Pride and Luxury

Grasp your pearls, for the future of the luxury market is at risk! We saw this video over at EcoStiletto (a special that appeared on The Luxury Channel) and were both intrigued and sort of disgusted by these luxury brands who are finally realizing that their own futures are at risk if the resource-tap they call Earth dries up. With their own mortality in sight, the main question this video raises is, “Does looking and acting rich conflict with sustainability?” Hello? Does a bear shit in the woods?

Let’s get over the noble idea that these brands actually care about the Earth, right now. It’s like the classic case where a Hollywood mega-star get’s a disease and then suddenly they’re the biggest advocate for finding a cure. They are simply trying to save their own existence, which is not the worst thing. Often it can help, but in the case of an entire market, that means certain sacred cows can not be questioned. Like what? Poverty. Caste and class systems. Money. Materialism. Greed. Hierarchical power structures. Resource access. Viewing the planet as a stockpile of resources. Anthropocentrism. The list goes on.

Damn the Fashionistas!

One glaring issue is that companies like Gucci, Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Alexander MQueen, and others that rule the world of luxury, who perpetuate images of desirable and unattainable lifestyles, are all addicted to leather, fur, cashmere, wool, and other animal products. We also know that raising livestock is the single greatest ecological threat that exists. So, until these brands convert all their products to be vegan (which is possible), it’s all greenwashing and very difficult to take them seriously. Even Stella McCartney, who uses no fur or leather, still uses plenty of wool. Once again, when talking about environment and sustainability, the livestock industry was completely brushed over and left out, although it is the single greatest contributor to greenhouse gas emissions.

If we leave it up to luxury brands to define the mainstream understanding of environmentalism, of course extracting things from nature and turning them into expensive products (and the social and political atmosphere maintaining their position to do those things) will not be questioned in itself. If we let luxury brands use their powerful positions to create the mainstream discourse on sustainability, it’s like letting a drug addict head up the ATF.

I was astounded to hear the list of luxury brands who helped create the documentary Home” by Yann Arthus Bertrand. Do they not see how drastically they need to change everything about themselves? If the current definition of sustainability is “meeting the needs of the present without undermining the ability of future generations to meet their needs” then I wonder whether these brands could ever be capable of accommodating such an aspiration as that?

According to the video, the “I am not a plastic bag” phenomenon reduced plastic bag consumption in England, but is it Fur is Greedsimply an accessory of mass distraction as The Observer’s George Monibiot suggests? My fear is that greenwashing will prevail, not unlike the Canadian Fur Council’s  “Fur is Green” and Diesel’s “Global Warming Ready” campaigns, and they will attempt to capitalize on the market value of “green” as opposed to actually changing industry practices from labor and environmental impact to animal welfare.

Heritage is what is at risk for luxury brands. Changing the factories, formulas, and ingredients of their products changes who they are at the core, which is a huge and uncertain undertaking. But if done thoroughly, honestly, and openly, it’s more than an opportunity. It’s common sense. It’s not biting off the hand that feeds them. It’s realizing that there is only one Planet Earth, yet many of us live in a way that requires three Earths to sustain the status quo.

What do you think? Can luxury brands change their ways? Or is the very nature of luxury in conflict with sustainability?

Men’s Fashion Week AW2010: Paris & Milan

All Villains?

Men’s Fashion Week for Fall 2010 in Paris and Milan is well underway, and Designers seem obsessed with creating villains. Ann Demeulemees covered the runways in excessive furs, feathers and leather in attempt at at what Hint Mag referred to as a Rocked-Out-Count-Dracula. Well, maybe she got the blood-thirst right, but there’s nothing  attractive (or interesting) about a man covered in the forty bodies of anally and vaginally electrocuted mink.

http://hintmagazine.verbsite.com.lg1.simplecdn.net/__data/3bd6c217ecdf8985dd165981614cd65a.jpghttp://hintmagazine.verbsite.com.lg1.simplecdn.net/__data/69996eccab6e96abeec6451738ababec.jpg

The Comme des Garçons collection by Rei Kawakubo also featured a bear coat. That’s right. A coat made from a bear that looked less “real” than a faux, and Hermés perpetuated the tired fur-trim collar. Los Angeles-based Rick Owens‘ disco-star-ship-Hellraiser was not only a hideously cruel collection of snake-boots and snake-n-fur gloves and coats, but it also looked like the stuff of costumey evil-queens. While his use of pattern and print is definitely exciting, Alexander McQueen needs to know that the skull and crossbones is over. It was over in 2004. He must have been playing Mortal Kombat, because his ninja-masked men in suits looked like bad-guy Scorpian and just could not be taken seriously – especially with silly fur-shoulders and fur-trim hoods.

http://hintmagazine.verbsite.com.lg1.simplecdn.net/__data/a4a76c9980c3ac60a17ee26f4fd5a5d2.jpgHermès Fall 2010Rick Owens Fall 2010Alexander McQueen Fall 2010

It was fitting that Dsquared payed tribute to horror flicks, considering the horror-films that have documented how fur, feathers, wool and leather are made into “fashion”. Moncler Gamme Bleu by Thom Browne had what looked like a gorilla suit – fur from head to toe.

Sometimes I really wonder what the hell is wrong with designers like D&G, Costume National, Gucci and Armani? Can you be in such a bubble that you convince yourself that aesthetics somehow justifies anything? Like cliché horror films in an age of awareness, these concepts are shocking at first, but rarely innovative. These designers act as though they are rebelling by designing against awareness but this is like cutting off the nose to spite the face, especially in a time when there are so many amazing alternatives, fauxs, and revolutionary sustainable and eco-fabrics. It’s not enough to simply hope designers will “get it” and make the common-sense connection between fabric and animals, exercise basic compassion or empathy, or realize that their talents would not be stunted by taking the time to find alternative and cutting-edge fabrics – we actually have to tell them to stop. All this means that designs are getting comfy using fur with no indication of concern or awareness. We need to step it up, because it’s only getting worse!

Dsquared² Fall 2010Gucci Fall 2010Moncler Gamme Bleu Fall 2010

Meanwhile, designers who managed to steer clear of fur like Adam Kimmel, went with insane casino villians in velvet suits. Dries Van Noten offered a polished but mischievous ivy-leaguer with mismatched sleeves and a rocker edge, Junya Watanabe captured the indy-rock dandy, and Viktor & Rolf gave us their love for the mid-century prep with modern details. Bottega Veneta was all about the rockabilly bad-boy, and Kris Van Assche‘s minimalist men stuck to black, white and gray urban basics. Mens’ Varsace and Prada (while drowning in leather) seemed to have passed on fur this fall season.

Adam Kimmel Fall 2010Dries Van Noten Fall 2010Junya Watanabe Fall 2010Viktor & Rolf Fall 2010Bottega Veneta Fall 2010Kris Van Assche Fall 2010

The mainstream press seemed to have steered clear of Geneva, Switzerland last week (January 20-21) where the Eco-Chic Fashion Show was held in partnership with the UN featuring 21 eco-couture designers and 23 ready-to-wear-designers.

EcoChic Geneva, Eco Chic Geneva, Green2Greener, Summer Rayne Oakes, Kate Dillon, Geneva fashion events, UN Geneva, eco fashion, sustainable fashion biodiversity, year of biodiversity, sustainable development, European eco fashion

SPRING 08 STYLE REPORT: Slim Lounge, Urban Sport & Back to Nature

by DB Style Director, Jodi Taylor

Jodi Taylor DB Special Comment: Jodi Taylor is a fashion designer and stylist living in New York City. She is also my roommate and business partner in our vegan, organic, dinner party catering company “Savory & Seed”. Her comprehensive Spring 2008 Men’s fashion report serves as evidence of her fashion expertise and as a tool to inspire fashion decisions based on current trends.

* NOTE: Many of the runway images used in this report are for inspirational purposes only, as the designers use leather , fur, and wool products.

Springtime is always refreshing. Shedding the heavy winter jacket and lightening up the wardrobe with new spring looks can make you feel like a dapper gent.

This spring, my three favorite looks are Slim Lounge, Urban Sport & Back to Nature. All of these themes are easy to incorporate into your current wardrobe. Choose the one that suits you the best so you feel comfortable and confident…you want to own the style not vice versa. Here is how to keep up with the seasons top trends while staying squeaky-green!

1.SLIM LOUNGE

Givenchy spring 2008Valentino Spring 08

  • For this style, think 70’s lounge meets gangster with a little rock & roll .
  • Wear a 3-piece suit relaxed, and unbutton the first few buttons of your shirt.
  • Don’t be afraid of the ascot or a slim light cotton scarf. If you need a little help tying your tie or scarf click HERE.
  • Try mixing a subtle print and texture as well as vintage pieces to your collection.
  • Go thrifting and look for pieces to add to your wardrobe like a printed polo or a slim fit button up.
  • If you wear a tie, do it skinny, easy to get vintage.

The 70’s lounge look is a little tricky, don’t overdo it otherwise it will end up looking a little too theatrical.

The color palette for this look should be subdued. Chose smooth and charismatic colors that will go from day to night; charcoals and shades of gray, navy, black and khaki. Add a little warmth to your ensemble with a muted lavender or teal.

Stay subtle in color and pattern, but combine it with a two-tone suit or a printed shirt under a plain vest or blazer to make a statement. Classic black & white also works for this look and is a simple solution that’s always in.

Etro Sping 2008

key items for this look:

  • crisp button up with a more pronounced collar
  • fitted slacks & blazer that give you a slim silhouette
  • white jeans
  • printed polo shirts
  • loafers
  • tapered white pants

How to get it:

The jacket and vest – I love this Dogtooth shawl collar waistcoat and skinny blazer, both 100% cotton at Topman.

WaistcoatSkinny Blazer

If you can’t find your 70’s style button up shirt vintage try this organic us made button down collar shirt at Boll Organic. I also recommend Ted Baker and Paul Smith for the best fit and hottest look.. don’t freak out – they’re worth the price!

The printed polo – For the cool pastel print polo to wear with your black skinny jeans and plimsoles, get the placement print polo shirt at asos.com

Printed Polo

Must have the Hot skinny jeans – Acne makes a great beige pair available at www.barneys.com Or for more texture I like these white painted jeans from topman.com

Acne Jeanspainted jeans

For the shoes I recommend these Brown faux wingtips or loafers by NOHARM, sharp! Buys these babies on Togged.

NOHARM wingtips

If you need a bag, like I do, complete the look with this faux-leather “Dirty Harry” briefcase by Matt & Nat.

Dirty Harry

2. URBAN SPORT

Admen spring 2008

Ferragamo

Spring is for Sport and getting in shape, so lets prep it up with comfy style and small pops of color. Think street sport meets country club. Achieve this look with casual knits paired with technical fabric pieces and carefully selected accessories. This easy to wear style is inspired by tennis, soccer and is a fusion of tough meets refined.

  • layers and neutral base colors are key for this look
  • tees and polos with trim, cropped, cotton trousers
  • track jackets over washed button ups with scarves & gloves
  • don’t forget a little aristocratic embellishment like a coat of arms patch or pin but do it vintage and apply it yourself for the best results!

This look definitely requires the right attitude, so wear the mood along with the look.

The colors for this look are the basic neutrals: black, gray, khaki and white used in combination with small pops of color that make the look, like deep red, blue, and yellow.

Essential items for this look:

  • wind breaker
  • crop pants
  • track jackets
  • no sox or ankle sox
  • tennis shoes, shorts
  • fun accessories like the fingerless gloves
  • sheer textural summer scarf

How to get it:

I suggest you put this look together with these must-have items.

The Polo – Get this handsome fair trade, organic cotton slim fit “Jaguar Polo” at Adili.

Fair Trade Polo

The Wind Breaker – “Rasta Rain Coat” from the eco-friendly skaters at ipath.

Wind Breaker

The track jacket – This 100% organic cotton loomstate track jacket is great, get it at the greenloop. I also suggest the Hemp track Jacket available at ipath.

LoomstateHemp Track Jacket

The Pants and Shorts – Wear the tapered cotton trousers with a crisp or messy cuff. The cotton, ‘Pringle of Scotland’ pants are at Saks. The crop pant is more affordable at Topman. Get great navy seersucker shorts or if you would rather gray cut off sweat- shorts both cotton and both available at RPM Clothing. (Remember, cutoff sweats are cheap and easy to make yourself!)

Pringle of Scotland Cropped Trousers

SeersuckerCutoff Shorts

The tee – Choose from Edun’s wide selection of organic tees, I like the “Cameo” & “twisted tree” avaliable from Edun.

Tree TeeEdun Tee - Cameo

The Scarf – I love this white checker, light weight cotton “Wem” scarf at equip, or just get it from the street vendors on St Marks place if you’re in New York.

Wem Scarf

The shoes – We saw chrome lace-ups on the runway for spring from Gucci.

Gucci Chrome

You can work this look with the vegan slim shoe like the lace up canvas “plimsole” in silver or white from Asos.

Silver PlimsolesWhite Plimsole

Boat Shoe – On the Gucchi Spring ’08 runway, we also saw these sporty, nautical themed shoes:

Gucci BoatGo for the original (and vegan) classics at Sperry Top-Sider. Also available in white & khaki.  *READER JASON informs us these have leather laces!! Yuck! steer clear.

Sperry

The Gloves – Yellow cotton fingerless gloves can complete the look, get them at topman.

Yellow Fingerless

The Bag – this vegan white tote is where it’s at for sporty style “Dunlap Retro Bag” available at topman, or this PVC-free, vegan Parapete canvas and gun-metal chrome tote at Amazon.

PVC Retro Bag Parapete Tote

3.BACK TO NATURE

Helmut Lang Spring 2008

Varvatos

Take winter into spring with this seemingly effortless look…being green has never been so trendy. This season the raw, organic, recycled look is in with an influence of military styling.

  • Be slightly disheveled, push up your sleeves don’t iron the shirt; relax because it just adds character.
  • Go for oversize jackets, linen pants & raw denim.
  • Feel complete in soft jersey henleys & the broken in button up.
  • Accessorize with wooden prayer beads, ethnic scarves with coins and other worldly charms that you find along the way.

The color palette for this style is elegant, yet rugged – let the palette and textures of your wardrobe reflect the variegations and subtleties in nature and the city. Neutral & weathered gray, pale green & khaki work well and let you be a part of the city and nature at the same time.

The must have items are:

  • the worn in blazer or coat
  • the perfect long sleeve henley
  • the linen cargo pant
  • the ethnic scarf
  • prayer beads
  • a cool, conscious attitude

How to get the look:

Synchronize the style with the following items;

The Jacket – This piece will transition from winter to spring perfectly – “Warsaw” trench in olive, 100% cotton, or go for a lighter jacket like the Nice collective “Event Jacket” both available @ frankeys.com

Warsaw TrenchEvent Jacket

The organic tee – hooded, washed & ready to go, get this shark gray cotton hoodie by NSF at Barneys.

organic hooded tee

The Linen Pant – give your legs some omega 3′s with this organic cotton/linen(AKA flax) pant from Edun. The “shillingford” military pants available at Saks:

Organic Linen (flax) pant.

Organic Jeans – These Nudie, dry-aged organic jeans are a hit, get em at Tobi.

Nudie Organic

The Scarf – deep red check, light weight cotton summer scarf at topman, or if you live in New York, just get it from the street vendors on St Mark’s Place for cheap.

Mini check

The Beads – Support Tibetan artisans while relaxing and chanting your mantra of choice with this Dark bodhi Seed Mala necklaces at dharmashop.

Beads

The Bag – Feed Hungry children around the world with this cool “feed” tote that matches your style at amazon.com.

Feed ChidrenFeed Chidren