UMASAN Spring Summer 2015

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UMASAN‘s presented their SS15 Collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin, offering up an “Urban Homage To The Freedom of The Nomadic, Bohemian Spirit”.

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An abandoned ice-rink with a live performance of Dante Alighieri’s work was the dramatic setting for the 4th successive season of the Award Winning high fashion, vegan brand UMASAN for their SS15 show, where the blending of genders was not so much a political statement as an embracing of a unisex future.
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The collection is an ode to the wandering traveller, a nomadic bohemian spirit intrinsic to the UMASAN DNA. However this journey was a spiritual one, a journey of self, almost dream like rather than a physical experience. Possibly a reference to Henry Miller, “one’s destination is never a place, but a way of seeing things.”
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The menswear collection is heavily influenced by luxe urban sportswear, with soft tailoring in the label’s staple fabrics of Tencel, SeaCell and cotton which offer free-flowing silhouettes that were styled with removable hood accessories and practical carryalls. A momentary slip, saw UMASAN’s strict palette of black and white confronted with a well-traveled, asymmetrical cut anorak in a rusted brown. The classic white shirt was injected with the quirky UMASAN touch, with off-centered buttons, while hooded sweat-shirts revealed edgy zip detailing at the back and t-shirts had lived-in slashed pockets.
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UMASAN, is the conceptual, vegan fashion brainchild of twin sisters, Anja and Sandra Umann, that has been on a roller coater of recognition since it’s launch in 2010. Widely known for their muted and austere, yet versatile and highly sophisticated ready-to-wear pieces they draw inspiration from the self and health style generation, yoga, art and literature. Sandra, a photographer, and Anja, ex designer for Yohji Yamamoto, combine their creative interests for a line that specialises in innovative materials, such as SeaCell and Tencel, together with interesting shapes to offer a fashion forward monochromatic aesthetic. There’s always something admirable when a label takes a forthright defiance and indifference to current fashion trends and this attitude and agenda is embodied in each of the predominantly masculine silhouettes boasting pristine German tailoring. It’s fun, unique and “the best black gear out there.”

 

 

Haikure, Ghosts, Superheroes & Phoney Baloney

Haikure is an Italian denim line with simple, classic style. Haikure also utilizes hemp, organic cotton, recycled poly, lyocell, tencel, linen and low-impact, plant-based dyes and aging processes. PLus, they have a really innovative tracking and transparency system in place that lets the buyer know the life-cycle and impacts of the purchase.

THE GHOSTS IN OUR MACHINE is a journey of discovery into what is a complex social dilemma. In essence, humans have cleverly categorized non-human animals into three parts: domesticated pets, wildlife, and the ones we don’t like to think about: the ghosts in our machine.”

Liberator_issue1cover-TimSeeleyMoCCAfest exclusive.  Cover art by Javier Sanchez Aranda, colors by Kathryn Mann

I grew up reading comic books which is why I’m so excited about LIBERATOR, a new series from Black Mask Studios where gritty antiheroes put the target on animal abusers and dog fighters. The comic book is a collaboration between Matt Miner & Vito Delsante. Go to the signing for Liberator #1! Visit any of the following links to pre-order online:

CLICK HERE to find your closest comic book store.
Pre-Order from Discount Comic Book Service (USA, ships internationally)
Pre-Order from Midtown Comics (USA, ships internationally)
Pre-Order from Things From Another World (USA, ships internationally)
Pre-Order from Forbidden Planet International

When I finally got to try Phoney Baloney’s coconut bacon, I went through half the bag by itself in the first 15 minutes! Needless to say, the smokey, savory, crispy flakes go great with everything from salads to cupcakes – but don’t forget to make a classic BLT. Check out Isa’s recipe for butterscotch cupcakes with coconut bacon, and Phoney Baloney’s own recipe for a BLTA

VAUTE AW13/14

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Vaute by Leanne Mai-ly Hilgart had their RTW launch for New York Fashion week at Eyebeam yesterday, and it was stunning. There was a huge turnout of writers, editors and buyers, fans and friends and the show featured organic, sustainable, vegan clothing and outerwear for both men and women. I was honored to be invited to showcase the Brave GentleMan x Novacas shoe and boot collection on the male models, while Monisha Raja’s Love Is Mighty collection sparkled on the ladies. The atmosphere was high-drama with contrast spotlighting in the huge space that swelled with epic music. And if all the amazing fashion wasn’t enough, there were mouth-watering sweets from Vegan Treats circulating on platters and appearing in gift bags (see below for the images and don’t lick the screen).
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Vaute’s ethos is very aligned with The Discerning Brute and Brave GentleMan and it’s exciting to see such a major response to something that is otherwise unheard-of within the mainstream fashion industry. In fact, this show was making history as he first totally vegan conceived brand to show at New York Fashion Week. Even the hair by Salon Champu and makeup by DeVita were cruelty-free and vegan, as were several of the models. Adoptable dogs looking for forever homes from The Humane Society of New York and Badass Brooklyn Rescue hung out with some of the models.

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Joshua Katcher backstage with some of the models.

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John Bartlett Spring 2013

John Bartlett Spring 2013John Bartlett Spring 2013
Images: GQ.com

I attended the Spring 2013 John Bartlett runway show at New York Fashion week and considered running back-stage to steal a linen suit for myself.  As Bartlett describes, this collection is inspired by “the plant-based man” which reflects his own commitment to animals, veganism and sustainability. The entire collection is free of animal products typically used in menswear like leather, wool or silk, but seems to lack nothing. The tailored suits, rope belts, pleated pants, matching shirts and ties (a John Bartlett staple) and a soft palette of watermelon, avocado, and other flora all added up for a powerful collection perfect for sophisticated, cool and cognizant men.

Linen (otherwise known as flax) is the perfect spring and summer fabric because it’s light, it breathes, and you can wear a full suit without sweating to death. What’s even better is that linen is incredibly sustainable and, when compared to fibers like wool or cotton, it takes far less resources to grow and process.

I await this collection hitting stores as eagerly as I await seeing what he has planned for the Autumn/Winter 2013 collection.
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Images: GQ.com



 

The Realm of UMASAN

UMASAN is a conceptual, vegan, high-end fashion label from Berlin that uses haunting imagery, functional and elegant design, sustainable textiles, and has an affinity for the realm of anatomy and kinesiology. Most of their garments are made with “protein fiber”, which is an eco-friendly fiber made from tofu manufacturing waste with a hand feel similar to silk or cashmere. You can shop their entire mens store here, and I am doing my best to get it at BraveGenlteMan.com! 

Follow them on Facebook & Twitter.

It is our PROMISE not to use any animal products, concentrate on humane/ecological production solutions and choose our fabrics through the eyes of sustainability and earth consciousness…UMASAN is creating calmness within the madness of the fashion world and it’s ever evolving market insecurities. No color explosions, fabric overload or unnecessary trend back and forth! Umasan is looking for balance and timelessness opposing industry standards. SLOWING DOWN!

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* thanks to Patrick for the tip!