The Realm of UMASAN

UMASAN is a conceptual, vegan, high-end fashion label from Berlin that uses haunting imagery, functional and elegant design, sustainable textiles, and has an affinity for the realm of anatomy and kinesiology. Most of their garments are made with “protein fiber”, which is an eco-friendly fiber made from tofu manufacturing waste with a hand feel similar to silk or cashmere. You can shop their entire mens store here, and I am doing my best to get it at BraveGenlteMan.com! 

Follow them on Facebook & Twitter.

It is our PROMISE not to use any animal products, concentrate on humane/ecological production solutions and choose our fabrics through the eyes of sustainability and earth consciousness…UMASAN is creating calmness within the madness of the fashion world and it’s ever evolving market insecurities. No color explosions, fabric overload or unnecessary trend back and forth! Umasan is looking for balance and timelessness opposing industry standards. SLOWING DOWN!

UMASAN_men_2010_lookbook18.jpgUMASAN_Lookbook_ss2012_03.jpgUMASAN_men_2010_lookbook19.jpgUMASAN_Lookbook_ss2012_11.jpgUMASAN_men_2010_lookbook13.jpgUMASAN_Lookbook_ss2012_21.jpg

* thanks to Patrick for the tip!

Fall Baggage, Style Over Substance & NYC Public Bikes

• These men’s bags from Matt & Nat have the perfect combination of rugged utility and handsome luxury. Whether you’re going back to school, starting a new job, or going on a trip – these four are certain to get your sack noticed. Made with recycled soda-bottle PET ultrasuede lining.

 

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xB20kvhTRig/TnNbsCszhzI/AAAAAAAAAfg/4saiabE1_OM/s640/luxury-fashion-cover+lg.jpg• Luxury Brands are being taken to task in a recent article in the Guardian by Ethical Consumer’s Simon Birch. The article references a new report, ‘Style over Substance’ that uses an interactive score table and rating system, which rates brands on a spectrum of 23 criteria making up 5 main areas of focus: Environment, Animals, People, Politics, and Product Sustainability. The luxury brands are failing overwhelmingly:

Many of the world’s biggest and most elite fashion houses pay virtually no regard to corporate ethics and have yet to take even the first steps on reporting on the social and environmental impact of their operations… Even fashion’s favourite ethical champion Stella McCartney came next to the bottom of our ethical rating table. Full marks for McCartney for championing animal rights but the bad news is that Gucci, the company that owns the brand, sanctions the use of fur in many of its other fashion brands. Gucci has neither an environmental nor supply chain policy in place.

Paul Smith (who scored higher than most on the above report)’s organic denim shirt is tailored and features a small rounded “club” collar.

http://static.paulsmith.co.uk/images/width918/jecj-081l-532-md-detailg-73567.jpghttp://static.paulsmith.co.uk/images/width408/jecj-081l-532-md-73560.jpg

Inhabitat reported that New York City will finally be offering bike share stations with over 10,0000 bikes!

http://inhabitat.com/nyc/wp-content/blogs.dir/2/files/2011/09/alta-boston-bike-share.jpg

The city has finally selected Alta Bike Share of Portland, Oregon to install and manage our long-awaited public bike share program. The bike share will have a whopping 600 stations, spreading from Crown Heights in Brooklyn to Manhattan’s Upper West side, and have 10,000 bikes available for use. We could see the bike share as soon as next summer, but the best part is that membership will be flexible, and an annual subscription will likely cost less than a monthly MetroCard.

Read more: NYC Bike Share Will Have 600 Stations & 10,000 Bikes! Alta Bike Share Program – Inhabitat New York City

Fresh Friday Finds

1. CROW Clothing
New Menswear from CROW Clothing is made from organic cotton, bamboo, and soy. But that’s not the best thing – they have a sliding scale for prices, so you pay what you can afford!

2. The numbers are in!
Forest Ethics released a report this week citing that “emissions generated by junk mail is equivalent to the emissions of more than 9 million cars, or if you prefer, 2.5 million cars idling 24 hours a day for 7 days a week.”

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2. Howies Organic Denim
This Howies organic cotton jacket is perfect for fall. And their organic skinny jeans with natural indigo are half off!
NedsterBackyard Jeans

3. Monkey Thanker
Friend of DB, Karen Dawn (author: Thanking the Monkey) was recently featured in a news segment connecting going green with compassion for farm animals. Check out the video here.

http://static.flickr.com/62/173510624_cc188396ec.jpg

4. HSUS Back to School Fur Free guide:

http://hsus.typepad.com/photos/uncategorized/2007/05/22/281x269_dereon_raccoon_dog_.jpg

Printable guide to telling real fur from fake fur:
http://www.hsus.org/web-files/PDF/fur/field-guide-on-real-vs-fake-fur-final.pdf
Printable fur labeling case report:
http://www.hsus.org/web-files/PDF/fur/fur-labeling-case-report-final.pdf
Printable list of fur-free companies:
http://www.hsus.org/web-files/PDF/fur/fur-free-list-pocket-guide-final.pdf

5. It seems unbelievable…
http://www.avert.org/photo_library/images/normal_photo_no_247.jpg
…but the Bush Administration is quietly trying to redefine “abortion” to include birth control. The Houston Chronicle says this could wipe out dozens of state laws that protect women’s reproductive freedom and protect rape victims. This “rule change” doesn’t need congressional approval. Can you sign an emergency message to Health and Human Services Secretary Mike Leavitt, whose department is considering this rule change right now?

Faux Ever: Inder Bedi of Matt & Nat

Eight years ago, a designer with a penchant for architecture, subculture, and bold ethics launched MATT & NAT – a line of vegan accessories that is unabashedly tearing down any notion that you can’t be fashion-forward and an environmentalist. Anyone who is only one or the other might just be lazy.

Inder Bedhi (Matt & Nat)

Inder Bedhi (Matt & Nat)

Inder Bedi, the brain in which MATT & NAT both reside – and the 34 year old discerning brute whose headquarters are in Montreal, makes no apologies for his commitment to animal advocacy and environmentalism. His accessories are always totally vegan, and are increasingly made from recycled and sustainable materials.

Moz

Moz

The fact that the new fall 2008 lines are gorgeously-serious, structured, edgy, and modish is enough to make anyone do a triple-take as you walk by – but compound that with the fact that these accessories consist of treated cardboard, recycled soda bottles, and vintage faux-leather and it’s a recipe for handsome ethics.

Like Marshall McLuhan, MATT & NAT isn’t just the bag; it’s the message. Discreetly or proudly, to carry the bag is to carry the message. The Fall 08 collection takes its cues from menswear with a deep color palette, emphasis on heavy hardware, and a narrowed focus on larger all-use carryalls. Such a focused collection makes a bold statement. No other line says it quite as strongly as CARTON. With the success of spring 08’s experimentation in eco-fabrics, MATT & NAT is now exploring the world of paper. CARTON is fabricated from treated cardboard and retails for $150 – $295. Featuring vintage synthetic leather trims, bags are available in either black or natural, with the choice of mix-copper or antique silver hardware. The line is unique, powerful, and for those wanting to make a statement. There’s no question about it, CARTON is progressive, both in design & fabrication.

Andro Carton

Ando Carton

Perfect for those cold winter days, FEUTRE is a line of heather gray felt bags entirely void of animal by-products retailing for $225 – $295. A first for MATT & NAT, the felt is 100% recycled water bottles. Bags are available in a choice of two trims: coffee or cement gray Japanese paper with lead-free copper hardware and a dark tonal lining. Masculine, distinct, and bound to be a classic, FEUTRE is minimalism at its best. Another first this season, BELTS. Made from synthetic leather, the line is comprised of traditional unisex hip belts that retail for $100 – $135. What sets these belts apart are the buckles in varying metals. Industrial in look, with oversized screw accents, BELTS iterate the design elements of the collection, and reinforce MATT & NAT as an avant-garde.

Junk Feutre

Junk Feutre


I had a few moments to interview Inder, here is our conversation:

DB: What is your inspiration for the upcoming collections?
IB: Architecture, cinema and music

DB: How did Matt & Nat come to be?
IB: A desire to put out a vegan line that represents balance between the two voices in my head (matt & nat), the voices that we hear all day that inevitably lead to the decisions we make every second…matt & nat strives to balance us as people as well as the worlds of fashion and positivity.

DB: Who are some of your celebrity fans?
IB: Nathalie Portman, Woody Allen, Heather Mills, Eva Mendes, Charlize Theron.

Ando Feutre

Ando Feutre

DB: How has fashion affected the green movement, and vice versa?
IB: Fashion has placed pressure on green to be more sexy (Kelly Green?), the green movement has asked fashion to be more responsible….weird question for me…been doing this since 1997…

DB: Does Matt & Nat have an official position on using skins, feathers, and fur? If so, why?
IB: matt & nat doesn’t….but I do…which inevitably effects matt & nat, it’s a fashion forward line of accessories that will always be vegan…

Rohe

Rohe

DB: What is your biggest concern with the fashion industry right now?
IB: The extremes of ethical fashion and unethical fashion and the lack of lines in between.

DB: Are there any accessories you want to make that you haven’t been able to include in a collection yet?
IB: Belts, soon!

Matt and Nat Mens Bags

Kahn Carton

DB: Why should every fashionisto & fashionista care where their accessories come from, what they’re made of, and who makes them?
IB: Because we vote with our dollars, whether we like it or not.

DB: What’s the worst thing that’s happened to you as a designer? And the best?
IB: Took many years before matt & nat got noticed – best and worst thing.
DB: Fill in the blanks: Every single person should make a dramatic change in their life at least once a year. Cool is doing it before it’s done, Chic is not in my vocabulary.

Bulleri

Bueller

Etro's Regency Gypsy-Cowboy

In one year, I expect all of you Discerning Brutes to be pillaging the thrift stores to put this look together. Etro, known for a somewhat green approach to fashion (aside from the leather and silk in this collection) has hit a high-note with this eccentric, sexy, and gorgeous spring 2009 menswear collection.

Mixed paisley prints and stripes decorate nearly everything, scarves & ties as cumberbuns & belts – comfy and borderline-psychadelic. Offset these loose serenities with classic shoes, structured tailoring, and a fedora or wide-brim hat. This entire look can be completely achieved at a thrift store apart from non-leather shoes and maybe the hat…

HOW TO GREEN THIS LOOK:

For good non-leather shoes, check out these styles:

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LOOK FOR A WIDE-BRIM FEDORA (These are Hemp!)

Men's Borsalino Hemp Fedora - The Sicilian Fedora

BAG:

Matt&Nat

Matt and Nat Mens Bags

Matt & Nat Mens' Bags

THREADS:

Every thrift store has more paisley, more ties, and more scarves than they know what to do with. Find a fitted pair of striped poly or cotton slacks, a well tailored jacket, and go nuts with the rest!