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	<title>The Discerning Brute: fashion, food &#38; etiquette for the ethically handsome man &#187; reclaimed</title>
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	<description>fashion, food &#38; etiquette for the ethically handsome man</description>
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		<title>Christopher Raeburn: Reclaimed Infantry</title>
		<link>http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2009/05/14/christopher-raeburn-reclaimed-infantry/</link>
		<comments>http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2009/05/14/christopher-raeburn-reclaimed-infantry/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 14 May 2009 12:00:35 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>TheDiscerningBrute</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[animal rights]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fashion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[green]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[news]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[trend report]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegetarian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Christopher Raeburn]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eco]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[environmental]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[feather down]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[greem]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[london fashion week]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[menswear]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[military]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[parachute]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[paris fashion week]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[parka]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[reclaimed]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recycled]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sustainable]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[synthetic down]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thediscerningbrute.com/?p=1491</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<span class="image-rss"><a href="http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2009/05/14/christopher-raeburn-reclaimed-infantry/"><img title="Christopher Raeburn: Reclaimed Infantry" src="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburn2.png" alt="Christopher Raeburn: Reclaimed Infantry" width="200" height="123" /></a></span><br/>Christopher Raeburn's AW09 menswear collection caused a stir at Paris Mens Fashion Week. Only one year old, his line of "ethically-aware garments" created from recycled European military stock is almost entirely made of parachute material. Utilitarian, intelligently structured, and light-weight - these clothes are made for the active man. AW09: Paris Menswear Fashion Week: SS09: [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<span class="image-rss"><a href="http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2009/05/14/christopher-raeburn-reclaimed-infantry/"><img title="Christopher Raeburn: Reclaimed Infantry" src="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburn2.png" alt="Christopher Raeburn: Reclaimed Infantry" width="200" height="123" /></a></span><br/><strong><a title="Christopher Raeburn" href="http://www.christopherraeburn.co.uk" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.christopherraeburn.co.uk?referer=');">Christopher Raeburn</a>'s AW09 menswear collection</strong> caused a stir at Paris Mens Fashion Week. Only one year old, his line of "ethically-aware garments" created from recycled European military stock is almost entirely made of parachute material. Utilitarian, intelligently structured, and light-weight - these clothes are made for the active man.

AW09:

<a href="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburn2.png" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburn2.png?referer=');"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1495" title="Raeburn2" src="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburn2.png" alt="Raeburn2" width="400" height="246" /></a>

<a href="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburn1.png" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburn1.png?referer=');"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1494" title="Raeburn1" src="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburn1.png" alt="Raeburn1" width="195" height="239" /></a><a href="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburn.png" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburn.png?referer=');"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1493" title="Raeburn" src="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburn.png" alt="Raeburn" width="209" height="230" /></a>

Paris Menswear Fashion Week:

<img class="collection_image_border" src="http://www.soar-london.com/__images/collections/53/16-200910121616.jpg" alt="" width="212" height="317" /><img class="collection_image_border" src="http://www.soar-london.com/__images/collections/53/06-200910121616.jpg" alt="" width="211" height="317" />

SS09:

<a href="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburne.png" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburne.png?referer=');"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1497" title="RaeburnE" src="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburne.png" alt="RaeburnE" width="450" height="331" /></a>

<a href="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburne2.png" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburne2.png?referer=');"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-1498" title="RaeburnE2" src="http://thediscerningbrute.files.wordpress.com/2009/05/raeburne2.png" alt="RaeburnE2" width="450" height="316" /></a>

In the past, Raeburn has used some <a title="Fur" href="http://www.furisdead.com" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.furisdead.com?referer=');">fur</a> in his womenswear collections. There does not appear to be any in his 2009 collections, and we hope he sticks to that trend. If one is going to claim to be "<em>ethically-aware</em>" on their website, yet use the skins, furs, feathers or other body-parts of animals, the integrity of these ethics simply must be questioned.

While the recycled textiles used are eco, some of the Paris Menswear Fashion Week runway collection that Raeburn collaborated on with established British designer <a title="Tim Soar" href="http://www.soar-london.com" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.soar-london.com?referer=');">Tim Soar</a> were quilted jackets stuffed with duck feathers. It is not stated whether the feathers are also recycled. Are there alternatives to feather down? Of course! Thinsulate, Primaloft, Polarguard, Thermolite, Dryloft, Hollofil, Liteloft, Microloft, Quallofil, and Thermoloft are all hypoallergenic, warm, cruelty-free alternatives.

<span style="color:#ff0000;">* UPDATE: after talking directly to Christopher Raeburn, he has confirmed that the feathers are indeed from recycled duvets.</span>

<img class="collection_image_border" src="http://www.soar-london.com/__images/collections/53/07-200910121616.jpg" alt="" width="211" height="313" /><img class="collection_image_border" src="http://www.soar-london.com/__images/collections/53/09-200910121616.jpg" alt="" width="210" height="312" />

Most feather down is collected after slaughter, providing additional income to the <a title="Foie Gras" href="http://www.nofoiegras.com" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.nofoiegras.com?referer=');">Foie Gras</a> and meat industry. Live Plucking still continues in some cases.  Imagine having your fingernails torn off, because that is what feather-plucking feels like to a duck, goose, or chicken. Even the celebrated "sustainable", “found” down is most commonly taken from nests, leaving eggs exposed to the elements, and often unable to hatch. Protected Eider ducks are the most common victims of this nest raiding. <a title="Down" href="http://www.peta.org/mc/factsheet_display.asp?ID=121" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.peta.org/mc/factsheet_display.asp?ID=121&amp;referer=');">More on down/feathers</a>.]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Fresh Friday Finds</title>
		<link>http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2008/03/07/fresh-friday-finds/</link>
		<comments>http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2008/03/07/fresh-friday-finds/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 07 Mar 2008 20:13:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>TheDiscerningBrute</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[activism]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[environmental justice]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fair trade]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fashion]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[furniture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[green]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[grooming]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Health]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[social responsibility]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Underwear]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vegetarian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Better world handbook]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eco]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gree]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[green furniture]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic cotton]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic khaki]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[oxford]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[polo]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pureology]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[reclaimed]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recycled]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[repurposed]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soy underwear]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[uhuru]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thediscerningbrute.wordpress.com/?p=86</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<span class="image-rss"><a href="http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2008/03/07/fresh-friday-finds/"><img title="Fresh Friday Finds" src="http://www.betterworldhandbook.com/2nd/images/cover.jpg" alt="Fresh Friday Finds" width="133" height="200" /></a></span><br/>1. The Better World Shopping Guide. Wouldn't it be great to have a resource that graded (A+ through F) companies on their practices affecting ecosystems, people, and animals? My sister recently pointed out a great resource: "The Better World Shopping Guide" by Ellis Jones. Dr Jones has 2 books out. The Better World Handbook is [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<span class="image-rss"><a href="http://www.thediscerningbrute.com/2008/03/07/fresh-friday-finds/"><img title="Fresh Friday Finds" src="http://www.betterworldhandbook.com/2nd/images/cover.jpg" alt="Fresh Friday Finds" width="133" height="200" /></a></span><br/><a href="http://www.betterworldhandbook.com" title="Better World Shopping Guide" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.betterworldhandbook.com?referer=');"><img src="http://www.betterworldhandbook.com/2nd/images/cover.jpg" alt="Better World Shopping Guide" align="right" height="210" width="143" /></a><b>1. The Better World Shopping Guide.</b>
Wouldn't it be great to have a resource that graded (<i>A+ through F</i>) companies on their practices affecting ecosystems, people, and animals? My sister recently pointed out a great resource: <a href="http://www.betterworldhandbook.com" title="Official Website" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.betterworldhandbook.com?referer=');"><i>"The Better World Shopping Guide"</i> </a>by Ellis Jones. Dr Jones has 2 books out.  <a href="http://www.betterworldhandbook.com" title="Better World Handbook" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.betterworldhandbook.com?referer=');">The Better World Handbook</a> is a big book that catalogues the many ways one human being can make a difference in the world around a wide range of social and environmental problems. You can read nearly the whole book <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=7vD55mKAVmoC&amp;printsec=frontcover&amp;vq=%22The+Better+World+Shopping+Guide%22+by+Ellis+Jones.&amp;source=gbs_summary_s&amp;cad=0#PPA248,M1" title="Better World Shopping Guide" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/books.google.com/books?id=7vD55mKAVmoC_amp_printsec=frontcover_amp_vq=_22The+Better+World+Shopping+Guide_22+by+Ellis+Jones._amp_source=gbs_summary_s_amp_cad=0_PPA248_M1&amp;referer=');">RIGHT HERE.</a>

<b>2. Pureology Styling Products</b>
<a href="http://www.pureology.com/" title="Pureology" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.pureology.com/?referer=');"><img src="http://www.hairproductstogo.com/images/pureology/NanoWorks2.JPG" alt="Pureology" align="left" height="93" width="79" />Pureology</a> is a biodegradable, vegan, cruelty-free haircare product line used by top salons and stylists. I got my hair cut at <a href="http://www.thebeehivesalon.com/" title="Beehinve" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.thebeehivesalon.com/?referer=');">Beehive</a> in Williamsburg, and my stylist Kay made me fall in love with their nano-wax! Smells really good too. Pompadour heaven.

<b>3. Reclaimed, recycled, repurposed furniture from Brooklyn!</b>
<div style="text-align:center;"><img src="http://uhurudesign.com/work_img/119.jpg" alt="Reclaimed Pine Bench" height="186" width="186" /><img src="http://uhurudesign.com/work_img/118.jpg" alt="Reclaimed Table" height="188" width="188" /></div>
Founded in 2004, by Bill Hilgendorf and Jason Horvath, <a href="http://uhurudesign.com" title="Uhuru" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/uhurudesign.com?referer=');">Uhuru</a> is a small design + build furniture company dedicated to sustainability and creating timeless designs and interiors. Uhuru builds each piece by hand, in their Red Hook Brooklyn studio.<b></b>

<b>4.</b> <b>Soy Undies</b>
<a href="http://www.2xist.com/products.asp?department=9700" title="Soy Undies" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.2xist.com/products.asp?department=9700&amp;referer=');"><img src="http://media.washingtonpost.com/wp-srv/specials/sprig/img/products/2XIST_soynoshowbrief.jpg" alt="Soy Undies" align="right" height="116" width="116" /></a>Spotted these 2(x)ist man-briefs made from SOY! According to the 2(x)ist website, soy is <i>"more luxurious than cashmere, breathes like cotton... and is a 'green' fiber". </i>Locate them <a href="http://www.2xist.com/storelocator.asp" title="Locations" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.2xist.com/storelocator.asp?referer=');">HERE</a>.

<b>5. Bergmans Organic Pima Cotton Collection</b>
<img src="http://www.bergmanstore.com/images/bergmanstore/logo-top.jpg" alt="Bergman's" align="left" height="98" width="159" /> I've had a lot of people ask me where they can get nice organic dress shirts, khakis and such. Check out this organic collection from the respected <a href="http://www.bergmanstore.com/" title="Bergman's" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/www.bergmanstore.com/?referer=');">Bergman's</a>, who's been on top of the organic cotton game since 1986! If you don't know why conventional cotton is so terrible, you much read my previous post: <a href="http://thediscerningbrute.wordpress.com/2008/02/02/soft-spot-white-gold-partybots/" title="White Gold" target="_blank" onclick="pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/thediscerningbrute.wordpress.com/2008/02/02/soft-spot-white-gold-partybots/?referer=');">White Gold</a>

<img src="http://www.bergmanstore.com/data/product/images/5200755113370904286_LARGE.jpg" alt="Organic Cuffed Khaki" height="328" width="328" />
<img src="http://www.bergmanstore.com/data/product/images/92007551134434232339_LARGE.jpg" alt="Organic Oxford" height="163" width="163" /><img src="http://www.bergmanstore.com/data/product/images/10200755112464585796_LARGE.jpg" alt="Organic Polo" height="163" width="163" />]]></content:encoded>
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