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	<title>The Discerning Brute: fashion, food &#38; etiquette for the ethically handsome man &#187; phillip lim</title>
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	<description>fashion, food &#38; etiquette for the ethically handsome man</description>
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		<title>Animal Fur Sold as Fake at Barneys New York</title>
		<link>http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/21/animal-fur-sold-as-fake-at-barneys-new-york/</link>
		<comments>http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/21/animal-fur-sold-as-fake-at-barneys-new-york/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 21 Dec 2010 21:09:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>joshuakatcher</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[fashion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[news]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[barney's]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[faux fur]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[phillip lim]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[scandal]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[truth in fur labeling]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/?p=6016</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<span class="image-rss"><a href="http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/21/animal-fur-sold-as-fake-at-barneys-new-york/"><img title="Animal Fur Sold as Fake at Barneys New York" src="http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/PhillipLim.png" alt="Animal Fur Sold as Fake at Barneys New York" width="200" height="81" /></a></span><br/>It's bad enough that designers still use fur. It's cruel, unnecessary, and when you wear it, it means you hate animals. But what's worse is that designers and stores are still breaking the law and labeling real fur as "faux" in order to keep money rolling in for the fur mafia - whose sleazy tactics [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<span class="image-rss"><a href="http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2010/12/21/animal-fur-sold-as-fake-at-barneys-new-york/"><img title="Animal Fur Sold as Fake at Barneys New York" src="http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/PhillipLim.png" alt="Animal Fur Sold as Fake at Barneys New York" width="200" height="81" /></a></span><br/><strong>It's bad enough that designers still use fur.</strong> It's cruel, unnecessary, and when you wear it, it means you hate animals. But what's worse is that designers and stores are still breaking the law and labeling real fur as "faux" in order to keep money rolling in for the fur mafia - whose sleazy tactics and multi-million dollar marketing campaigns insist that you should ignore the inherent cruelty and selfishly indulge in an outdated status symbol. The full article:

<a href="http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/PhillipLim.png"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-6017" title="PhillipLim" src="http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/PhillipLim.png" alt="" width="540" height="220" /></a>
<blockquote><em><strong>A Humane Society of the United States Investigation Reveals “Faux Fur” Deception</strong></em>

WASHINGTON (Dec. 21, 2010)--The Humane Society of the United States revealed through laboratory testing that a Phillip Lim brand parka sold online by Barneys New York as “faux fur” is real animal fur, and that the same Phillip Lim parka was sold in the Manhattan flagship store without the “real fur” label required by New York state law.

“Consumers have a right to know what they are buying,” said Pierre Grzybowski, manager of the Fur-Free Campaign at The HSUS. “The Humane Society of the United States calls on Barneys to take immediate action to ensure that unsuspecting consumers are not duped into purchasing animal fur when they intend to purchase a cruelty-free alternative.”

<strong>August 2007: New York state fur labeling bill      signed into law requiring all animal fur to be indicated      as “real fur” on label.</strong>

Selling unlabeled real animal fur-trim jackets has been allowed for decades through a loophole in the nearly 60-year-old federal fur labeling law, but a new bill signed on Saturday by President Obama will close this loophole. H.R.2480, The Truth in Fur Labeling Act, will take effect in March and will require all garments made with animal fur to be labeled and advertised with the correct species of animal on the label. It is unlawful to describe garments containing animal fur as “faux fur.” Violations of the federal fur labeling law carry up to a $5,000 fine and a year in prison.

New York state passed its own law several years ago to address this deception in the marketplace and protect consumers. Under New York state law, fur garments must be identified as “real fur” or “faux fur” on a fixed label.  Violations carry penalties of up to $500 for the first violation and up to $1,000 for each subsequent violation.

<a href="http://www.humanesociety.org/assets/pdfs/fur/barneys_philip_lim.pdf" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.humanesociety.org/assets/pdfs/fur/barneys_philip_lim.pdf?referer=');">Images </a>of garments, ads and labels for both garments are available.

<strong>Timeline and Facts:</strong>
<ul>
	<li>• Dec. 18, 2010: President Obama signs H.R. 2480,      the Truth in Fur Labeling Act, into law. It goes into effect 90 days from      the time of signing.</li>
	<li>• August 2010: HSUS investigators purchased a 3.1      Phillip Lim brand “<em>amber…oversized silk blend button front parka with      removable faux fur collar trim” </em>from Barneys.com. Hangtag indicates:      “Style: F110-8156HST.” Lab results: animal in the Canidae Family, possibly      coyote.</li>
	<li>• September 2010: HSUS investigators purchased a      3.1 Phillip Lim brand “<em>amber…oversized parka w/dlbe function removable      fur clr</em>” from the Barneys New York flagship store in Manhattan.      Hangtag indicates: “Style: F110-8156HST.”  There is no label      indicating whether the fur is real or fake. HSUS has confirmed the fur is      real animal fur.</li>
</ul>
</blockquote>]]></content:encoded>
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		</item>
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		<title>Judicious Gentlemanswear</title>
		<link>http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2008/09/12/judicious-gentlemanswear/</link>
		<comments>http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2008/09/12/judicious-gentlemanswear/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 12 Sep 2008 23:41:08 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>TheDiscerningBrute</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[environmental justice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fair trade]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fashion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[green]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[news]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[social responsibility]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[trend report]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegetarian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[band of outsiders]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[culturata organics]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dkny]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Gilded Age]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lacoste]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[linda loudermilk]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[marc jacobs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[menswear spring 2009]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[NSF]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Organic by John Patrick]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[patrik Ervell]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[phillip lim]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rag & bone]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[robert geller]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tommy hillfiger]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[trovata]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[turk + taylor]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[turk and taylor]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thediscerningbrute.wordpress.com/?p=428</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<span class="image-rss"><a href="http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2008/09/12/judicious-gentlemanswear/"><img title="Judicious Gentlemanswear" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/BOOMEN/RUNWAY/00190m.jpg" alt="Judicious Gentlemanswear" width="133" height="200" /></a></span><br/>1. Fashion Week: Spring 09 Menswear Spring '09 will be full of stripes, neutrals with pops of color, and above-the-ankle pants. Band of Outsiders offered casual, laceless loafers, 80's inspired kid-hipster cuts, and a sense of playing film-noir dress-up. The DKNY man was mostly tie-less and laid back, wearing canvass sneaks. Ducky Brown was inspired [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<span class="image-rss"><a href="http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2008/09/12/judicious-gentlemanswear/"><img title="Judicious Gentlemanswear" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/BOOMEN/RUNWAY/00190m.jpg" alt="Judicious Gentlemanswear" width="133" height="200" /></a></span><br/><img class="alignleft" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/DKNYMEN/RUNWAY/00160m.jpg" alt="" width="130" height="195" /><img class="alignleft" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/BOOMEN/RUNWAY/00190m.jpg" alt="" width="129" height="194" /><strong></strong>

<strong>1. Fashion Week: Spring 09 Menswear</strong>

Spring '09 will be full of stripes, neutrals with pops of color, and above-the-ankle pants. <a title="Band of Outsiders" href="http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/complete/slideshow/BOOMEN?loop=0&amp;event=&amp;designer=BOOMEN&amp;trend=&amp;slideshowId=slideshow51225&amp;iphoto=31&amp;play=false&amp;cnt=37" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/complete/slideshow/BOOMEN?loop=0_amp_event=_amp_designer=BOOMEN_amp_trend=_amp_slideshowId=slideshow51225_amp_iphoto=31_amp_play=false_amp_cnt=37&amp;referer=');">Band of Outsiders</a> offered casual, laceless loafers, 80's inspired kid-hipster cuts, and a sense of playing film-noir dress-up. The <a title="DKNY spring 09" href="http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/DKNYMEN" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/DKNYMEN?referer=');">DKNY man</a> was mostly tie-less and laid back, wearing canvass sneaks. Ducky Brown was inspired by bike messengers and swimmers' spandex, <a title="Lacoste spring 09" href="http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/LACOSTEMEN" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/LACOSTEMEN?referer=');">Lacoste</a>'s man in red <img class="alignleft" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/LACOSTEMEN/RUNWAY/00250m.jpg" alt="" width="118" height="178" /><img class="alignleft" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/MARCMEN/RUNWAY/00030m.jpg" alt="" width="116" height="180" />simply <img class="alignleft" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/PERVMEN/RUNWAY/00140m.jpg" alt="" width="120" height="180" />showcased polos and cuffed, fitted slacks. <a title="Marc Jacobs Spring 09" href="http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/MARCMEN" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/MARCMEN?referer=');">Marc Jacobs</a>' double-belts, volume, and stripes followed the trends this season. <a title="Patrik Ervell spring 09" href="http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/PERVMEN" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/PERVMEN?referer=');">Patrik Ervell</a> toyed around with glam rock-a-billy, <a title="Rag &amp; Bone" href="http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/RBMEN" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/RBMEN?referer=');">Rag &amp; Bone</a> just went straight for the many schools of punk, and <a title="Robert Geller spring 09" href="http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/RGMEN" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/RGMEN?referer=');">Robert Gell</a><a title="Robert Geller spring 09" href="http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/RGMEN" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/RGMEN?referer=');">er</a> took us to eastern Europe, with Gypsy-softened, military cuts.

<img class="alignleft" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/RBMEN/RUNWAY/00090m.jpg" alt="" width="160" height="235" /><a title="Robert Geller spring 09" href="http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/RGMEN" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/RGMEN?referer=');"><img class="alignleft" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/RGMEN/RUNWAY/00080m.jpg" alt="" width="162" height="235" /></a>

<a title="Robert Geller spring 09" href="http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/RGMEN" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/RGMEN?referer=');">
</a>

What we know about menswear is that there is little flexibility (at least in comparison to womens' fashion) concerning garments. There are things that define men - suits, ties, knits, hats, waistcoats, jackets, slacks, and certain accessories. In the world of menswear, the leather jacket is almost as defining to male gender as the Bloody Steak is in the world of cuisine. Aside from the perpetual re-modification of tailoring, cuts, and fits - most menswear designers are lost in a cyclical pattern of rotating colors, prints, eras, and fibers. Surprisingly, it is easy to use organic cotton instead of <a title="Conventional Cotton" href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n39T35Ia_4" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.youtube.com/watch?v=3n39T35Ia_4&amp;referer=');">conventional cotton</a>. It is easy to find alternatives to <a title="Leather" href="http://www.cowsarecool.com/" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.cowsarecool.com/?referer=');">leather</a> and <a title="Fur" href="http://www.furisdead.com/" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.furisdead.com/?referer=');">fur</a>. Thanks to designers like <a title="Jaanj Ties" href="http://www.jaanj.com/" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.jaanj.com/?referer=');">Jaanj</a>, we know that ties do not <em>need</em> to be made with <a title="Silk" href="http://www.peta.org/factsheet/files/FactsheetDisplay.asp?ID=121" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.peta.org/factsheet/files/FactsheetDisplay.asp?ID=121&amp;referer=');">silk</a> to be luxurious or silky. Same for knits and <a title="wool" href="http://www.savethesheep.com" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.savethesheep.com?referer=');">wool</a>, yet designers keep pumping out the same old thing - imagining that somehow this is iconoclastic.

Menswear is dying because of logistics and lazy <em>creatures</em> of habit. It is dying due to a lack of vision and a defiant unwillingness to adapt to a landbase in crisis. Designers could use ethical textile suppliers, forcing those who continue to shit on us and get paid for it to change or vanish.<a title="Philip Lim spring 09" href="http://www.theorganicpages.com/topo/commercialactivity.html?ca=fibertextiles" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.theorganicpages.com/topo/commercialactivity.html?ca=fibertextiles&amp;referer=');"><img class="alignleft" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/PLMEN/RUNWAY/00210m.jpg" alt="" width="132" height="198" /></a> <a title="Philip Lim spring 09" href="http://www.theorganicpages.com/topo/commercialactivity.html?ca=fibertextiles" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.theorganicpages.com/topo/commercialactivity.html?ca=fibertextiles&amp;referer=');">Phillip Lim's</a> grotesquely excessive snakeskin shoes, and <em>so</em>-over <a title="Keffeyah" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keffeyah" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Keffeyah?referer=');">keffeyah</a>-inspired scarf seemed useless on the runway. I'd rather see the actual living snake (it is much more beautiful) - or a tribute to Palestinean solidarity that hasn't been bastardized.<img class="alignright" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/THMEN/RUNWAY/00060m.jpg" alt="" width="101" height="152" /> <a title="Hillfiger spring 09" href="http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/complete/slideshow/THMEN?loop=0&amp;event=&amp;designer=THMEN&amp;trend=&amp;slideshowId=slideshow51293&amp;iphoto=0&amp;play=false&amp;cnt=15" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/complete/slideshow/THMEN?loop=0_amp_event=_amp_designer=THMEN_amp_trend=_amp_slideshowId=slideshow51293_amp_iphoto=0_amp_play=false_amp_cnt=15&amp;referer=');">Hillfiger's</a> bone and white suits could easily be made with organic fibers. Designers are just starting to realize that the bubble most of them have found tolerance in  - where snakes are shoes and cows are jackets and raccoon-dogs are collars - is becoming more and more difficult to cajole consumers with, whose broadening awareness begs for well-made, compassionate garments and accessories, and exposes the <a title="Absent Referent" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absent_referent#Ethics" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Absent_referent_Ethics?referer=');"><em>absent referent</em></a>.

The problem goes even deeper - in a culture of mainstream fashion 'journalists' and writers who lack the knowledge to create a critical discourse concerning textiles, labor, and functioning ecosystems - many simply fail to take into account what the clothes are actually made of, how that happened, and what the effects are.  Instead, when we do hear about fabric - the only barometer it is measured by is that of outdated and disfunctional ideas of luxury and evocation of wealth.

There are a handful of ethical designers recognized in the mainstream - <a title="Trovata spring 09" href="http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/TROVATAMEN" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/TROVATAMEN?referer=');">Trovata</a> for instance - who will be selling their garments from a vegetable powered bus. Others are <a title="John Patrick Organic" href="http://www.johnpatrickorganic.com/" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.johnpatrickorganic.com/?referer=');">Organic by John Patrick</a>, <a title="Turk &amp; Taylor" href="http://www.turkandtaylor.com" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.turkandtaylor.com?referer=');">Turk &amp; Taylor</a>, <a title="NSF Clothing" href="http://www.nsfclothing.com/" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.nsfclothing.com/?referer=');">NSF</a>, and <a title="Linda Loudermilk" href="http://www.lindaloudermilk.com/ms08/ms08_001.html" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.lindaloudermilk.com/ms08/ms08_001.html?referer=');">Linda Loudermilk</a>. They are almost always written off as 'cooky'.

<em>More to come from spring '09.</em>

<img class="alignleft" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/TROVATAMEN/RUNWAY/00150m.jpg" alt="" width="144" height="216" /><img class="alignnone" src="http://men.style.com/slideshows/mens/fashionshows/S2009MEN/TROVATAMEN/RUNWAY/00080m.jpg" alt="" width="145" height="216" />

2.<strong> Culturata Organics</strong>

<dl class="wp-caption alignnone"> <dt class="wp-caption-dt"><a href="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/picture-4.png" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/picture-4.png?referer=');"><img class="size-full wp-image-431" title="Culturata3" src="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/picture-4.png" alt="Culturata Organic Shirt" width="331" height="292" /></a></dt> </dl>What can improve upon a long family history in fine italian tailoring? Organic cotton. When in Rome... wear classic, tailored, organic shirts made by expert craftsmen. <a title="Culturata Organics" href="http://www.culturata.com/" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.culturata.com/?referer=');">Culturata Organics</a> is an emerging company with strict environmental and ethical standards.

<a href="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/picture-2.png" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/picture-2.png?referer=');"><img class="size-full wp-image-430 alignleft" title="Culturata2" src="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/picture-2.png" alt="" width="205" height="175" /></a>

<a href="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/picture-3.png" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/picture-3.png?referer=');"><img class="size-full wp-image-429 alignleft" title="Culturata1" src="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2008/09/picture-3.png" alt="" width="190" height="175" /></a>

<img class="intercept" src="http://www.barbour.com/images/dot.gif" alt="Wax Flyer Jacket" />

<img src="///Users/Joshua/Library/Caches/TemporaryItems/moz-screenshot.jpg" alt="" />]]></content:encoded>
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