Lionhearts & Battle Cries: 20 Lines for 2010

by Joshua Katcher
featured on HintMag.com

Tevas with socks. Cargo Pants. Slogan tees. Let’s face it, people who care about ecosystems, animals, and worker’s rights aren’t typically celebrated for their sartorial poise. Likewise, most designers who care about form, function, and aesthetics aren’t typically known for their environmental wisdom or empathy; Fur coats, leather everything, toxic cotton, sweatshops.

There is new breed of designer, though, not so easily written off, who can turn old televisions into jaw-dropping shoes, who foster relationships with organic cotton farmers in developing countries, who invest in research and development of warm, biodegradable, recycled, cruelty-free textiles, whose aesthetic vision is not hampered by the challenges of navigating ethical dilemmas, and who – armed with tencel, lenpur, hemp, recycled fabrics, faux-fur, soda-bottle ultrasuede, and organics – aren’t afraid of challenging the tragic credo set by heritage brands.  In a culture where the iconography of the rebel is tied up in so many embarrassingly common and mainstream social, environmental and ethical muddles, these true iconoclasts are redefining cool, and reinvigorating the lost meaning of dressing like a dissident.

1. Vaute Couture. Leanne Mai-Ly Hilgart is the prefect example of a designer who dreamed big. Her line went from a fantasy (gorgeous, eco, vegan winter coats that can handle Chicago in February) to reality. The line looks as amazing as it is warm and ethical; 100% Cruelty-free, sustainable, and fair-labor. Vaute Couture took over 8 months of fabric research and development and launched just last year, but has already garnered a host of celeb fanatics from Emily Deschanel, to Alicia Silverstone, and Ginnifer Goodwin. The men’s line launches August 2010. vautecouture.com

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Dutiful Denim

G-Star Raw, organic cotton jacket

G-Star Raw continues to be a leader both in design, and in advocacy. They use sustainable fabrics like organic cotton and they are also at the forefront where socially responsible production methods and labor are concerned. Check out G-Star’s End Poverty 2015 Campaign in affiliation with the UN’s Millennium Goals. Here’s how you can get involved.

End poverty by 2015. This is the historic promise 189 world leaders made at the United Nations Millennium Summit in 2000 when they signed onto the Millennium Declaration and agreed to meet the “Millennium Development Goals (MDGs). The MDGs are an eight-point road map with measurable targets and clear deadlines for improving the lives of the world’s poorest people. World leaders have agreed to achieve the MDGs by 2015.

We are looking forward to G-Star’s new collection for AW2010 and hope to report to you from the NYC Runway show next week!

G-Star Raw, organic cotton "alcatraz loose" denim

G-Star Raw, organic cotton "alcatraz loose tapered" denim

Another leader in the denim world is the European line, Kuyichi. Kuichi continues to use hemp, organic cotton, linen, lenpur, spare fabric, tencel, cotton in conversion, recycled poly, recycled cotton, bamboo, natural dyes, and recycled wool. Unfortunately, they do produce some leather, and we have reached out to them to see if they’d be willing to drop it.

Kuyichi, Hemp Shirt and Hemp Denim

Kuyichi, Spare Fabric shirt

Kuyichi, recycled poly jacket, organic cotton denim

Kyuichi, Organic Denim

KUYICHI

KUYICHI is an organic, fair-trade line launched in 2001 in the Netherlands that captures a young, casually-edgy and effortless cool aesthetic. Kuyichi was born when the Dutch NGO Solidaridad discovered how harmful conventional cotton was while setting up fair-trade programs with food. They were the first denim and fashion line to use organic kuyichicotton, and they continue to pioneer innovative and sustainable methods of production including recycling water and natural dyes, considering both labor and environment. Every KUYICHI garment has a “Track & Trade” code on the tag, and using this code, you can track the history of each garment using this amazing web tool. KUYICHI is SA8000 certified which means no child labor or discrimination, no sweatshops, fair pay and hours, and heathcare and safety for workers.

With influences ranging from grunge-rock and vintage military to yippis and bikers – KUYICHI features materials like organic cotton, bamboo denim, linen denim, spare denim, hemp denim, recycled PET and Lenpur.  Find out the details about these materials by clicking HERE. Unfortunately, they do use some vegetable-tanned leather, which, according to the UN, still comes from the #1 cause of global warming: Raising animals for agriculture. I hope they nix the leather all-together in favor of waxed and treated plant-based materials, or eco-friendly fauxs.

You can purchase their garments ONLINE.