Pride and Luxury

Grasp your pearls, for the future of the luxury market is at risk! We saw this video over at EcoStiletto (a special that appeared on The Luxury Channel) and were both intrigued and sort of disgusted by these luxury brands who are finally realizing that their own futures are at risk if the resource-tap they call Earth dries up. With their own mortality in sight, the main question this video raises is, “Does looking and acting rich conflict with sustainability?” Hello? Does a bear shit in the woods?

Let’s get over the noble idea that these brands actually care about the Earth, right now. It’s like the classic case where a Hollywood mega-star get’s a disease and then suddenly they’re the biggest advocate for finding a cure. They are simply trying to save their own existence, which is not the worst thing. Often it can help, but in the case of an entire market, that means certain sacred cows can not be questioned. Like what? Poverty. Caste and class systems. Money. Materialism. Greed. Hierarchical power structures. Resource access. Viewing the planet as a stockpile of resources. Anthropocentrism. The list goes on.

Damn the Fashionistas!

One glaring issue is that companies like Gucci, Balenciaga, Yves Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Alexander MQueen, and others that rule the world of luxury, who perpetuate images of desirable and unattainable lifestyles, are all addicted to leather, fur, cashmere, wool, and other animal products. We also know that raising livestock is the single greatest ecological threat that exists. So, until these brands convert all their products to be vegan (which is possible), it’s all greenwashing and very difficult to take them seriously. Even Stella McCartney, who uses no fur or leather, still uses plenty of wool. Once again, when talking about environment and sustainability, the livestock industry was completely brushed over and left out, although it is the single greatest contributor to greenhouse gas emissions.

If we leave it up to luxury brands to define the mainstream understanding of environmentalism, of course extracting things from nature and turning them into expensive products (and the social and political atmosphere maintaining their position to do those things) will not be questioned in itself. If we let luxury brands use their powerful positions to create the mainstream discourse on sustainability, it’s like letting a drug addict head up the ATF.

I was astounded to hear the list of luxury brands who helped create the documentary Home” by Yann Arthus Bertrand. Do they not see how drastically they need to change everything about themselves? If the current definition of sustainability is “meeting the needs of the present without undermining the ability of future generations to meet their needs” then I wonder whether these brands could ever be capable of accommodating such an aspiration as that?

According to the video, the “I am not a plastic bag” phenomenon reduced plastic bag consumption in England, but is it Fur is Greedsimply an accessory of mass distraction as The Observer’s George Monibiot suggests? My fear is that greenwashing will prevail, not unlike the Canadian Fur Council’s  “Fur is Green” and Diesel’s “Global Warming Ready” campaigns, and they will attempt to capitalize on the market value of “green” as opposed to actually changing industry practices from labor and environmental impact to animal welfare.

Heritage is what is at risk for luxury brands. Changing the factories, formulas, and ingredients of their products changes who they are at the core, which is a huge and uncertain undertaking. But if done thoroughly, honestly, and openly, it’s more than an opportunity. It’s common sense. It’s not biting off the hand that feeds them. It’s realizing that there is only one Planet Earth, yet many of us live in a way that requires three Earths to sustain the status quo.

What do you think? Can luxury brands change their ways? Or is the very nature of luxury in conflict with sustainability?

Pink & Ricky Gervais Star in Incredible PETA ad

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PETA’s brilliant, new video features the voices of Pink and Ricky Gervais as a rabbit and alligator duo who have a very interesting confrontation with some people at the coat check. Read More

Paul Smith F09, Our Enemy Jason Wu & UK Hospitals to Go Veg

http://www.fattyweightloss.com/uploaded_images/picture-fruit-and-veg-785549.jpgIt seems that Europe is always strides ahead of the rest of the world when it comes to health, environment, and social justice. Meat-free menus are to be promoted in UK hospitals as part of a strategy to cut global warming emissions across the National Health Service. This will have several benefits in addition to cutting the #1 cause of global warming, considering the number of diseases associated with meat consumption. ♦LISTEN♦ to Juliette Jowit on her proposal to cut NHS carbon emissions.

Paul Smith’s Paris runway collection for Fall ’09 took flight 2 days ago. My favorite parts of the collection are the double-breasted, high contrast plaid waistcoats, mis-matched tartans,  the meticulous layering, and obviously  – the bow tie. The weathered chelsea boots and hearty twill jackets with pops of color are great for urban boys with bucolic nostalgia – or country boys with city dreams. Collections like these remain a fantasy for many of us who have ethical and ecological aspirations that designers like Paul  Smith haven’t quite been enlightened to yet.  It seems many designers have some fashionable chip on their shoulders, and the thought of doing ‘good’ can’t play into their rebel ambitions. By oh contraire mon frere, the only real iconoclasts are those challenging the great myth. Since Paul has been know to use rabbit fur in his collections, I am thrilled to not see any of that grotesque stuff for Fall ’09. My ideal? All organics, recycled fabrics, and cruelty-free -  don’t change a thing about the aesthetic. Oh, to dream!

http://www.integritytoys.com/images/itjason.jpgJason Wu is about to become my enemy. After designing Mrs. Obama’s evening gown, he recieved 4 million hits to his website, and what do you think he’s doing with this newfound stardom? Unfortunately, I was absolutely horrified and disgusted when I read his quote on Ecorazzi: “I’m doing a significant fur collection, and the message will be all about luxury.” Ugh! Jason! Please don’t use your powers for evil! Not only is the stone age over, but it would be so typical and thoughless! (Not to mention that promoting luxury in this economic climate might come across as poorly planned). We need visionaries here, not the same old crap. We need to redefine glamour and luxury in ways that don’t torture helpless animals.