Christopher Raeburn: Reclaimed Infantry

Christopher Raeburn‘s AW09 menswear collection caused a stir at Paris Mens Fashion Week. Only one year old, his line of “ethically-aware garments” created from recycled European military stock is almost entirely made of parachute material. Utilitarian, intelligently structured, and light-weight – these clothes are made for the active man.

AW09:

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Paris Menswear Fashion Week:

SS09:

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In the past, Raeburn has used some fur in his womenswear collections. There does not appear to be any in his 2009 collections, and we hope he sticks to that trend. If one is going to claim to be “ethically-aware” on their website, yet use the skins, furs, feathers or other body-parts of animals, the integrity of these ethics simply must be questioned.

While the recycled textiles used are eco, some of the Paris Menswear Fashion Week runway collection that Raeburn collaborated on with established British designer Tim Soar were quilted jackets stuffed with duck feathers. It is not stated whether the feathers are also recycled. Are there alternatives to feather down? Of course! Thinsulate, Primaloft, Polarguard, Thermolite, Dryloft, Hollofil, Liteloft, Microloft, Quallofil, and Thermoloft are all hypoallergenic, warm, cruelty-free alternatives.

* UPDATE: after talking directly to Christopher Raeburn, he has confirmed that the feathers are indeed from recycled duvets.

Most feather down is collected after slaughter, providing additional income to the Foie Gras and meat industry. Live Plucking still continues in some cases.  Imagine having your fingernails torn off, because that is what feather-plucking feels like to a duck, goose, or chicken. Even the celebrated “sustainable”, “found” down is most commonly taken from nests, leaving eggs exposed to the elements, and often unable to hatch. Protected Eider ducks are the most common victims of this nest raiding. More on down/feathers.

Fresh Friday Finds

Better World Shopping Guide1. The Better World Shopping Guide.
Wouldn’t it be great to have a resource that graded (A+ through F) companies on their practices affecting ecosystems, people, and animals? My sister recently pointed out a great resource: “The Better World Shopping Guide” by Ellis Jones. Dr Jones has 2 books out. The Better World Handbook is a big book that catalogues the many ways one human being can make a difference in the world around a wide range of social and environmental problems. You can read nearly the whole book RIGHT HERE.

2. Pureology Styling Products
PureologyPureology is a biodegradable, vegan, cruelty-free haircare product line used by top salons and stylists. I got my hair cut at Beehive in Williamsburg, and my stylist Kay made me fall in love with their nano-wax! Smells really good too. Pompadour heaven.

3. Reclaimed, recycled, repurposed furniture from Brooklyn!

Reclaimed Pine BenchReclaimed Table

Founded in 2004, by Bill Hilgendorf and Jason Horvath, Uhuru is a small design + build furniture company dedicated to sustainability and creating timeless designs and interiors. Uhuru builds each piece by hand, in their Red Hook Brooklyn studio.

4. Soy Undies
Soy UndiesSpotted these 2(x)ist man-briefs made from SOY! According to the 2(x)ist website, soy is “more luxurious than cashmere, breathes like cotton… and is a ‘green’ fiber”. Locate them HERE.

5. Bergmans Organic Pima Cotton Collection
Bergman's I’ve had a lot of people ask me where they can get nice organic dress shirts, khakis and such. Check out this organic collection from the respected Bergman’s, who’s been on top of the organic cotton game since 1986! If you don’t know why conventional cotton is so terrible, you much read my previous post: White Gold

Organic Cuffed Khaki
Organic OxfordOrganic Polo