The Discerning Brute: fashion, food & etiquette for the ethically handsome man » wool

Suit Yourself & Pick your Poison

joshuakatcher — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 06:00:40 +0000

In the perpetual search for cruelty-free, cold-weather suits with a small carbon footprint (livestock-free), it's rare to find really stylish options. Alter's Men Shop has just received these Shades of Grey Suiting suits for $310- tailored, classic and modern in a poly-rayon blend. ....... ............. The perfect suit? Pick Your Poison: ♣ It's no secret that making Rayon is a polluting process involving lye (NaOH) and and carbon disulfide, unless contained in a closed-loop system like TENCEL ® Lyocell, where 99.5% of the chemicals are contained and recycled again and again in the factory. It's also no secret that Polyester is a petroleum product (PET) - the smae material used to make plastic water bottles. The process itself, in which polymers are synthesized at 270º Fahrenheit, a lot of polluting off-gassing occurs (even when using recycled polyesters). There are less damaging polys like Eco-Intelligent^® Polyester, a registered trademark of Victor Innovatex, is a polyester that’s made using a more eco-friendly process, and using more eco-friendly ingredients. This has resulted in a polyester that can be recycled indefinitely, without losing it’s original quality. . . ♣ A common assumption is that wool, because it's "natural" is a more eco-friendly option for something like suiting. But when we look at the staggering impact that livestock like sheep have on ecosystems and climate change, the fabric itself can not be isolated as a benign product. Until we figure out a way to grow hair without a living, feeling, grazing land-mammal attached to it, the wool comes with the sheep. According to the United Nations: "The world’s sheep population is just over one billion – one for roughly every six people. Nearly half are in Asia and the Near and Middle East. Sheep are the species with the highest number of recorded breeds – contributing 25 percent to the global total for mammals." (source). The impact that livestock (including sheep) has on the environment, from the United Nations Food & Agricultural Organization is enormous: http://www.fao.org/newsroom/en/news/2006/1000448/index.html. In New Zealand, which has approx. 48 million sheep, methane emissions from enteric fermentation, coming mostly from sheep, constitute almost 50% of the nation's total greenhouse gas emissions. (source). Then there is the ethical implications of raising sheep for wool: Live Export & Ultra-Fine Wool production. Thankfully, mulesing - a barbaric practice is being phased out. I hope this provides some clarity in the desire to avoid using any wool for any reason. ♣ The most sustainable option is to purchase a vintage/thrift suit and bring it to a tailor to have it adjusted and modernized to fit you and your style. This may also be the most affordable option. ♣ All things considered, if buying a new suit, I'd still opt for a poly-rayon suit for cold weather (organic cotton just won't cut it for cold climates). But fear not -The Discerning Brute and Brave GentleMan will soon be making our own line of sustainable, warm, and modern tailored suits that are fairly-made, sustainable, and cruelty-free! Stay tuned...

GLOBEWOOLWARMING

joshuakatcher — Sat, 03 Jul 2010 23:54:58 +0000

I designed this as the first ad in a series about the impact of animal-based textiles on the environment. It's a bit of a reality check for the eco-fashion crowd. See below for the sources on these facts. Many people understandably ask, "Ok, I get not wanting to sell fur or leather, but what’s wrong with wool? Isn’t it just a haircut? Answer: I wish! Momma nature led many animals to evolve in the perfect design when it comes to staying warm and dry in the elements, so it’s no surprise that humans who lack that body-hair want to wear it themselves. Many consider wool sustainable because it’s a ‘natural’ product. But, shockingly, wool production is one of the leading causes of greenhouse gas emissions, water pollution, land erosion, and animal cruelty:

According to the United Nations, “The world’s sheep population is just over one billion – one for roughly every six people. Nearly half are in Asia and the Near and Middle East. Sheep are the species with the highest number of recorded breeds – contributing 25 percent to the global total for mammals.” (source)
The impact that livestock (including sheep) has on the environment, is by no means trivial, according to the United Nations Food & Agricultural Organization: http://www.fao.org/newsroom/en/news/2006/1000448/index.html
One study has shown that in New Zealand, which has approximately 48 million sheep, methane emissions from enteric fermentation, coming mostly from sheep, constitute almost 50% of the nation’s total greenhouse gas emissions. Most scientists acknowledge that this has a significant effect on climate change. Combine that with erosion, water pollution, resource needs like water, graze land, processing needs, etc., and wool starts to appear a lot less sustainable than we’d like to think. http://www.mfe.govt.nz/publications/climate/greenhouse-gas-inventory-2010-snapshot/index.html
On the Cruel Australian Live Export of Sheep: http://liveexport-indefensible.com/facts/issues.php
On Ultra-Fine Wool production: http://www.animalsaustralia.org/issues/ultra_fine_wool.php

From an ecological and ethical perspective, I hope this provides some clarity as to Brave GentleMan’s and others’ desire to avoid using any wool for any reason.

Olympic Shame, Vancouver Goes Veg & Loomstate Sale

joshuakatcher — Fri, 19 Feb 2010 17:52:19 +0000

The organic cotton line Loomstate is having a sale on GILT GROUPE today (up to 70% off retail) You must have an invite to partake. And now you do! We have to admit though, we are little disappointed to see that Loomstate, one of our favorite lines, has started using lambswool. Boo! It always boggles our minds how "green" designers seem to ignore the fact that livestock production (yes, including sheep and lamb) is the single greatest cause of environmental devastation. Lambswool is a very profitable byproduct of the meat industry, yet there are so many amazing alternatives like banana silk, soy yarn, bamboo yarn, corn fiber yarn and more! It's just lazy (not to mention ecologically hazardous and cruel) to keep using animal fibers. Stick to Loomstate's organic cotton in this sale! Vancouver is offering veggie dogs and veg chili to athletes and fans thanks to Olympic sponsorship from Hain Foods. "We are dedicated to the spirit of the Games and providing A Healthy Way of Life; and are very proud to showcase healthy, sustainable living at the Vancouver 2010 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games through Hain Celestial Canada's natural and organic products. Having visited many concessions during my Olympic trip, it was with great pride that I watched the spectators make the healthy choice choosing our Terra Chips and Yves Veggie Cuisine veggie dogs while cheering on all the athletes!" It's too bad that Canada is known for it's brutal baby seal slaughter. Peta has made their own official Olympic logo and pin for the olympics. "Most people would agree that there is something terribly wrong with shooting and smashing in the skulls of baby seals, yet despite international outrage, the Canadian government allows sealers to beat and skin hundreds of thousands of these gentle creatures every year. So why is Canada killing seals? The seal slaughter exists because of the overall demand for fur." Vancouver Olympic Shame: Learn more.

The Rebel Savior: April 77′s Brice Partouche

joshuakatcher — Thu, 03 Dec 2009 19:02:45 +0000

Brice Partouce has a vision. The Parisian-Jewish-punk-rocker-record-label-proprietor-fashion-designer not only makes some of the most cool and sought-after threads, but he's also reshaping the industry landscape. Throngs of rockers and hipsters seek out his signature denim, each pair endowed with a loaded guitar pick-holster, allowing the bearer to play a power-chord at moment's notice. Drawing on his adolescence as a hardcore kid, and following the guidance of his conscience, Partouche has carved out a role for himself as both rebel and savior. In an age where the "rebel look" equates the irony of supporting some of the most mainstream and problematic industry practices, a real iconoclast emerges, and he's wearing a vegan biker jacket. Discerning Brute: What's it like being a fashion designer in Paris who has ethical convictions? How does the industry respond to your values? Brice Partouche: First, I don’t consider myself as a fashion designer. I use fashion industry to show my vision, and so my ethical convictions,but I also talk about music with APRIL77®collections, and more specifically about rock n’ roll and youth movements. I was vegetarian for 13 years and recently turned vegan. Not a lot of people knows that APRIL77 is a cruelty-free label because we always have communicated on the music side but never on the “animal liberation” idea. But I think people will find out next winter when they will notice that wool has been banned from our collections. The cruelty free ethic does not fit into the fashion industry right now. But I hope a change and I really think that APRIL77® could help for a change. We are the only fahion and trendy brand that is animal friendly. I’m not saying that others ethical brands doesn ‘t exist but I’m just pointing the fact that those brands are not into the “fashion/trendy” circuit but into the eco/ethical market.

DB: That's rare, and that's brave. Speaking of cruelty-free, what inspired the "Good Guys Don't Wear Leather" line, and what shoes and boots can we expect to see in the future? We need an amazing men's lace up boot! Do you have any other accessories planned? Driving gloves? Faux leather buckle suspenders maybe?

BP: The name comes from the Minor Threat song (which is a cover song) “Good Guys Don’t Wear White” because hardcore music made my mind and my vision. We launched this line with 2 shoes (derby/cowboys boots) last year but a real leather free shoe/accessories line will be launched next year. But it has to be perfect, and good leather alternative are hard to find and to develop...

DB: Your English is so much better than my French! You also run a record label. What came first, the clothing or the records, and give us a band we should check out that New York may not be aware of yet.

BP: The clothing line came first but music inspired the collections... It’s like the chicken and the egg. Top band: Semen Sundae. It’s my band and we are serious, 10 songs in 20 min.... Really I don’t listen to new bands... I'm kind of stuck in oldies punk/hxc/Black Metal/Hard Rock...

DB: Obviously, you don't use any fur or leather. Why do you think people are so obsessed with leather and fur - and will we ever be able to move beyond them?

BP: First, leather is just like denim. Leather lives, get older.. So yes leather is beautiful. Same for fur... The problem with consumers is that they stop thinking after noticing that something is beautiful. That’s pure hypocrisy. Same with food. Meat is tasty/ good.. "Ok that’s enough...I don ‘t want to know more..." If people would have to kill by their hand the animals they are wearing, well the story would be different. Leather/fur supplier are just like butchers. And people are hiding behind them...

DB: We love the look of your wool garments, but many of us don't wear wool because of how the animals are bred, raised and treated for this purpose. Do you have any plans to make similar garments in a cruelty-free option or to discontinue the use of wool?

BP: I turned vegan 6 months ago , just when I started to work on the winter collection. It was logical to me that I should banned wool from the collection. Some people tried to change my mind or asked me to wait before doing such an important change, but I couldn’t be in harmony with myself if, as a vegan, I was producing wool. In future collections, we are replacing wool by really thick and heavy cotton. Sometimes we mixed it up with some synthetic threads just for a hairy look. We are trying as much as we can to use only natural knitting fabrics.

DB: I was recently in Paris and had an amazing experience with food. What would a perfect weekend for a vegan in Paris look like? What is your favorite places to visit for fashion, food, and entertainment?

BP: Haha, eating vegan in Paris is like being satanist in Vatican... Almost all vegetarian/vegan restaurants are owned by sects...but a good place to eat is Le Potager Du Marais on rue Rambuteau in the 3rd. I will pass on the fashion/entertainment question...But, the best bar/pub is Stolly’s , awesome music and cool people.

DB: When will the online boutique be open for business? Where can people outside of Paris purchase your clothing?

BP: Soon a new website...

DB: What would the world be like if you were in charge?

BP: A vegan reich :-)

Check out some of our Fav April 77 Records Garments

Deer Control Suit & Jil Sander Suit

joshuakatcher — Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:50:51 +0000

A lot of you guys ask about wool-free suits. Jil Sander surprised us with a few cruelty-free options recently, featured on GILT Groupe. The wool-free suit below features textured woven cotton on a single breasted two button jacket with notch lapel, a center vent at back and non-functional button cuffs. Fully lined in cupro with three pockets. Jil Sander's Nylon Marble Blazer and Cupro/Nylon Iridescent Blazer are also cruelty free and quite stunning. GILT is an invite only site (click here to join). They do often feature organic brands like Loomstate and Edun, but also occasionally feature designers who continue to use fur, so take a moment to kindly ask them to stop featuring these items from designers like Michael Kors and tell them we want more cruelty-free stuff. Our pals at Friends of Animals and CARE have a suit of their own. They are suing to stop National Park Service deer control plans. Deer "control" is always a tumultuous topic, and this case really highlights the opposing forces. I always find it amusing that it is the wildlife that is the problem, as opposed to our ever-expanding, ever-"developing" of wild areas:

"The deer are not responsible for the park’s manicured lawns, for deliberate removals of natural vegetation over the years and the planting of non-native foliage, for a lack of respect for the animals comprising the park’s natural food web, for paved areas and buildings, for more than a million visitors per year, vehicle exhaust, or for the constant presence of (often speeding) cars. These factors must be addressed directly to address the pressure on the deer, Friends of Animals and CARE have urged." - FOA

What do you think about deer "control" and other ideas we have about "pests"?

DBTV: Project Runway's TIM GUNN

TheDiscerningBrute — Wed, 18 Feb 2009 20:50:49 +0000

Fashion Week is upon us in New York City! I had a few moments to catch up with Tim Gunn at the Bryant Park Hotel for his conference with PETA on the fur industry. Tim is an outspoken advocate for animals used in the fashion industry, and calls for responsibility and accountability from every single person using or wearing the skin of an animal - whether it is fur, leather, or wool. In the sea of indifference to animals that is Fashion Week, it is amazing to have someone with such clout eloquently speaking the simple truth that fur no longer represents luxury - instead it is an outdated and egregious symbol of ignorance. Watch Tim's Video for PETA:

Fresh Friday Finds

TheDiscerningBrute — Fri, 21 Nov 2008 16:42:45 +0000

1. BUY NOTHING DAY is a holiday that is more important than Thanksgiving, Christmas, Kwanzaa, Ramadan, Hanukkah, and yes - even New Years? Why, you ask? Because the integrity of the ecosystems we depend upon for survival hang in the balance. Consumption - something Americans are better at than the rest of the world, requires production. Production requires resource extraction. Every product has to be dug up, ripped out, cut down, or gathered - it doesn't magically appear! Even greenwashed products, unless totally recycled or thrift, requires a piece of the landbase in some form. So on November 28th, let freedom ring - exercise your right NOT to go shopping! 2. A Breaking Investigation Reveals That Turkeys Were Stomped, Punched, and Kicked. With Thanksgiving just around the corner, do you really need to condone this by choosing to eat a big, dead bird? Really? What can you do about it? Don't pay the callous people who do this by purchasingthe body of a turkey this Thanksgiving. Instead - adopt a turkey! 3. Like the Peacoat look, but hate the wool? If you need a really warm, non-wool peacoat, check this out from VeganStore. $199

4. Emilie at The Conscious Kitchen has prepared some mouth-watering thanksgiving fare. If you need inspiration, she is your go-to gal for sure!

5. Where Does Donna Karan Stand On Fur? I love the new ad campaign from PETA that is being wheatpasted up all around Donna's office and apartment.

Coats for Blokes

TheDiscerningBrute — Thu, 20 Nov 2008 04:47:55 +0000

Jack Frost would have bit my big Jew-nose really hard this morning had I not had a cozy winter coat. It's not so easy to find really warm, well-built winter coats that aren't filled with feathers, lined with leather, made of wool, or trimmed with fur. My first recommendation is to check out your local thrift store. My second recommendation are this organic, fair-trade, and vegan coat: If those don't work out, here are some awesome, animal-friendly coats to keep the chill out! I have these broken into three categories: Money to Burn, Big Spender, & Average Joe. MONEY TO BURN BIG SPENDER AVERAGE JOE And lastly, don't forget to stand around on the porch in your organic thermal undies!