine, pop a sticky-bow on there if you want. I’m not going to lie and say I haven’t. I got some good ideas here and here.

Magazine pages work well too. If you really, really want those snowmen and candy canes all over your gifts, use holiday catalogs. Remember how much our junk mail is wreaking havoc on the environment? Take it from a Brute who loves to wrap gifts—reuse!

Oh Christmas beans, oh Christmas beans…

I feel like I’m in holiday therapy, what with me spouting off my conflicts and solutions and so on. I have yet one more to chew over. Holiday meals conjure visions of some old school cooking—can green beans drowned in canned mushroom sauce and crispy onions. How in the world did we come up with this dish with it’s odd, crunchy, salty comfort? (this is how, according to Wikipedia) This year, my family and I are perfecting our attempt at deconstructing Green Bean Casserole as inspired by VeganYumYum (where are you Lolo? We want you to update the blog!). We’ve since abandoned the deconstructed part, but let’s just say we are never going back to the canned crap. I never say never but…never. Another conflict solved! Make a holiday classic from scratch, and see just how good it gets.

Silent night, scandalous light…

I’m signing off until next year, but not after I tell you about some last minute shopping. If you’re in Los Angeles and surrounding areas, you have to check out Spork Foods. I went up to their Holiday Bazaar this year and ran into good friends Ari and Mikko from A Scent of Scandal and browsed the array of naughty aromatic candles. I want to be a good boy for Santa therefore I cannot say the names of scents without having to wash my mouth out with soap. All I can say is, there’s Scandal wafting through my holiday…

Have a happy and conscious holiday. We face a new year of both challenges and triumphs. I believe if you’re here reading this, you’re making an effort to do good in the world, and that is the greatest gift one could hope for this holiday.

-Matt Lara

Constructing the Suit: No-Bull Buttons

I’ve been in the development process for the exclusive Discerning Brute Suit Line (which will be available on BraveGentleMan.com soon!) and there are so many elements to making a good suit, and may of them are not at all animal-friendly. From bull-horn and buffalo buttons to wool fabric, from horse or goat or camel-hair interfacing and wool felt under-collar fabric, to silk thread, making a cruelty-free suit is no easy task. Many menswear factories are set up to provide stock-interfacing and thread  – and bringing in your own alternatives sometimes poses problems.

Things like buttons and interfacing are definitely more subtle elements of ethical fashion, but they are valid nonetheless.

What visually and texturally distinguishes horn buttons from alternatives like tagua nut, wood, plastic, or coconut? The buttons in the image below are typical horn buttons, carved from the horns of animals like buffalo or bull. Definitely not cruelty-free, and definitely not sustainable considering the ecological impact of livestock production.

Horn buttons come in light brown, dark brown, black, amber, and ivory. They usually have an organic texture (run your fingernail along the rim and it should have a tiny ridges, like a worn-down quarter, and often they appear to be marbleized. Upon close inspection, they have depth in the lighter areas, which are slightly translucent. Horn buttons are also typically semi-matte – unlike plastic buttons which are smooth and uniformly shiny, though many mimic the marble patter and colors.

Tagua Nut Buttons are a gorgeous, organic alternative to animal horn and plastic. They are also called Corozo, mococha and vegetable ivory. Tagua has been used in since 1750 for toys, beads, and buttons. The Tagua nut comes in various colors, shades, and patterns, and are considered the “ivory of wood”. Companies like Howies and Vaute Couture, who I’ve talked about on The Discerning Brute before, are now using Tagua Nut. The Tagua nut, it comes from a palm tree called Phytelephas Macrocarpa (a palm from South America). The nuts are gathered and dried out for 4-8 weeks, sorted and sliced. Their scientific name means “plant elephant” and the very hard white endosperm of their seeds (tagua nuts) resembles elephant ivory, does not break, and maintains the same properties as man-made buttons along with the texture and color patterning similar to horn.

SALE --Storewide Big Button Clearance--10 Nut Ivory/Tagua Nut Carved Buttons--13/16 of an inch or 2 cm--5 chocolate brown, 5 camelhowie_nut_buttons.jpg

The Tagua Nut is sustainably harvested, often fairly traded, and does not require the cutting-down of trees (since it comes from the tree’s nut). It also has such similar properties to Ivory that it has helped curb the poaching of elephants. What’s not to like? Definitely look for Tagua Nut Buttons on my upcoming suit line!

SHABD: Galactic Tie-Dye is Big. Bang.

Shabd, a Brooklyn based label, features 100% organic cotton, hand dyed tees inspired by celestial and galactic imagery. Tie Dye never looked so good, and it’s definitely back in a big-bang way!

LU FLUX: endless youth

Lu Flux is a London designer who specializes in creating unique pieces of ethical clothing that seem to emerge from fairy tales. By working with salvaged, vintage and organic fabrics, combined with traditional techniques of knitting, pleating and patchwork, the contemporary menswear and womenswear collections represent an antithesis to the modern trend of expendable fashion. The aim is to make something new out of something old, so as to consume less and reduce waste.

I spoke with Lu recently, and explained the environmental toll that livestock like sheep (wool), and cows (leather) take – even if it’s “organic”, as well as the ethical implications in general of wool and leather. I was told that there is never fur, and that Lorica (a vegan “leather”) is sometimes used. There are a few pieces in wool or leather, but Lu said, “I am thinking about using vegan Lorica for the shoes in my new collection – [and] you have put my mind in overtime with your sheep thoughts too.” I’m excited to see what sustainable, vegan creations Lu Flux will pull out of the magic hat next!

Germany’s VILDE SVANER

VILDE SVANER is a sustainably produced European line with a very wearable men’s collection. The aim of VILDE SVANER is to conciliate ecological and economical sustainability with a way of aesthetically challenging fashion. That is why VILDE SVANER uses only organic and sustainable fabrics and establishes a transparent production process for the customer.

Their garments are made from recycled mens shirts or organic cotton, and everything is dyed and manufactured locally in Germany.

They do use some leather in accessories, but I’ve spoken to designer Anne Gorke, and they are seriously considering switching over to an eco-friendly faux, which I think is a brilliant idea!


Anntian from Berlin

Anntian, a fresh, young label out of Berlin, Germany, utilizes regional manufacturing, ecological fabrics like organic cotton, and is continually seeking out sustainable methods and materials. These shirts are all 100% organic cotton and available at these shops , with several in the United States. The company does use some wool and silk in other garments, but they do not use fur or leather at all.


Did July To Me?

• It is sweltering and it’s not even July yet! This calls for some tank tops and light-weight shoes. Visit your local thrift store or get some organic cotton/ recycled poly tanks from Element, and slip-on red canvas boat shoes from Sanuk.

Element Intrans Mens Tank Top in BlackA picture of the ELEMENT Cambridge Men's Tank Top in BlueA picture of the ELEMENT Cambridge Men's Tank Top in BlackSanuk Scurvy Mens Sidewalk Surfers in Red

http://www.imageenvision.com/150/25826-clip-art-graphic-of-a-strawberry-ice-cream-cone-cartoon-character-surfing-on-a-blue-and-yellow-surfboard-by-toons4biz.jpg• Now that summer is here, it’s time to make some plans. Check out my VegNews column, Super Eco Summer for everything from vacation ideas to NYC best ice cream shoppes – from sustainable surfing tips, to backyard gardening. Yes, that’s a magical, surfing ice cream cone.

• Check out VegNews’ July Fourth survival guide for some awesome tips on food that will make any backyard barbecue sizzle.

• Stars and stripes and spangled banners and weapons exploding in mid air! It’s almost July 4th, and you know what that mean… war and meat! Well, that or a vegan hot dog-eating contest in Texas hosted by some bad-ass firefighters. If you’re in Texas and think you’re man enough to take on some serious eating competitors hwo can handle the heat, git on down to where the stars at night are big and bright. See their Facebook page.

The Final Bun-tier
4th Annual Veggie Hot Dog Eating Contest
CLICK HERE TO SIGN UP NOW!

Fashion Offenders, Every 9 Days & Animal Cruelty Syndrome

• Osborn shoes offers one vegan style for guys with cotton uppers and rubber soles. They are fair trade, small-scale, and pretty freakin’ cool. I wish all their soles were rubber!

• Treehugger recently published a list of 7 unethical companies with the most abusive labor conditions. Who made the list?

http://ngfl.northumberland.gov.uk/dt/dtclip/textiles_alb/images/sewing%20machine_JPG.jpghttp://www.fotosearch.com/bthumb/ARP/ARP124/cp_handcuffs.jpg


  1. 1. H&M: sweatshop  fire recently killed 21, organic cotton fraud, trashing unsold clothing.
  2. 2. Abercrombie & Fitch: sweatshops in Saipan, exploitative worker contracts, zero-transparency according to Corporate Responsibility, ILRF’s Hall of Shame
  3. 3. The Gap (Old Navy & Banana Republic): New Delhi child labor, Saipan sweatshops labeled as “Made in USA”, Forced abortions on female factory workers.
  4. 4. Nike: Human trafficking and indentured slavery, anti-union policies,  sweatshops and unpaid workers.
  5. 5. Limited Brands (Victoria’s Secret, Bath and Body Works, Express and The Limited): Jordanian sweatshops, human trafficking & slave labor.
  6. 6. Phillips-Van Heusen (Calvin Klein): violent sweatshops, forced labor in Saipan.
  7. 7. Wal-Mart: criminal labor practices, sweatshops.

Cleanup workers toiling on the beach at Grand Isle, La.

• A New York Times article today reports on the grossly underestimated amount of oil gushing into the Gulf. “A government panel on Thursday essentially doubled its estimate of how much oil has been spewing from the out-of-control BP well, with the new calculation suggesting that an amount equivalent to the Exxon Valdez disaster could be flowing into the Gulf of Mexico every 8 to 10 days. The new estimate is 25,000 to 30,000 barrels of oil a day. That range, still preliminary, is far above the previous estimate of 12,000 to 19,000 barrels a day.”

• The New York Times Magazine, this week, has a heart-wrenching and though-provoking feature article on a phenomenon many psychologists, criminologists, prosecutors, veterinarians, and law enforcement professionals have suspected for a very long time: cruelty towards animals is directly connected to violence towards other people. “… a growing sensitivity to the rights of animals, another significant reason for the increased attention to animal cruelty is a mounting body of evidence about the link between such acts and serious crimes of more narrowly human concern, including illegal firearms possession, drug trafficking, gambling, spousal and child abuse, rape and homicide.”

Swedish Chic & Lucky Duck

I visited the Eco Chic showcase at the Scandanavia House in Manhattan to get a sense of what’s happening with sustainable fashion in Europe and beyond. There wasn’t a ton of menswear, but there were some gems, and below I’ll share the highlights. My favorite piece in the show was an organic, Japanese denim suit that had a hand-feel very similar to wool. It’s nice to find non-wool suits, now that we know that wool production is one of largest sources of greenhouse gas emissions (for example, New Zealand’s 40 million sheep constitute 90% of the country’s greenhouse gas emissions). Julian Red, a sustainable Swedish clothing line, harnesses ecological textiles and fair labor, turning them into universally attractive garments. Over 60% of their entire collection is organic.

Bergman’s has the claim of being the first commercially available organic cotton in the world, beginning in 1986. With partners as big as Levi’s, their have their fingers in many pies. Bergman’s also developed the criteria for organic certification of cotton and textiles, which have been adopted globally. On a neighboring dress form was Zion, a street fashion label using organic cotton, fair labor, and water-based dyes free of heavy-metals. They also support a tree-planting initiative in Tanzania to reduce carbon.

• I was One Lucky Duck when I tried all these scrumptious snacks from the company of the same name. It’s hard for me not to nosh all day long while working or running errands. It’s helpful to have snacks that aren’t going to kill you (either by taste or lack or nutrition). My two favorites are the rich, dark chocolate macaroons and the cheese-y ‘quackers’. They are sophisticated, indulgent, and healthfully vegan, raw and locally made in NYC, like all their treats. One Luck Duck is has two locations in New York: the Chelsea Market, and Gramercy, but their treats can be purchased from anywhere on their website: www.oneluckyduck.com