Constructing the Suit: No-Bull Buttons

I’ve been in the development process for the exclusive Discerning Brute Suit Line (which will be available on BraveGentleMan.com soon!) and there are so many elements to making a good suit, and may of them are not at all animal-friendly. From bull-horn and buffalo buttons to wool fabric, from horse or goat or camel-hair interfacing and wool felt under-collar fabric, to silk thread, making a cruelty-free suit is no easy task. Many menswear factories are set up to provide stock-interfacing and thread  – and bringing in your own alternatives sometimes poses problems.

Things like buttons and interfacing are definitely more subtle elements of ethical fashion, but they are valid nonetheless.

What visually and texturally distinguishes horn buttons from alternatives like tagua nut, wood, plastic, or coconut? The buttons in the image below are typical horn buttons, carved from the horns of animals like buffalo or bull. Definitely not cruelty-free, and definitely not sustainable considering the ecological impact of livestock production.

Horn buttons come in light brown, dark brown, black, amber, and ivory. They usually have an organic texture (run your fingernail along the rim and it should have a tiny ridges, like a worn-down quarter, and often they appear to be marbleized. Upon close inspection, they have depth in the lighter areas, which are slightly translucent. Horn buttons are also typically semi-matte – unlike plastic buttons which are smooth and uniformly shiny, though many mimic the marble patter and colors.

Tagua Nut Buttons are a gorgeous, organic alternative to animal horn and plastic. They are also called Corozo, mococha and vegetable ivory. Tagua has been used in since 1750 for toys, beads, and buttons. The Tagua nut comes in various colors, shades, and patterns, and are considered the “ivory of wood”. Companies like Howies and Vaute Couture, who I’ve talked about on The Discerning Brute before, are now using Tagua Nut. The Tagua nut, it comes from a palm tree called Phytelephas Macrocarpa (a palm from South America). The nuts are gathered and dried out for 4-8 weeks, sorted and sliced. Their scientific name means “plant elephant” and the very hard white endosperm of their seeds (tagua nuts) resembles elephant ivory, does not break, and maintains the same properties as man-made buttons along with the texture and color patterning similar to horn.

SALE --Storewide Big Button Clearance--10 Nut Ivory/Tagua Nut Carved Buttons--13/16 of an inch or 2 cm--5 chocolate brown, 5 camelhowie_nut_buttons.jpg

The Tagua Nut is sustainably harvested, often fairly traded, and does not require the cutting-down of trees (since it comes from the tree’s nut). It also has such similar properties to Ivory that it has helped curb the poaching of elephants. What’s not to like? Definitely look for Tagua Nut Buttons on my upcoming suit line!

Vaute Couture Men’s Coats PreOrder Sale

Vaute Couture is offering an amazing deal – and you could score a warm, classic mens’ coat (100% vegan, eco, and ethical) just in time for the cold season at almost half-off if you act soon. The preorder special will start at 45% off for 1 week only, and move towards regular price every week until we’re ready to get them to ship! Click the image below for full details (featuring Yours Truly and vegan model Jayce Basques in the warm, rugged Vaute Couture Pea Coat).

VEGANIK: VAUTE COUTURE & THE CITY


by Nik Tyler

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I recently visited my hometown, NYC, to attend a special presentation of Bold Native , a rad feature film I’m in about the Animal Liberation Front & The Animal Enterprise Terrorism Act. The screening was hosted by the incomparable Russell Simmons, who gave a very eloquent introduction before the movie began. The sold out audience was filled with remarkable activists, actors, artists, musicians, friends and fam; it was an inspiring room of truth seekers!

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A few days prior to the premiere, I met up with my friend, Andy, at Atlas Cafe, and was introduced to the lovely eco-vegan fashion designer, Leanne Mai-ly Hilgart. Leanne is the founder of Vaute Couture , and was named 1 of 7 Best Emerging Green Designers of 2009 by Ecouterre. Her fashion line is the ultimate gear for ethical guys and gals; high-style, chic, sexy, comfortable, eco, “upcycled” and drumroll, please…. 100% cruelty-free, with no animal derived materials!

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When I visited the Vaute Couture website and perused Leanne’s apparel, I remembered seeing one of her message tees rocked on the red carpet by Twilight actor, BooBoo Stewart.
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“Woa! That’s one helluva’ awesome tee!” I thought at the time, but I didn’t know who had created it or where I could score one for myself. Apparently I had my head under a rock, cause Leanne’s styles had already been praised by a ton of celebs and sites, including Alicia Silverstone , Oprah.com and right here on the Discerning Brute!
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When I arrived at the screening of Bold Native I was met by Leanne in the lobby of the theater; you can imagine my joy when she gifted me with that exact message tee, which I proudly sported in this pic with Moby.
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So to all you stylish and compassionate gents, I highly recommend you check out the VC site immediately. It’s full of unique, trend-setting and thoughtful designs (coats, tees, jewelry, even art!) for men and women that are sure to make you stand out in a crowd (while taking a stand). You’ll def be the cool, conscious, compassionate cat in the room, rockin’ some serious rock-steady eco-fashion that will make you a fashion icon in no time flat!  And stay tuned – Leanne is about to release the men’s line of eco-jackets that is sure to make everyone take note! Men’s fashions are up for preorders this month (preorder specials start at 40% off and go down as it gets closer to ship date).  Leanne will also be having pop-up shops by appointment to view the new pieces (and purchase current/last season stuff too) SF and NYC… tentatively scheduled for NYC first week of September.

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SAN FRANCISCO: Saturday 8/28 Noon-5pm & Sunday 8/29 1:30-6pm
Vaute Pop-up Shop- Tea & Cupcakes at A. Muse Gallery
614 Alabama Street, San Francisco
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You can make your reservation by emailing Leanne@VauteCouture.com, and find more details here.

Behind The Scenes: Vaute Couture Men’s Lookbook- AW2010

by Kris Kneale

These are some personal pictures I shot, behind the scenes from the Fall 2010 Lookbook shoot for Vaute Couture. We improvised on location as we wandered up and down the blocks around Williamsburg, Brooklyn. The inspiration was “Rebel With A Cause”, and James Dean. We were lucky to have stumbled upon an amazing motorcycle whose owner was kind enough to let us use it.

I am more than excited for this line;  and with veganized classics like leather dress gloves, and wool-free peacoats who wouldn’t be? This line will be available for Autumn/Winter 2010, and as soon as the official images are released, I’ll let you know.

It was amazing to have an entirely vegan cast and crew! Photographer Anthony Two Moons, Designer Leanne Mai-Ly Hilgart, model Jayce Alexander Basques, model Joshua Katcher (of The DB), and myself, Kris Kneale.

IMG_0272.jpg picture by knealey24

IMG_0262.jpg picture by knealey24

IMG_0269.jpg picture by knealey24

Lionhearts & Battle Cries: 20 Lines for 2010

by Joshua Katcher
featured on HintMag.com

Tevas with socks. Cargo Pants. Slogan tees. Let’s face it, people who care about ecosystems, animals, and worker’s rights aren’t typically celebrated for their sartorial poise. Likewise, most designers who care about form, function, and aesthetics aren’t typically known for their environmental wisdom or empathy; Fur coats, leather everything, toxic cotton, sweatshops.

There is new breed of designer, though, not so easily written off, who can turn old televisions into jaw-dropping shoes, who foster relationships with organic cotton farmers in developing countries, who invest in research and development of warm, biodegradable, recycled, cruelty-free textiles, whose aesthetic vision is not hampered by the challenges of navigating ethical dilemmas, and who – armed with tencel, lenpur, hemp, recycled fabrics, faux-fur, soda-bottle ultrasuede, and organics – aren’t afraid of challenging the tragic credo set by heritage brands.  In a culture where the iconography of the rebel is tied up in so many embarrassingly common and mainstream social, environmental and ethical muddles, these true iconoclasts are redefining cool, and reinvigorating the lost meaning of dressing like a dissident.

1. Vaute Couture. Leanne Mai-Ly Hilgart is the prefect example of a designer who dreamed big. Her line went from a fantasy (gorgeous, eco, vegan winter coats that can handle Chicago in February) to reality. The line looks as amazing as it is warm and ethical; 100% Cruelty-free, sustainable, and fair-labor. Vaute Couture took over 8 months of fabric research and development and launched just last year, but has already garnered a host of celeb fanatics from Emily Deschanel, to Alicia Silverstone, and Ginnifer Goodwin. The men’s line launches August 2010. vautecouture.com

Read more…

New Matt & Nat, Israel to Ban Fur, Pussies Eat Meat & Sparrow Media

Matt & Nat has unleashed it’s new website, along with a pretty rad spring/summer collection of vegan bags lined with 21 recycled bottled turned into faux-suede. If you’re in the NYC area, you can grab the men’s bags at Alter.

Phoenix Briefcase, Black $239.00, Kronos Bag, Black $175.00, Fujiya Bag, Black $170.00, at ALTER

Meat Is For Pussies book image

I am stoked about my tough-guy pal John Joseph‘s (Cro-Mags front man, Ironman Triathlete, all-around vegan badass) new book that does not beat around the bush (ha…) about meat and its affect on the earth, our health, and animals. Yes, the title is controversial. Feel free to rant about it in the comments section. Or just pre-order your copy.

John Joseph

Meat is For Pussies: The how-to guide for dudes who want to get fit, kick ass, and take names (Crush Publishing, 2010).

“In Meat is for Pussies, John Joseph makes sure you never look at meat the same way. After painting a sickening picture of how things really are, John outlines a plan for a happier, healthier, and more fulfilling life. Do you want to continue living like a pussy, or are you ready to take back control of your life? It’s your call.”

Sparrow Media recently did an exclusive, in-depth interview with Leanne Mai-Ly Hilgart (Vaute Couture). Sparrow Media’s work is pretty amazing in general, so we recommend checking it, and all their stuff out! Big-ups to Discerning Brute Andy Stepanian for spearheading so many cool and important projects.


Skin Trade MovieThe new film “Skin Trade”, by Shannon Keith (Behind the Mask) has been released and is shocking audiences  across the country. Gary Smith writes an excellent review of the documentary over at Elephant Journal. The film features Rory Freedman, John Feldmann, Todd Oldham, Alexandra Paul, James Cromwell, Jorja Fox, Peter Young, Joshua Katcher, Matt Rossell, Ingrid Newkirk and Dennis Kucinich.

“Skin Trade” covers the fur industry like no other film has ever done – from the history of the fur trade to consumer fraud to the environmental toll of tanneries to truth-in-labeling legislation… systematically debunks the most common myths around fur, such as warmth, fashion, and the Canadian Fur Council’s laughable “Fur is Green” campaign.

http://www.animalliberationfront.com/ALFront/Actions-Israel/IsraelFur021306.jpgSpeaking of fur… will Israel be the first country to ban fur, all together? Michal Lewin-Epstein’s article on Huffington Post:

“Ninety-five percent of Israel’s textile products are imported from China and real furred items are occasionally mislabeled as fake fur, deceiving both the retailers and the consumers. A survey, commissioned by the International Anti-Fur Coalition and Let the Animals Live, conducted immediately after the February 2009 media investigation, showed that 86% of Israelis believe killing animals for fur is immoral. Moreover, nearly 80% back a bill calling for ban of fur trade in Israel. This media exposure and public support, together with the long-standing joint efforts of the International Anti-Fur Coalition and the Israeli organization Let the Animals Live, recently pressured Israeli Members of Knesset to endorse a law that would limit or eliminate the fur trade in Israel.” Read the FULL ARTICLE.

We’re on Oprah! We Eat Donuts! We Rescue Dogs!

Yes sirs and madams, your favorite blog, The D-Bizzle got a major shout out on Oprah.com! Vaute Couture’s Leanne Mai-Ly Hilgart, this month’s gorgeous VegNews cover-girl was recently interviewed on Oprah.com. In that interview, she shouted out The DB, and then featured images from the upcoming menswear lookbook. Yours Truly and the heart-throb vegan model, Jayce Alexander Basques are hanging out in Brooklyn in this image at a thrift store. I am riding a tricycle (my main form of transportation) and Jayce is clearly impressed by my ride. Although we are not really “feminine and flirty” as the title on Oprah.com suggests, the rest of the images featuring Vaute’s amazing winter coats for women, certainly are.

Check out my original article on the Vaute Menswear from fashion week, and our video interview with Leanne!

Men's coats from Vaute Couture

Jayce and I had some time to catch up in San Francisco this past week, and we made a very healthy breakfast of a stack of vegan donuts and soy-lattes from Ritual Coffee Roasters on Valencia. There was cinnamon-sugar, maple, blueberry, and coconut. Oy vey!

In addition to stuffing my face, I finally got to meet my sister Joelle’s rescued pooch, Lina! She is a clever, pretty and loving little gal! It took her about 25 minutes to warm up to me, but by the end of the week I was getting kisses on the face. She was found wandering the streets, pregnant and terrified, but is quickly turning into a trusting friend despite her scary past. If you have room in your house and heart, or are thinking of getting a companion animal, please adopt and rescue. It will be an amazing and uplifting experience for you and your new friend.

Fashion Harm Reduction, & Turk + Taylor AW 2010

After writing so critically yesterday about the heritage luxury brands (Gucci, et al) finally hearing the death-rattle and attempting to figure out how to become sustainable (or at least greenwash their marketing enough to convince people that leather and cashmere could be sustainable), it’s important to point out clothing lines that are using organic cotton, fair labor, and moving towards having a substantial vegan product base. Lines like Vaute Couture, Matt & Nat that are entirely vegan and utilize organic and recycled textiles and ensure fair labor are taking their rightful place in the limelight.

It’s easy for some activists and critics to brush off the entire fashion industry (including the sustainable and vegan brands) as “frivolous” or have a “down with it all” attitude and concentrate on what they see as more pressing issues – but the fashion industry impacts the environment, people, and animals in such huge ways that it deserves much more detailed attention. For example, conventional cotton is responsible for 25% of all insecticide use worldwide, and leather and wool products are an incredibly profitable aspect of the hugest cause of global warming (livestock production).  It’s a classic harm-reduction vs abstinence scenario. Clean needles or denial that people are doing drugs? Condoms or denial that teens have sex is happening. Sustainable fashion, or denial that people are buying into these images and ideas?

That being said, we are so excited to see that Turk + Taylor has many vegan items in the new winter collection (which is something that is always hard to come by). Typically, when we think of winter clothing, it is almost invariably wool or other animal products. Below are some images from the new menswear look-book, and our favorite vegan model, Jayce, is featured in them.

Featuring western-style “Panhandle” organic cotton button-downs, “Glen Canyon Grandad” pea coat-style, french-terry, shawl-neck sweaters with organic cotton fleece, and military-inspired “Washington Square” jackets in waxed organic cotton and upcycled sailcloth – the vegan highlights from this and other growing collections and brands are something that the old-school luxury brands who, like the polar bears, are on thin ice, need to carefully learn from and look up to.

Green Fashion Week, Melting Hearts & You are Cool

Green Fashion Week has been unleashed! The Green Shows is only weeks away, and we suggest you fashionistos in press and retail get on top of getting into this hot, exclusive 4-day event, because this ticket will fill up in no-time and is sure to contain the hottest, most ethically sexy peeps and clothes you could dream of. The GreenShows Eco Fashion Week is in its second bi-annual runway shows and will take place on February 14–17 at 311 E11: Village Green (311 East 11th Streethttp://www.corcoransunshine.com/property/nd/photo/454_E.JPG between 1st and 2nd Avenues). This time there will be two designers featuring menswear: Thieves by Sonja den Elzen (Toronto) and Vaute Couture (Chicago). Women’s Wear designers include: Samantha Pleet (New York), Gary Harvey, (London), House Of Organic/Ekovaruhuset (Stockholm/New York), Willian (New York), deux fm (Nova Scotia), JoAnn Berman (New York), Popomomo (Los Angeles), and C. Marchuska (New York). 311 E11: Village Green–a premier boutique collection of condominium residences targeted to be the first LEED-Gold certified building in the East Village is hosting ht events and opening and closing receptions. For information about the designers and complete schedule, visit www.thegreenshows.com.

‘Our Farm’ will make you a better man. If you need to melt someone’s heart for Vday, we suggest doing it the old-fashioned way. What lover wouldn’t go crazy for a tender-hearted man that reads poetry to them?  Pre-Order now and be the first to get yours hot off the press. Featuring poems by Maya Gottfried and watercolor by Robert Rahway Zakanitch. $17.99, a portion of the proceeds benefit Farm Sanctuary.

*PRE-ORDER: Our Farm: By the Animals of Farm Sanctuary

Forgive the self-indulgence, but we are so honored that the UK’s Guardian, Observer Magazine named ‘The Discerning Brute’ one of 2010′s new, cool trends! So you must be cool if you read this blog! Pat yourself on the back.
New Year, New Cool
“THE NEW SEXY VEGAN: JOSHUA KATCHER”

The Observer

SNEAK PEEK: Vaute Couture Menswear

Something I hear time and time again is that you guys have a lot of trouble finding a truly warm winter coat that does not compromise on style. That’s why I am leaking some very top-secret images from the unreleased menswear collection from the exalted Vaute Couture! I had the honor of being the fit model for some of these incredible coats. Not unlike the women’s collection (favored by vegan celebs from Ginnifer Goodwin to Emily Deschanel), these wool-free coats are being developed for functionality, warmth, comfort and sustainability in cruelty-free, recycled and recyclable fabrics with features like vintage, deadstock or Tagua Nut buttons. But the best part of all? The designs are meticulous, fitted, and classically handsome.  I wish I could share more, but as you can see below, there’s still pins in the sample! So fear not, prayers do get answered.

Also, you’ll probably want to have these clever, organic tees from Vaute Couture, only 26$.